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Hmm............ Sex, drugs and cheap car parts eh?
Shut up and take my money!
While its quite possible, I wouldn't pay for those instructions
as the whole ad has the whiff of snake oil to me and the vehicle in that vid isnt a MK1
Is it doable? yes of course! if money's no object we can start tomorrow.
That's interesting to know
I have a black box too, but apart from remote central locking no working alarm
I do have the wee red led on the dash which flashes when the engine is off, locked or not
One issue that exists and I haven't looked into yet is
when the van is locked and I unlock the door with a key not remote, there is a constant clicking
under the dash which has to be a relay.
I know it had a working alarm at one point as I see the sounder in the engine bay
I may try and disconnect the Texalarm box at some point to see if I can remove it and fit an alarm
I have control over
If my remote fails I'll be driven mad by the bloody clicking!
Grey is often unburnt or poorly combusted fuel which you may get a bit of on initial startup
on older engines, but should clear quickly
if it persists it could be a leaky injector.
Have you or anyone else put WVO ( waste vegetable oil) in it?
I get why folk want to use it but it has a higher viscosity ( thicker) than deisel
and cause problems on some engines unless it's pre treated or pre heated.
As for additives I sometimes put some Millers Ecomax in my deisel tank which is claimed to increase Cetane rating,
improve combustion and clean the fuel system.
Some people rate it highly but I've never really done any empirical testing to see for myself so all I can say is
it doesn't seem to have done any harm.
What engine do you have?
1.9D, 1.9 TD or 2.0TD? I'm assuming one of the first two
Give it an Italian tune up, that'll sort it
Thats the standard Clarion type that came with the van
I threw mine away.
Economic alternatives:
Sony DSX-A410BT (no CD deck)
I had one in my old Galaxy and was very happy with it
wish I kept it, but you can find them pretty cheap second hand
Seen them for £85 new and £40 SH on Ebay
For the van I bought a SH Sony MEX-BT3800U Xplod ( has CD deck) for £25 still in the box with cables
its mint and works excellently!
Both have BT and USB aux in etc but you may need an ISO converter cable which is easily/cheaply sourced
If you want to go dead cheap and cheerful how does £8.99 suit you?
I bought this one for the portable jump pack/charging station/media player type thing I made for working outside and in the van with ignition off.

Dead cheap, but it has Bluetooth, 2x usb A tf card slot and remote and works well
probably not that powerful, say 2 channel x 30W and doesn't have MW so I cant listen to the footy on Radio 5 sadly, but not at all bad for £8.99 if yer skint.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196311505159
I just entered the reg into the gubment's CAZ page and my 2006 2.0 16v HDI
has to pay in all CAZ zones in England bar Portsmouth.
This did not come as a surprise, who would expect our old bangers to get a free pass?
Newcastle/Gateshead is indeed the dearest at £12.50, Bristol by comparison is £9/day
I rarely go into town anyway but my bike and scoots are exempt so could use one of those
I'm lucky in that my AC works fortunately but one quick observation come to mind for starters
and that's checking for clutch operation on the pump when you push the AC button in.
I can actually hear it on mine but if you get a look inside the engine bay you should be able to see it engage
near the pulley when the button is pressed.
My old Galaxy had an AC problem where the clutch wasn't engaging due to a faulty pressure sensor
I obviously cant say what your problem is, but its worth checking if only to tick it off on the list.
As you've a 1.9 it must be the D or TD so bearing in mind the symptoms
I'll guess you may have a glow plug or glow plug relay problem.
I bet there's some folk driving behind you who out of the blue, suddenly get a hankering for a bag of chips

I just had a subframe fitted on mine. measured up all the hole spacing and brackets, etc and all looked good.
Unfortunately the cross member (the bit of the sub frame that the streering rack bolts to) has a slightly different profile to my old one. The old one dropped a bit in the middle, the replacement I got raised slightly. Only about an inch different overall so it looked like it would still work.
Unfortunately when attempting to refit the rack, the pipes were fouling. This needed a couple of spacers to make some clearence...Which of course shortened the bite of the fixing bolts into the alloy of the rack...which of course led to the thread stripping!The saga is still ongoing.
Ouch!
I've had projects like that where you start out all starry eyed, enthusiastic and full of good intentions
and instead of things progressing nicely it starts to turn into a complete arse ache.
Good luck with it.
Ouch! sounds spendy
Considering the age and 36K mileage on that 1.9d lump,
the bad news is you've probably only got 20 years or 200,000 miles left in it now 
I had mine poked a while back by my local guy and was relieved when he said it looked pretty good
underneath apart from some possible sill attention needed for the next MOT which isnt too bad I suppose.
It is for me luckily as mine is currently running fine. touch wood.
All I've had to do recently is fit a new pair of wiper blades
the new heater core makes it toasty in the cab, I hardly need to run the fan
to get it comfy.
I am musing over fitting some decent LED lighting in the cargo area now its often dark and dismal
this time of year, but mostly playing with the old bike
how did you change the tank pump? do you have to drop the tank?
Welcome Heather.
Good news you're up and running again.
Considering these vans are at least 16 years old, I can well imagine contacts and connectors getting oxidised
especially in the engine bay.
That's something else for my list of stuff to check.
Have look at this thread and see what mine was like in the pic at the end of thread
Good luck getting it sorted out and let us know what happens
Just been reading up the V90 ( looks fun!) and found this page which may be of some use or interest to you
If you're anything like me you've probably already scoured the web for any and all info on what ever bike
you have, but I'll add the link just in case as it has parts catalogue and user manuals and stuff
Sorry Wingnut, hijacking your thread here
I can see how the ramp would make loading a bike easier
does it slide underneath the cab or fold up inside?
can you access the 4 hold down points if you want to use ratchet straps?
The wee scooter shown previously went in easily, the latest bigger bike was much bigger and more of a struggle.
After removing the bike I swept out the van and took some pics
so I can muse over mods to the ply partition.
Currently it makes the cab warmer and quieter especially at motorway speeds
and will stay as is.
In the warmer months or at certain times like wanting to stuff a big bike in,
I may want have it more open to make use of every inch of space.
The pink lines show where the front wheel and fairing touched up against the partition
and the bike only just went far enough in to shut the back doors.
the small bulkhead is outlined in blue and the hold down points by red spots.
Section 1 could be removed but is pretty much permanent
as is the sealed up sliding door and I see no need to touch that.
Sections 2 and 3 wont be hard to remove, just few screws really and I'm mulling over options of putting hinges or clamps on them to make then even easier and quicker
to fit and remove



it chewed itself through the engine casing making the bike dead. Probably should have done something sooner about the rattle but i did enjoy my time with the bike.
Ah yes, cam chain/tensioner neglect was the main killer on the CX/GL
when the chain wore too much or the tensioner broke, the cam chain would thrash about
chewing lumps out of the casing and put a load of alloy slurry into the oil ways.
Like this one, a mate begged me to buy his ratty old CX in 2000
yes they're ugly af and it looked rough as a bears ass but had a sweet rebuilt engine
when I test rode it I took a strange liking to it
In those days you couldn't give a CX away and I had one more for the next 20 years
and have been all over the UK on one.
Once you understood their features and possible weak points and addressed them
you had a go anywhere, any time, workhorse.
I had a few K100 beemers for touring for few years but still kept a CX
I sold my last CX in 2020 and had no intention of getting another bike
so I'm still undecided what to do with this GL.
I have a 2001 Yamaha Majesty 250 scooter now.
I got it cheap and renovated it to use as a hack and its great fun.
As requested, the old bike in my old van
They tyres were dead flat which made it a sod to get up the ramp
so today I used my home made powerpack to run the pump to inflate them.
Tomorrow a mate's going to come around to help me get it out.
Its a heavy bugger and the big fairing didn't help, we just got it in diagonally despite the partition and
by removing the rear light lens
The numberplate was already broken

I know of the tensior gadget but never had or used one.
I got my local guy to do my cam belt kit as he's very reasonable and reliable
and couldn't be be arsed to do it myself
RE tension,
there is/was a rule of thumb which involved how much you could twist the belt under tension
to give an idea of how tight/loose it was.
Its been a while since i did a cam belt and cant recall exact parameters
but as a crude example, if you could twist the belt 180 degrees it was too loose
and if you could NOT or struggled to twist it 45 degrees, it was too tight
and if you could twist it 90 degrees under tension it was about right.
I also cant recall if this was on the longer or shorter reaches of the belt.
I repeat this is a guess from vague memory
but it was something like the above
I seem to recall doing the cam belt on my old C15 1.9D XUD lump like this