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AlvyLad wrote:Thanks for clearing up about wishbone quality and makes, as indeed those chinesium ones end up costing double, tipple or even more in a long run
Thanks for the info. I looked at Autodoc (anyone know if they're any good/reliable?), and Monroe, Meyle wishbomes are about £70 and Lemforder are around £98.
Not THAT much of an components quality expert to be clear on every brand, especially, when often them automotive parts are made to order by the same factories and assembled with different components in a different packaging - "name"- brand on them.
All I've learned is that the chinesium ones are rubbish, and I knew "FAI" is the same in suspension as "Valeo" in some electric components, used as OEM components by all Citroen, Fiat, Peugeot assembly makers.
https://faiauto.com/ bit like Bosch, but smaller, in the other words.
I have an odb reader and link it to my android head unit. Can leave it on dashboard mode for revs and speed etc. Speed displayed isnt offset for the usual 2 mph they put on the speedometer so assuming wheels and tyres are correct, it's the real speed.
Which app is it again?
Those engines (any) as a matter of fact are designed and tested to operate in in -20°C - +45°C. Thermostat temperature is only the part of temperature management, there's also the shape and positioning of hotter and colder parts of the engine, oil does the other main cooling- circulation- (lubrication) funcion.
As for the expectation to change coolant temperature to have an effect on diesel "ignition" - hardly, if anything cooling the air intake (making it denser- bigger volume) perhaps could make an impact, but we are talking about 5° degrees change out of 65° operating temperature, never mind other parameters compensating itself to minimise it anyway.
Would lowering coolant temperature make engine more efficient ("work better") - not really
Would increasing coolant temperature make engine work better, more efficient? - not at all, as it wouldn't have no measurable impact on fuel ignition temperature. If anything you would increase a chance for a fluid to boil up at the points where it is getting much hotter, than thermostat housing is.
That applies to all internal combustion engines... at least most off the liquid cooled ones...
Or, as someone on here said : "aren't broke - don't fix it" or "(keep on) fixing it until broke" 
Well, that could have been a solution, but the sound from the engine is nerve wracking when the solenoid is disconnected. It has been working fine for a while now, but I still don’t know how it works. And when it comes back…
Couple of things I've noticed:
It is when solenoid isn't working, you get engine rattling, not other way round, hence disconnecting permanently isn't a option.
You squarely blame solenoid, even it is operated electrically (as all electric valves (solenoids) are), unfortunately I just can't help you with, but to suggest investigating further as for wiring- connections and from as much as I understand injection system, it works by interrupting pressure (keep it "primed") for the fuel to be injected at the correct time, correct cylinder.
(definition and funcion of solenoid)
http://www.solenoids-coils.com/what-is-a-solenoid/
Edit
I meant to say pump solenoid is operated like injectors- (solenoids) electrically
I have had a workig rev counter on my phone with a torque app and a blue tooth eml327 in obd port
Mate, I'd love linkies to apps you are using please?
(tried x4 off, either don't connect at all or want money for any functionality)
Thanks!
Just to add my $0.02ct
as per everyone talking over the quality... because, just had to order the new one, as per garage "pre-check" for a forthcoming MOT (and obviously now need be replaced one)
From the start: about 3 years ago, got one from EuroCarParts, that was near £80, but not the £180 one, now it's been making little bit of clinking-clanking already
Asked mechanic to have quick browse over, as MOT's are booked 2 weeks in advance and only by luck managed to find a spot for Wed... he just sat in the van to get on to ramp- CLANK!- yeap, he goes- need that... So, bit of browse around and EurCP's don't even have one in stock, GSF's one is £79, whilst all sorts on evilBay are starting from £35 or pair for £60, including "well written about make" ones.
Bit of a smooth chatting to a mechanic, he'll replace it on Tue and what to get, I went with what you guys recommended, ordered one for £50.10 inc guaranteed delivery before Tue PM, so, I swear, it's my Hollywood looks, but everything might, just fit in a place.
https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/chea … de/FASS648
This (FAI wishbone) should be fitted, next day (Wed) my old slag of a van get MOT (fingers crossed) and I shall be happy, as Larry
Thanks for clearing up about wishbone quality and makes, as indeed those chinesium ones end up costing double, tipple or even more in a long run
@Eileen2006 How is it going, any updates?
Was near 100% certain, that spring on a door was efficient enough to clear natural curve for it to be "catchy" , so the door wouldn't open completely in a traffic etc.
If anything, i'd try to see if all there is not bent and moving freely, grease some pivoting friction points of the spring....
Hi all,
Sorry for jumping on a potentially 'forgotten' thread but got an issue.
I've recently purchased a Citroen C15 van and I'm having issues with excessive white smoke on start up which doesn't seem to be clearing for longer periods of time. It's had an engine change in the past from the original 1.7xud to what I believe is a DW8 engine. Read up through this entire thread and wonder if this EGR sh!te is causing issues. My EGR has only one vacuum connection which has a cotton/fabric covering on it which connects to itself. I have no other hoses connected to it and can't see any hidden away, nor do I have the valve which from photos on here is located near the coolant header tank. My worry is that from Griffins description I have a DW8 engine but my EGR has a green cap which stated previously belong to the DW8B I believe? I've cleaned the EGR and inlet (plastic tubes) as these were brimmed with coking/sooty debris. Any help is apprecicated! Cheers
Couple of pictures would've helped to help you
Just isolate it, warm up engine couple of times to be sure all is as closed or as open it's meant to be (have normal air intake and don't bother exhaust gas) with pliers, before committing to a proper closure with bolts.
Scudiro wrote:Happened in my van too,.
Now the winter is looming though, I want to get both blowers back to working. Being as there was no issue with speed control on the old blower, I thought I’d just swap over the resistor from this one to the new blower in the van – bingo! we had variable speed back again so it was definitely the resistor at fault. Unfortunately the fix only lasted for a day, then the old resistor must have blown as well because the blower went back on full speed all the time…so I’ve had to pull the plug again. I’m wondering if there is now something up with the newer blower motor causing it to draw too much current maybe, and keep blowing resistors. So my next move is to refit the original blower after a refurb, with another resistor of course. Has anyone on here been successful at refurbing these motors? Mine deffo looks like it needs new brushes as well as the bearings sorting or just lubing. Does anyone know a good source for these brushes or even just what size they are?
Even replacing the blower motor (w resistor) doesn't necessarily mean it is solved (as happened in my case), down to the resistor going "funny" it typically melts anything it can before fuse would go... wiring, sliders, relays etc, etc
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1645
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … php?id=239
if you in to in detail things (not a repair, but modernisation topic (briddy good BTW))
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1080
@vaz2121
Huh, since my hybridisation ("installing" a tablet) I wonder, if I should get ODB reader (manager), that would be bluetooth compatible and if to do so, what should I get?
Is it any of these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354864497400
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wonolo-Bluetoo … 07VXV5HQX/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07LDDWTJG/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235178325129
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282271037782
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275393758132
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275754249571
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155478801383
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164795295712
Edit: (waited for almost an hour
) as I did "research" and ... considering I know ever so little about all of it, so splashed out for this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364296855980
Will let you know how am I getting on with it
That'll be (st)dealers. Any Citroen/Peugeot/Fiat or subsequently Vauxhall/Ford dealers would have blown-up diagrams to order those from
unbelievable they are still about, but I reckon it's the same firm
https://www.revampavan.com/price-list-2022/
I did a 200 mile nonstop drive knowing it was going to be all motorway, and chose a route that minimises any up- and down hill sections.
Filled up right to the brim before and after and drove painfully slow to see what I could eke out of it.
Was well chuffed when I only got 17 litres in! 52.37 MPG!
impressive! bet less so for the ones following you 
as above... only a passing interest
Doubt anyone would be doing custom job worth few times more that of any of our vans worth
Years ago, I was considering investing in a T4 and called around, when some family owned firm (in Southampton) quoted me £4.5k for a standard fibreglass with all stainless manual lift, could have had it in carbon and electrical, but didn't brave to ask for that, as just a normal stripping, templating, supports etc- just labour was about £2k
i want the pollen filter housing that fits in this part. ive been after one for ages but can never get them. i have the filters, just need the "thing" they sit in.
Very likely I'm wrong, but I think some models in a Cab (not a van) version did come with polen filters (and fittings)
Wish I'd seen this when it was posted I could've saved you a lot of time lol
BUT YOU DIDN'T!

there's the other one to deal with
Have a butchers
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … php?id=715
basically it's not that easy to get one
That Waze?
I have been using iGO Primo in a tablet off and on for quite a while now. I have no need for live traffic to never bothered using Waze.
They work better than the average sat nav in the fact that the processors tend to be faster and they have more RAM. Obvious other gains is holding music/films for when away and bluetooth to car stereo. If no Bluetooth you could use headphone socket into the AUX. Back to a 9" sat nav just now as i find the mounts to fit a tablet are quite weak. I keep meaning to make a fixed one but never get round to it. I got the idea a few years back heading through Holland as every 2nd car had a tablet/laptop on the dash. Im thinking nutters are checking emails or whatever. Passed one and no, it was a sat nav. Should have gone to Specsavers mate
This time it is Waze, down to experience of about 10 years testing every single one there was/is. Data?- it has become a tad more consuming, but in general with data monitor it's proven to be ~ 100mb an hour of traffic congested driving in SE, I can't be bothered with none other these days, although I got installed 3-5 others on the go.
If anything, I should've bought 15-16mm velcro strips for mouthing all contraption on-off ... but hey-learning curve
Bluetooth?- kinda not needed, as I use 2D maps, glance over (more like looking at it all the time), not the road, even locally... taught me to NEVER argue with "her", no human can possibly be that much aware of all that's happening traffic ways, regardless how knowledgeable you are in the area. Not sure if the "Slab-Tab" can transmit VHF in to radio, thinking along the lines to have it interconnected with nav apps??? dunno, but not necessarily needed after-all, might see what's what at some stage.
ANW, as I (and you) say- don't bother with mounting thingies, natural contours of dash make it all perfect to velcro-it, concur!
Particular Slab-Tab has a SIM slot, so not necessary to tether from the phone, I've set-it up so only new email (and number) accounts are trying to communicate, almost nobody knows the number to call me... so far no disruptions.
Once done driving/navigating, I use it for my in-bed sleep-aid, with all the TV streaming etc, as it was doing my head in, when "watching" telly, falling asleep, getting awaken by something or the other, whilst this one, once folded up in a duvet - can't hear it 
AlvyLad wrote:Ladies and Gentlemen,
Let me present you...(it is what it is! fairly funcional 10.3" tablet display adoption Beta)
Alpha mounting in a vent broke and broke the vent (it's glued in place now).. power supply turns out need be specific [12V 3A USB-C] didn't work, hence 20Va (20 000 MVAH) power brick- battery "back up option", that's good for about 100hrs usage ... either way simple 16mm Velcro self adhesive buttons ~ x20 in total should keep me on a straight and narrow for a foreseeable future
Bi-Directional (obviously)
Wow, that's clearly indistinguishible! I thought that was the Tesla Cybertruck for a moment there, you almost had me fooled
You owe me pint, as no selfrespecting Dispatch owner is going to have one with snots in it!

briddy good, especially if you understand what are you looking at
https://www.mediafire.com/file/nejq2h28 … s.pdf/file
Ladies and Gentlemen,
Let me present you...
(it is what it is! fairly funcional 10.3" tablet display adoption Beta)
Alpha mounting in a vent broke and broke the vent (it's glued in place now).. power supply turns out need be specific [12V 3A USB-C] didn't work, hence 20Va (20 000 MVAH) power brick- battery "back up option", that's good for about 100hrs usage ... either way simple 16mm Velcro self adhesive buttons ~ x20 in total should keep me on a straight and narrow for a foreseeable future

Bi-Directional (obviously)
Damn just seen this was desperate to get back on the road could have saved myself few quid there
not a clue if you have Lucas or Bosch pump, it also most often makes sense to be replacing whole pump, instead of solenoid alone, but those are rather dear...
if it was fixed few extra squids aren't that much on a grander scale of repairs