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Is forum clock an hour fast?
Posting this at 00:46 UK time
Edit: Looks like yes
Glad it's fixed! Goes to show sensors aren't as reliable as you'd hope. I assumed the dash lit up if the voltage was below 13.0V or something
Petrol Synergie! They must be a rare breed.
Is it the same pipe on the diesels? Plenty of scrap ones around, probably worth a check.
Failing that, don't dismiss getting it from Citroen. Some parts are outrageously priced, but others can be reasonable.
Does the Propex flue count as a chimney?
You could look for wear marks on the belt, but I'm not sure how much you'd see.
Probably the best bet is to get a volt meter for your cigarette lighter - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vehicle-Batter … 07FW9HFK//
See if it drops when the light comes on
Those voltages are exactly where I'd expect them to be. Could it be your fan belt slipping? Especially if it's cold/wet/damp
If you take out the light at the front, it's just above there
The clutch I had put in Sept/Oct past was shuddering first thing in morning but fine for rest of day after first use ....... Needless to Say it didn't shudder when returned to garage...... After only 500mls it was shuddering admitedly only a little bit when put in reverse to turn and leave Cul de Sac..... If I turned it the night before it didn't shudder at all on leaving...... No idea whats happened But somthing was obviously disturbed..... It turns out parking it facing down hill allowed Oil leaking (that wasn't there before) from top of engine to get on clutch
Sounds familiar. Mine judders a lot from cold. i assumed it was because I'm running on veg and it's struggling to push. But I do know I have a leaking crankshaft seal, which leaks right onto the flywheel.
It's a super expensive job, and it's annoying but tolerable to just live with the leak until the clutch wears out. But the clutch is still going strong =/. I'm getting tired of leaving black spots everywhere though, not to mention the constant topups, so I'm considering forking out.
MOTs are always a nervewracking time, but £117 isn't half bad, especially compared with how much a newer van would cost you, and still far from guaranteed to pass MOTs. My last one needed a wishbone/ball joint too, for a similar price. Total including the MOT came to £190 for that and a couple of part worn tyres.
I had a split on my Synergie's sills once from a rock hitting it (long story, but basically a car crashed into a wall next to my house and a bit of the wall hit my car). That needed fixing, but only because sharp edges, not structure. Think it was £120 to sort out.

The cold weather is making me notice a cold draught coming from the front of the van. Part of this has to be the plastic door panels being a nice heat exchanger with outside.
So I've bought some 4 way stretch carpet to cover them with. I'm also eventually going to do the sliding doors and some exposed metal, but I'll do the front door panels first because I can replace them if I totally balls it up!
Anyone done it before and have any tips?

From what I understand it sets it to whichever is highest between the ECU and the Dash
Parking in Manchester overnight, and knew this car park would be £4, which is great for 24 hours' city centre parking.
Get there, notice the 1.8m height limit. The Dispatch is 1.9m high. Eep.


I didn't hit the warning sign. Decided to drive in veeeery slowly.

Got away with it. Handily the van is exactly as tall as I am so if I can walk through without banging my head, so can the van.
2 MPG isn't great 
Seriously though, my 1.9D gets plenty more than 30MPG. I've seen it as low as 27 on major hilly bits, but m trip round Europe saw me getting 37MPG on average. I've got as high as 45MPG on a very flat, very straight, very 50mph motorway trip.
That said, if you don't mind the computery gubbins, the 2.0L its gonna be a much more satisfying drive.
Definitely doable. I pulled mine out and attached a cable to the mechanism that turns when you turn the key.
I'm trying to remember exactly how I did it. I think I took the door handle out and watched it as I turned the key. Tie it to the plastic loop then feed it through the door to the inside.

It's still the Pepsi Max Big one. I wonder if they'll ever stop sponsoring it.
*The* old wooden rickety one? There's like 5 of them
But yes, the Grand National is still there. The ricktiness adds to the fun
I'm a Lancastrian really, but I do fit right in with the Yorkshire folk 
I'm surprised there's one that close to BPB. £19 a night though, and I'd have needed all day parking till midnight too, so £38.
Plus I'd have to get up 10 minutes earlier 
Was due to get up at 9am to make the most the wristbands. Not being an early bird, I decided to park as close as I could so I could get more sleep in. I think I did alright 

£12.50 got me 24 hrs' parking. Not bad at all.
The live, neutral and earth are AC terms, which might be confusing things. In a car's DC system you only have positive and negative.
The way the door switch works is that there is one positive (+12V) feed, and two negative feeds - one is switched internally by pressing the light unit, and the other is switched by the door.
I only bother with one of them as I've got the door switch working differently, but on the back of my lights I see one positive and two negatives:


Looks smart, especially for its age. And amazed to see a new member not from Scotland!
Tell us a bit about the trips you've taken it on, and what you've done inside. I see a cooker on a wooden base.
How's it been mechanically, tell us of your previous woes and successes
I already have a set of alloys myself, but it might be worth letting us know the tyre size on these
Jesus, I wasn't thinking £80 new. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT … 3213272197
So glad I don't have any ECU faff in mine
beelucky52, if you need to test it, you can check for air leaks by looking for bubbles in the pipe before the pump.
If there are no bubbles, loosen one of the injectors and see if fuel is coming out.
When mine died on the Synergie (XUD9) it wasn't devastating. New pump was about £80. Fitting was fairly involved as you have to destroy the immobiliser in the pump itself, and obviously it's on the timing belt. No ECU in that one, but I assume the DW8B has the immobiliser in the pump rather than the ECU.