The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

So last Friday while driving home my Expert HDI with DW10 engine started making a Massive knocking sound, stopped on the shoulder and called for a flatbed, the sound is just absurd.
Took a video of it today.

The details.
In December the cam belt cogged over about 3-4 teeth due to ice formed under the cam cover. I had used the van for about a week while -15C and snowing, some of the water melted on the windscreen, ran down in the engine bay and formed some massive ice cakes there. On the Friday I drove home, just after starting the engine made a odd "jump", I stopped and checked and found nothing, I did not turn the engine off. Stopped at the local supermarket at home, when I came out the engine would not start.
So after diagnosing it I found the cam belt had cogged over.
Not found the time to fix it so its been sitting till last week.
Changed the cam belt, water pump, timed the engine, checked the sensors for cam chaft etc. All good. New multi belt. Did an oil service, fuel filter, the whole kit.
Engine ran fin, bit of noice from the lifters or injectors, as before so nothing new.
Drove it for 2-3 days, about 70-90 km or so, drove as normal and felt nothing odd, if anything is was running better than before.

Then last Friday while driving home at around 100km/h the sound and shaking started. Stopped and got a flat bed to take me home.

It starts as normal, and will keep running, but listening to it one really want to turn it off as soon as possible!

Been googleing, reading and checking old peugeot/citron videon and are now thinking either an injector that leaks, cousing early ignition. Or a rocker arm broken so that an exhause valve does not open making the whole combustion cycle go out in the intake.

Have not had the time to open the valve cover or try to get the injectors out.

Anyone has any idéa or seen this before??

Anyone that know what the vacuum level should be on a DW10 engine?

/Johan

So I have had this van for a good 6 months now and fixed quite a few things. It now runs and drives perfect, up until Thursday...
The engine has been replaced by the previous owner, a mechanic as Peugeot that rebuilt needed parts.
And just before I bought it they replaced the gauge cluster as the temperature gauge would not go past 70C. I got the old, broken unit with the car.

I know its not an uncommon problems on the gauge clusters for the fuel and temperature gauge to fail.

After some time I noticed that the fuel gauge did not always work if the tank was more than half full, it then shows an empty tank.

So, I took the gauge cluster from my donor car, this worked fine, all gauges working as they should.
But after some time the problem came back, have to be the fuel sender or a bad connector. Hey, now big problem, I can live without a fuel reading for when the tank is full..

Then last Thursday the engine cut out after driving for 1-2min, the gauge cluster was black, not even the LCD was showing anything. Few seconds later it all came back, costed for a bit, turned the ignition off, not all the way to lock up the steering, turned it back on and cranked the engine and everything started up again. Was on the motorway when this happened so stopped and checked if everything was working, no problems, stopped, started, all ok.

On Friday we had a massive heat wave, not had the car with that high temperatures and the temperature gauge went up to around 100C instead of hovering around 95C as it normally does. Stopped, checked the engine, found that the fan was not running but the engine did not feel over warm.
So drove on carefully, all seamed ok apart from the temperature gauge showing around 100C.

So let the car cool down a bit, and went to work on it.
Before starting the engine I noticed that the temperature gauge was not resting on its peg to the left, instead it was at 5 o clock, odd.
Turned the ignition, the needle moved to its starting position, and then up to 90-100C. Started the engine, and it stayed there. Turned it off, and it went back to rest on the peg.
Did this a few times, and every now and then when turning the engine off the needle would swing to the right and rest at about 5 o clock.
At one time the RPM gauge did not go down to 0, it rested at around 500rpm...

So I swapped the gauge cluster to another one. And presto everything worked.
My conclusion was that it had to have been the gauge cluster that died there on Thursday and that killed the engine, on Friday it was just showing the wrong temperature all along.
The gauge cluster installed comes from my donor, a car I know was working fine.

So drove Sunday and some now on Monday. And now on Monday afternoon when I turned the engine off, the temperature gauge rotated clock vice to about 5 o clock...
It shows the correct temperature. But sometimes when I turn the engine off it rotates to 5 o clock instead of resting on the peg.

Having both of these clusters behave the same tells me something else is going on....

Anyone have any idéas?? Anything I could check??

Sorry for the long post :-)

I need to replace my CV boot, and later my clutch. For this I need to get the drive shaft out of the hub, and for this undo the nut holding it in place.

I got a 35mm impact socket that fits, but so far I have not managed to make the nut budge, it's stuck good.
I,ve tried with a 1m tube to get some leverage, but that did not help.

A friend has a Milwaukee impact rated at 2300nM, that should do it, but to use it I need to buy adapters since the machine is 1" and the socket is 1/2", those adapters are not cheep.

Any suggestions, tricks or tips??

I just got a new Expert, 2006 year, and the leaver for the air recirculation is broken off. I have repaired these units before but have run out of parts now.

Anyone know if these can be bought somewhere?
Or has anyone tried making a replacement part? I'm thinking of making a mould and melting some cans... Or maybe 3D print a part.

Suggestions?