Citroen Jumpy/Dispatch 1998 Rear Drum Breaks

Oscarklemo · 2025-10-07 17:34:36

Hi!

Meet Lancaster (named the white one York), my newly aquired Jumpy 1998 1,9TD. Same year and model as the first one. Got her off some bloke for €500 including a set of winter tyres.

Originally bought as a spare parts car, I realized, upon driving it home, it had AC, which York doesn't have.

Took Lancaster to the swedish MOT yesterday resulting in four remarks.

-Left beam to high (crap remark as they had the tools in the shop)
-Right headlight loose (some white plastic thingy apparently fell out from the fastener. Bought a new used headlight from the scrapper for €37,50
-Something minor
-No brakes in the rear.

From the start, I felt the parking brake was really stiff. Pulling all that I can I can hardly pull it to the first click. MOT guy said there was no breaks using the the parking break. Former owner claims the rear brakes was changed last year

Now I'm thinking it must be the wheel cylinders. As I have York I'm not i a hurry fixing Lancaster so I decided to disassemle the rear brakes. I've watched some youtube videos of how the rear brakes work but I havn't found a guide how to exactly do them on a Jumpy/Dispatch.

I've removed the wheel and tried to yank the drum off, when I started, the drum would spin, but the more I tried, the more stiff it got. Seemingly hitting the drum with a rubber mallet made the brake work. Seeing somewhere that I should loosen the hand break wire I got under the car and looked for the adjuster

Looking at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MzV7bIVdnM I thought it would be easy.

But then looking under mine it looks like this:

How do I get the drum off?

Do I need to loosen anything from the hand break and if so, how?

Thanks!

kenbw2 · 2025-10-07 22:18:15

That was exactly my story with my Peugeot 806 (the car version of our vans). Bought as a spare parts car for £89 (including alloys!). Screw it throw in for MoT. Passed! Well, looks like you're a runner now.

As it happens I've just had exactly this problem myself. https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=2173

The handbrake lever would pull, but not easily. And it wouldn't release. I could push the lever down but I could tell it wasn't disengaging properly

I had exactly the same - previously the drum would spin, but once I pull the lever it would stick and I couldn't rotate the drum by hand

The stopgap solution was to wiggle the handbrake cables - the two long ones behind that metal joining piece you have in your photo. Wiggling those eased the tension enough to loosen the brakes

The proper fix was to replace the front section of cable - it was getting stuck in the sheath that surrounds it

Oscarklemo · 2025-10-08 08:09:44

I'll get under the van later today, if this rain is stopping.

My issue at the moment is that I cannot remove the drum from the wheel.

Fiddling with the drum, I can get if off about 7mm on the upper side, this makes the drum stick and it won't turn the wheel. When pushing it back, the wheel spins.

Will try to loosen the tension on the handbreak and try to remove them again.

Also, I will try to find the adjuster wheel with a flathead screwdriver. Read somwhere it's about 1 oclock.

Having a sprained back as well, I'll probably be staying under the van for some time. :-)

Oscarklemo · 2025-10-08 12:19:54

Drum removal problem fixed.

The swedish proverb, "If force doesn't work, use more force" came in handy.

In my case, there were no catches or anything, I just hammered around the drums' rim with a screwdriver and eventually it came loose.

Edit: Also, in some videos they show that you can access the auto adjuster through the nut holes. On this car, you don't. In the Ulysses Manual, theres a hole in the drum covered by a rubber cover but I didn't have that either. If you don't have that hole, don't bother try.

Now trying to fix the two original problems.

1 Uneven break force on rear axis
2 Parking break, rear right, no function.

To fix the break force, surely all that is needed is to adjust the breaks? Maybe adjusters are broken? They seem to work fine using a flathead screwdriver, when the drums are off. But how do I measure the force?

Last edited by Oscarklemo (2025-10-08 15:07:27)

Oscarklemo · 2025-10-08 15:04:50

So, this is what i looks like, drum removed. Looks as if my shoes are in quite good condition, Service Manual says at least 1,5mm and I think its about 8mm left on mine.

Cleaned with brake cleaner and brushed everything off. Lubricated the auto adjuster and checked function.

Pulled the handbreak in the car, suddenly it went through five or six notches so obviously something I did have effect.

Pu GF behind the wheel and asked her to brake. Everything seemed to work. Started engine, telling her to push the break again and the wheel cylinder turned into a fountain. Gasked popped instantly and squirted break fluid in a nice arch.

Ordered new wheel cylinders.

Oscarklemo · 2025-10-08 15:08:25

Here's a picture of everything removed exept the wheel cylinder.

kenbw2 · 2025-10-09 23:51:28

I did those brake shoes and cylinders once in a car park on a cold wet January evening. I swore to myself I'd never do them myself again

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#1 2025-10-07 17:34:36

Citroen Jumpy/Dispatch 1998 Rear Drum Breaks

#2 2025-10-07 22:18:15

Re: Citroen Jumpy/Dispatch 1998 Rear Drum Breaks

#3 2025-10-08 08:09:44

Re: Citroen Jumpy/Dispatch 1998 Rear Drum Breaks

#4 2025-10-08 12:19:54

Re: Citroen Jumpy/Dispatch 1998 Rear Drum Breaks

#5 2025-10-08 15:04:50

Re: Citroen Jumpy/Dispatch 1998 Rear Drum Breaks

#6 2025-10-08 15:08:25

Re: Citroen Jumpy/Dispatch 1998 Rear Drum Breaks

#7 2025-10-09 23:51:28

Re: Citroen Jumpy/Dispatch 1998 Rear Drum Breaks

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