The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

I reckon Ken's got it right about a new door.
As he says The earlier vans were indirect injection DW8's and XUD's I believe
and nominally 1.9D or 1.9TD.

HDI stand for High speed Direct Injection
and usually 2.0 litre (actually 1997cc) DW10s

It can be confusing
the guy I bought my van off said it was 16Valve
A year later I still have no idea whether it has or not
but don't really care as long as it's reliable and economical.

His previous posts mention a 2012

I didn't know the MK1's had a tailgate option.

I don't know, what model is it?
If my guess is correct and torque control has failed, the engine can twist on its mountings
under load putting strain on things like the exhaust, upper engine mounts and any pipe work running from the
engine to other fixed parts of the engine bay.

If I'm right then it would probably be unwise and expensive to ignore

Just had all the welding and drive shaft gaiter done
£179
Not bad at all eh?
I'm dead lucky to have an indy mechanic a 3 minute walk away to do all the stuff
I cba to myself nowadays.
This is the guy who charged me  £40 when the MOT garage quoted me £210
for a welding job on my old Galaxy.

I know I have a later van but unless it's very very quiet, there is no relay between the light switch and lights
and have seen no sign of one in any of the diagrams I have seen so far.
They all show the same system.
Power in to the switch on cable BB4 then power out to fuses 12 and 13 via the VV cable

In the last image
using a meter set for continuity and a wire between pin 2 (cable v13W) of 2630 ( LH tail light)
and the fuse should show continuity and prove the fuse (f13) is
definitely the one supplying and protecting the circuit

then the same test between pin2 ( cable V12C) at 2635 and hopefully F12

This will confirm things for the avoidance of doubt
so your idea of rigging a cable between the switch and fuse supply
should hopefully work but I'd suggest checking any connection problems first
and watch for smoke !!   

If it were mine and just to satisfy myself
I'd probably get a couple of meters of cable for a flying lead and do a continuity test
between the V12 and V13 terminals on the tail lights and the fuse sockets with fuse removed

if you do get continuity from the light to the fuse, at least it will confirm you're tracking in the right area
and then find out why there is no power

Well it's in the shop today and I hope he doesn't find too much rot to fix
the failure sheet mentioned a few other place that need attention
figners crossed

Those diagrams look useful, finding anything similar for my Expert is real PITA at times

I'd consider removing the step trim and probing the V12 and V13 cables
in the harness to see
if there is a voltage present when the side lights are switched on.

if there is then the fault is probably down stream
if not upstream
Downstream could be better and easier to fix as it doesn't involve digging under the
dashboard and/or engine bay.

Yes, I knew the sill was needing attention and as you say, it could have been a lot worse
the dreaded sub frames etc.
My guy says it isn't that bad and shouldn't be that bad (expensive) to do

There was bit of wittering going on, but on reflection I 'think' the issue was his dipstick probe wouldn't fit
into the tube so he tried to get the oil temp from the ecu and my ecu didn't like being probed by his gizmo
I recall him saying he will order another probe  so next time lets hope it all goes smoothly.

That looks better if a wee bit yellowish
Is this SVO or are you adding a percentage of diesel?