You are not logged in.
Pages: 1
I've now driven the van around one thousand miles or so and has no issues apart from one.
When started from cold the vam gas quite a pronounced diesel knock when under load and sounds like my old MK3 Transit 2.5 non turbo, once warmed up and restarted the problem stops until the engine has again cooled overnight.
After a little search on google show it to be a common problem on the DW8 engine, my problem is I'm having difficulty identifying the advance solenoid on my pump if indeed it has one. My van is a 2002 Scudo 1.9d.
Offline
What are the cams like on these vans? I had in my car a cold knocking problem and it turned out to be hydraulic cams and shit oil. The little injection holes block and no or little oil gets up onto the cams causing a knock. As the oil heats it thins and start to lube the cams. Go for the cheap option first, oil filter change.
Offline
After a few hundred miles of only using Shell V Power Diesel, some injector cleaner and adding a little 2 stroke engine oil to the tank I no longer have any diesel knock, could be coincidence I know but fingers crossed its sorted.
Offline
After changing my alternator I suddenly had engine knock, I changed the oil and filter, still knocking hot or cold. After hours of searching online it looks like the advance solenoid. I took it out tested it to be 13ohms and it clicks when I give it 12v. A new one is on the way. I'll post again if that fixes the problem.
Offline
diesel knock can also be caused by EGR issued.. always worth checking!
- JohnDragonMan
Notice: I have the tendency to void warranties, blow fuses, cause fires, and other fun stuff.
Words of wisdom: Internally rust proof the sills and subframe! both skins!!. There's always user serviceable parts inside. "Oh that shouldn't have happened".
My 2005 Dispatch Camper Project
Offline
Well, I just changed the advance solenoid nothing changed, so egr you say, I read somewhere that it could be the ecu....... I never go to a garage but this time I might have to, unless there is a way to bybass the egr that would stop this knocking?
Offline
Offline
My previous 1.9D used to occasionally knock badly, mainly when accelerating hard. Just for a moment, then be fine again.
It got gradually more frequent. Eventually I discovered, by accident, that grabbing the wiring loom along the front of the engine and giving it a shake would stop it for a few weeks.
I traced in the end to a bad connection from the lift sensor in number 4 injector - gearbox end. Wire runs from the injector and plugs into the loom down by the fuel filter somewhere. Cleaned plug and socket, fixed!
Offline
Gonna try that tonight, just after I changed the alternator, I could mice the wires around and get it to stop for a few seconds, then read all about this advance solenoid........ I think you're probably right!!!!! I'll let you know
Offline
Well, after a lot of wire shaking, connector cleaning, draining about a liter of oil from the air filter buffer thing and generally cleaning and wiggling things I got the knocking to stop, only to get the dreaded white smoke pouring out the back. Did some more jiggling and the knocking came back. Was looking for the camshaft sensor but have no idea where it is....... This might go on for a while. If anyone has photos of the top dead centre sensor in situ that would be useful, maybe, hopefully
Offline
A couple of thoughts from what I remember of this.
First, if the injector sensor is unplugged, it will knock and make white smoke. So if it makes no difference if it's connected or not, that's a flag. Connections all through the loom, into the box in the wing? Clean and check earth points.
Second, establish it's not egr/air filter related by running with both pipes disconnected at the egr valve. If it still knocks, not the problem.
Also, check the flywheel sensor (crank position) down on the bellhousing. I once had one smashed off by a ball bearing (from the thrust bearing) and it knocked like hell. Cheap part though.
Hope this helps.
Offline
I tried to take a pic of the flywheel sensor for you, but can't see it without taking loads of stuff off.
Look here: https://www.406oc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=16467
It's number 5.
Offline
Ok, I'm back at it. Bought the crankshaft sensor but it was the wrong one, while the original was off though I checked the resistance and it seemed to be fine, 400ohms. When disconnected I get white smoke. So thinking now that it's the camshaft sensor as I have a code for that but cant for the life of me find any info about it online for the expert. Any and all suggestions welcome.
I also did an egr bypass and that didnt help
Last edited by Dafunk (2021-02-17 18:08:27)
Offline
First, if the injector sensor is unplugged, it will knock and make white smoke. So if it makes no difference if it's connected or not, that's a flag. Connections all through the loom, into the box in the wing? Clean and check earth points.
It's one or the other knocking or white smoke ..... I've checked the cables to the best of my ability but once they go in the loom I'm lost. I just test to make sure theres no short.
Offline
Hey guys, just an update on the situation, after looking at the electrical schematics I decided to test lots of wires. I found that the needle lift sensor had an open circuit. I ripped apart the loom and found the culprits, just above the alternator that I changed when the problem started. She seems to run even smoother now after it sounding like a tractor for months. Happy chappy now
Offline
Great news, glad it's sorted!
Offline
Pages: 1