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That's France for you. If it's not broken, lets try harder to fuck it up.
Of course, as ever, Britain is a beacon of good governance in a mad world.

Did well to start at all with none working!
Sounds a good price to me.
I was getting quotes of 200+ inc parts 5 years ago.
Casper wrote:OAT wrote:science fiction in 1998.
I remember watching Space 1999 as a kid. How disappointed i was when it came round.
"Snap"
Funny you should say that... I am just rediscovering Land of the Giants.
If this post is anything to go by you have a green earth missing. Scroll down to where the OP puts up three pictures. It will probably be an earth you dont need if putting in and old classic with steel dash. Bit like some radios would not work till you installed the aerial or put in cradle.
Interesting. Same manufacturer, different model. As you suggest, wiring is virtually the same apart from mine being missing a green.

The missing green on mine could be due to it having the long threaded studs for the mounting bracket and the green originally being a simple ring connector to one of the studs. Likely to be left behind on removal.
If so I can see no need for a second earth going inside the case. Which means I don't even know where the black goes either.
Also note the jumpers for 2, 4 or 6 cylinders.
This thread suggests that it doesn't even need the blue connected:-
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/t … v-counter/
And this video suggests that the black is the signal feed and that there may be two separate circuits which would require a live feed (my blue?) to the internals.
Only way to confirm would be to look inside. But as its a sealed unit and as I don't think I will be using it so I won't bother.
OBD port??? science fiction in 1998. 
Just found this while sorting some boxes:-

It has 4 wires - Red, Black, Blue, Yellow.
Black and red will be 12v, The red doesn't enter the casing but attaches direct to the 2 night light bulb holders externally.
The yellow is very long and looks like signal.
Any ideas on the blue? Would it be another 12v live to the internals?
There have been quite a few threads on this.
I remember Synergie and 806's being mentioned but I am sure there were quite a few others.
Try the search with "single front seat"
Never seen a breakaway design aimed at campers but some industries do use them. Some emergency vehicles even have self ejecting plugs triggered by engine starting.
An unmissable visual reminder like Casper suggests would be simplest and cheapest I think.
How about a large bright tag on a clip to attach to your keys?
...
There seems to be a lot of variation and incompatibility between the various ECU's, software, and hardware used. Might be worth finding even an ordinary garage with different (more professional? equipment .
Top of the list from a quick search finds this one though who claim no call out fee and no fix, no charge!!! :-
I spotted the golfball(s) and aerials and knew it was probably an air traffic place,
Apparently the highest ground east of the Urals.
I think the "air traffic" those golf balls were interested in may have been ballistic. Even local domestic radios sometimes receive Radio Moscow and there used to be a pub up there called The Kremlin due to soviet radio occasionally picked up by it's juke box.
Had a short visit to the area many years ago but don't remember too much apart from the views, the pub and some interesting old quarries and mines. The terraced railway track bed and viaduct supports above the car park look familiar.
Some of the early Pug ones it was just a simple case of ignition on. Disarm and take the multiplug out the back. Start engine and that was it.
That makes sense. Allowing anyone who knew the code to remove it. And should just plug right back if it doesn't work. I just read though that this is only effective until the battery is removed or goes flat. I may try this after doing a reset.
Have found this too:-
Turn on ignition (dont start engine)
Enter current code (red light goes green)
Press C button once
Enter in new 4 digit code
Press C button again once
New code is now entered and confirmed by 4 beeps
Start engine
NB - Original code retained in memory for 3 turns on of the ignition switch, if new code forgotten re-enter the old one.
After 3 ignition switch operations original code lost and no way back!!
https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post … tm?t=22208
Worst case scenario you just destroy the immobiliser part on the fuel pump. Garage job but solves the problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r_H125imwc
Don't fancy this
:-
My 1999 model has a key pad immobilizer fitted which is becoming increasingly difficult to use and I want to remove it before it fails altogether and leaves me stranded.
The key pad is in the lower dash pocket to the right of the steering column and has rubberised buttons to enter a 4 digit code. The relevant buttons have shown increasing wear over the years and one in particular is now very tricky to use. I have to poke it vigorously with a pen cap or similar to get it to register.
So I would like to remove the unit but am concerned that there may be complications. Although it is a simple and primitive device, surely they have protected it from merely being removed?
Any advice on taking it out?
Alternately, has anyone got instructions for setting and changing the code?
I could then at least reset it to buttons that have never been used and so should still be reliable.
Glad to hear it.
Better the devil you know.
Oddly enough, the problem with mine when down 2 then later even only one dead glow plug, wasn't starting but extreme grey smoke till warmed up. It still started surprisingly well.
I don't know about that engine in particular but I think the access problem is common to them all.
When I wanted mine replacing the biggest problem seemed to be concerns about seized plugs leading to stripped threads and knackered head.
Three garages made half-hearted attempts or declining the job altogether. One garage replaced the 2 easily reached ones, said one was seized, and the last one inaccessible.
I eventually found a garage (a diesel specialist) that replaced all four in a couple of hours and had no problems.
Is it just the photo, or is the housing casting behind the thermostat the texture of polystyrene?
Edit: Supplementary question: Why has the bottom pin that the caliper slides on got a rubber sleeve on the inner end? Damping?
Not sure what part but could it be a dust seal?
A simple clean and lube would be a good start.
Not quite the "K" shape of yours:-

Dispatch Check Engine Warning light
Check Engine
Name: Citroën Dispatch check engine warning light.
Description: The check engine warning light, also called the malfunction indicator light (MIL) is Citroën's Engine Self-Diagnosis System. It comes on for the following reasons:
▷ Citroën Dispatch Check Engine Warning light Fixed: Emissions control system has a fault. You can usually carry on driving. May notice reduced engine power and an increase in fuel consumption. Have engine check as soon as possible.
▷ Citroën Dispatch Check Engine Warning light Flashing: Engine management system has a fault. May notice rough sounding engine indicating misfire. Possible damage to the catalytic converter may arise due to fuel entering the system and causing extremely high temperatures. Immediately reduce speed until the light goes out. Have vehicle checked immediately.
▷ Citroën Dispatch Check Engine Warning light + Citroën Dispatch Warning Service Spanner light Indication of a minor engine fault.
▷ Citroën Dispatch Check Engine Exclamation Mark Warning light + Citroën Dispatch STOP warning light. Indication of a major engine fault. Stop immediately and contact a Citroën workshop.
So that set me off listening to the first 3 albums again this morning.
How about the Kraftwerk offshoot Neu!?
I aren't too bothered by a slope myself but my fridge is very fussy.
Just an inch or so out back to front and it struggles. Any further and it actually heats up!
edit... even more fussy is Ken. Can be amusing watching the performance. (but not so much in the early hours of the morning!)
When the van gets warmed up the air coming out is like a dull warm,
Is the air coming out at full blast although only warm? If it's not blowing quite strongly a blower pipe could be partially disconnected.
Any difference switching from external intake to recirculated?
If it's the same as earlier ones,. there is a catch at both ends. Sounds like one side of yours is not unlatching. Can't remember if the connection is cable or rod but it has probably broken or disconnected.
I remember a thread recently about.them, might be something there to help you get in.
Found it....from vaz:-
Are you absolutely sure about the thermostat being the correct one?
How about trying it without a thermostat. Sounds like the hot water isn't reaching the temp sensor.
Is it the Navidrive system?
Does it offer Diagnostics?
Not many of us dinosaurs have such modern "improvements" I don't think. I am more amazed every time I hear more of them.
Any of this any use:-
There’s a few different ways to reset the tyre pressure monitoring system for the Mk 3 Citroën Dispatch.
Tyre Pressure Monitor Button
If your version of Citroën Dispatch has a tyre pressure monitor reset button, simply press and hold the button for around 3 seconds until you hear an audible beep. After the beep, the system will be reset to the the values of the current tyre pressures.
Reset using the Audio System
Citroën Dispatch Mk 3 tyre pressure reset audio system
Reset using the Citroën Dispatch audio system
The wording used may vary depending on your version of Citroën Dispatch such as ‘reset’ or ‘initialisation’. Using the audio system on your vehicle:
Press the Menu button.
Go to Personalisation-configuration.
Select Under-inflation initialisation to reset the tyre pressure monitor.
Reset using the Touch Screen
Use this method if your vehicle has the touch screen system.
Citroën Dispatch Mk 3 tyre pressure reset touch screen
Reset using the Citroën Dispatch touch screen
Press the Driving Menu button.
Select Under-inflation initialisation.
Select Yes to confirm the instruction to reset the tyre pressure monitor.
Try to check tyre pressures at least once every month and/or before a long journey. Driving with under-inflated tyres reduces their life, impairs road handling and increases fuel consumption. Tyre may also heat up increasing the risk of tyre damage or possible blow-out.
https://www.dash-lights.com/citroen/dis … ure-reset/
