The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Just be aware that the base will be unique to the seat. Think of the base as being an adapter.

Just remembered that on my 2002 1.9D there was an "engine running" relay, which is fed from the the ECU via F6 (immobiliser fuse). This will give a steady 12v.

This happened with my Focus tdf a few years ago. Air con stopped working and and it was down to the fan not working. The fan had failed due to a known wiring issue, that I had ignored. End result the engine overheated and one of the injectors started to leak causing another known fault (that ford would not admit to) ie hard carbon in the engine leading to turbo failure. That was the end of that.
Anyway fan failure was the cause of the aircon clutch not engaging.

I've had the same issue with my (supercap) dashcam. I just put it down to the cranking voltage drop. I fitted an AT41 inline timer with a delay of 20s, and that fixed it.

@Vaz if you are referring to DLA, I had a conversation with someone who works for the civil service just yesterday. She recons that they always refuse the first application, and to appeal and ask if they actually have the doctors reports.

@Oat, you are right, the unfortunate thing these days is that for most corporations your time has no value. Complaining assertively and persistently used to get results. Now most of the responses rarely acknowledge the issue at hand. So it can take months to sort out really minor issues.

Here is my BSI fusebox for Expert 2015 130bhp DW10CD
There seems to be a few versions

Anyway, F8 would be worth a look, if you can get it out

F1 15A - rear wiper
F3 5A - airbag ECU
F4 10A - Steering angle sensor (COM 2003) - ESP dual sensor - rear wiper relay - diagnostic socket - clutch switch - non automatic air conditioning control panel - manual headlamp height corrector - particle filter pump
F5 30A - Electric rear view mirrors - passenger window motor
F6 30A - Driver's sequential window supply - front passenger's sequential window supply
F7 5A - Spotlamps R2 - Spotlamps R3 - interior lamp R3 (private vehicle) - glovebox lamp - Spotlamps R1
F8 20A - Multifunction display - antitheft alarm siren - audio system - CD changer - telephone system
F9 30A - Cigar lighter - diagnostic socket
F10 15A - Rear height corrector (CAAR) - steering wheel switch module (Com 2005) - instrument panel
F11 15A - Diagnostic socket - ignition switch
F12 15A - Hands free kit - airbag ECU - parking assistance ECU
F13 5A - Fusebox - trailer relay unit
F14 15A - Rain sensor - rear additional air conditioning - automatic air conditioning - instrument panel
F17 10A - Heated rear screen - Deicing rear view mirrors

Hi Jason, the witter towbar was already fitted, but I've done a couple of these before and the mechanical bit is straight forward. The electrics are always tricky because the manufacturers always want to sell a proprietary overpriced cable. I always used a bypass relay and a multimeter to locate the wires for the lights.

Again 5g/l soot is the trigger for regen

By the time you see that the carpets are wet, the whole foam underside of the rubber floor mat will be soaking wet.
When this happened to me I propped the rubber up as best as I could - I think that you need to practically dismantle the van to get the mat out.  Initially I used a blow heater, but eventually moved on to a dehumidifier. I think it took about a week to dry out.

Have you checked when the regens are taking place. The trigger to kick the process off is when the calculated soot reaches 5g/l. The backup is to measure the differential pressure across the exhaust. When it hits some predefined level the regen is kicked off. If it is doing this all the time then it could indicate a clogged up exhaust.

There won't be one. The ECU decides based on the coolant temperature, which will then switch the fan relays.