The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

I don't really know of anyone on here that might offer training, but you might try JohnDragonMan.  Off the top of my head, he's the only one I know of (currently) that did his own timing belt / water pump change.  He also did a bunch of youtube videos on his van conversion, from almost a complete strip down to completion.  At the very least you should watch the video about the timing belt change.  Also on a thread fairly recently, I posted a bunch of YT vids that give the basics of doing it.

I paid someone to do mine.  As far as jobs go that I am happy to do, it isn't one of them.  If it goes wrong, it is very bad.

That's kind of random, but might explain some things.  My brakes are pretty knackered.  they work and they work well, but I suspect the back brake shoes need replacing and the front brake pads are definitely low.  I also don't think the brake fluid has been changed in a long time.  It's a to-do list job.  I have front and back pads ready.  Was planning on doing the front pads tomorrow.  Back will be more of a ball ache due to needing to pop the hub off, but have all the tools for doing it.  I really want to drain the whole brake system and redo it with new fluid and maybe change the brake pipes on the front to a braided/reinforced type (if possible).  I planned to look into it next summer, but might bring it forward.

It does, thanks.  I will look at the fuses first.  I read a post you made long ago about the airbag ecu location, but do want to take the seats out at some point and strip back the floor and see what state the metal is below it and whether it needs rust proofing (or maybe more work), but its a job for a warmer/drier day than we currently have.

The patching idea I believe is originally yours.  I think you did on your Iveco to get it through MOT.  It's my last resort tbh, just for getting it through MOT.  Since the error light doesn't come on when I park on a hill or incline, it leans more towards a loose connection, or maybe water in the ecu box.  I shall do that second I think.  As water would pool at one end on a hill.

You know I wondered whether you could strap a second fast charger into the battery and when you go to an electric charging point, instead of using one, plug two in simultaneously (in parallel) to boost the amps you are pushing in.  A standard charger for electric is 60A I think (but could be 40A).  if you do an aftermarket fast charger into the battery, you might be able to double that, which might cut charge times in half.  No use on a Leaf, but might work well for say an e-NV200 or similar electric van.

I read a thread on one of the Nissan forums about a guy with an electric e-NV200 camper that went around Europe in it and at the end the total cost of fuel was about £16.  He did about 2000 miles and used Aires with free electric and Auchan supermarkets and somehow managed it for under £20.  I guess he stayed two days on the Aires, as i think on slow charge it takes around 2 days to fully recharge the battery.

I've been looking at the e-NV200 as a possible down the line replacement for my Expert.  Specifically the Voltia XL model would be my interest, but I would want more than the 40kwh battery, ideally 60kwh, which would give maybe around 240 miles.  Its a LWB with High Roof, but still not much longer than the Expert.  Too expensive for me right now, but maybe in a couple of years.

A steel cable tie would probably suffice.

Check bulbs.
Check fuses.
Check wiring with a test bulb and a brick on the brake pedal.

That should give you an insight in where to look further.

Another place with hot springs added to my wishlist.

Current favourite is Ourense in Galicia, for general mooching around, getting pissed and sitting in the many therms that litter the city.  Generally I do it when i'm trekking and use it as a stopover/chillout day, but haven't had a chance for the last couple of years due to other factors.

I have a banging noise on the back of mine.  I suspect the trampoline springs are the problem.  You go over a bump and the back end gets air.  Needs new springs and probably shocks as well.  It could also be the exhaust, but isn't the spare wheel holder on mine as I serviced and painted that when I got the van.

My odometer has never worked, but the MOT last year was about 170k, so its probably around 190k now.  It's not the end of the world if it doesn't show a value, just as long as you make a mental note to drop the oil every 6 months and check the filters.  I second that the console is absolute junk.  Mine has so many lights on at ignition.  The only one that stays on after startup is the airbag light.  I'm probably going to hack it for the MOT using one of JohnDragonMan's hacks and wire it to the battery light so it switches on with ignition and off after the vehicle starts, at least until I can be bothered to rip the front seats out and try and work out why it is actually on (probably the wiring is fkd).

I would say to you to check the rust issues on yours, especially the back two corners.  On mine the two pillar bottoms were heavily rusted.  Easiest to fix by removing the rear bumper.  They probably need replacing on mine, but I opted for Isopon and rust killer paint.  If I have this van in a couple of years I will probably need to weld some new ones on.  i think the rear airbag sensors are in those pillars as well (plastic sensor looking thing in each one).

On the 2.0 its in a royal pain in the ass place to get to.  I looked at it for refilling when i dropped my gearbox oil, but decided after reading some advice on a different forum to use the breather hole which is really easy to get to (remove the air filter box).  Obviously if topping up you won't have the luxury of just dumping fluid in to the top, willy nilly.  I couldn't work out how to get a wrench up to it with any ease.  YMMV.

Mine is fairly stealth, but not 100%.  It has the solar panel.  But it also has the spinning fan.  So I guess people don't really know what to make of it.  I have seen welfare vans in the past with panels on them, so I guess I fall in a grey area.

I looked it up a while back and its about 70k if you are a courier and drive it hard and 86k if you don't.  Either way i would get it changed, so you at least are setting a point from which to calculate the next change.  I have to get mine done in the next couple of weeks.

Oil, air and fuel filters are easy on the MK1's, although the fuel filter has two types, so have a look at the old one before you order a new one.  Oil wise its 10w40, 5w30 or 5w40.  There is a sticker under the bonnet telling you what you can put in it.  I used 5w30 A5 Fully Synthetic.

Gearbox oil is an easy one as well, it takes a square socket (you can get one from halfords for a fiver, if you don't have one) and uses 2L of 75w80 oil.  Fill it from the breather hole (below the air filter) as the filler hole is on the side in an awkward place.