The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Doubt that last one is your issue. Is the screen not bonded?

colours mean nothing with coolants, you need to see what the coolant is made of.

the most common types Glycol OAT (most common coolant in 90s-2010s vehicles) and Silicate (used in old stuff) based coolants must never be mixed. theres other types of coolant too like G05, G13, G30, G48..  loads.

the main thing with coolant is that if you are unsure, you MUST get all traces of old coolant out of the system before filling with new. thankfully its the summer and no risk of freezing.
what i would do is flush the system as many times as you want to. till clear. for me what i do to clean a system is to use 2 ground up dish washer tablets with the red (rinse aid) ball removed from them (or just get the cheap ones that do not have that). run that in the system for a day or 2 then drain and flush many times again. full fills with pipes connected and engine running to temp then drain again. then fill up with the coolant of your choice and replace next year, after that it should be fine.

see any engine can take any coolant. the thing is removing all of the old coolant as it all reacts.

for your van the coolant it came from the factory with would have been clear Glycol based OAT (organic acid technology) coolant. Red/orange/blue coolant is usually Glycol based OAT coolant.. the colours usually indicate life expectancy of the coolant. red/orange is normally 5 years and blue is normally 2 years. the colant will last a lot longer however its the corrosion inhibitors that slowly break down.

like i say however, colour is NOT a good method of identification with coolant.

if you have ever worked on old 70's stuff and changed a water pump you somtimes notice strange clear jelly like blobs stuck to the components. this is where it originally would have been using silicate coolant however someone over the years topped up or changed the coolant out with the newer glycol coolant but did not flush correctly. dish washer tablets usually remove the build up.

a little crazy thing i did once for 6 years was run a vehicle with a very low viscosity synthetic oil as coolant (which gels up at -30) the car never once over heated and you could take the coolant cap off at maximum temperature and the system had no pressurisation. when i replaced the cam belt and water pump it looked identical to the day i fitted it. no decolourisation and not one bit of corrosion.
this is never done on vehicles because of cost and i guess risk of fire in the event of a collision...  but you are talking to someone who refilled an old R12 aircon system with propane to get the AC working again.

i hope this has helped

I'll reconnect the hoses

P1108 Code - Dual Alternator Battery Lamp Circuit Malfunction
Table of contents
What are the Possible Causes of the P1108 Code?
How to Fix the P1108 Code?
What is the Cost to Diagnose the P1108 Code?
What Does the P1108 Code Mean?
   
What does this mean?
What are the Possible Causes of the Code P1108?
Engine Control Module (ECM) outdated or incorrect software
Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

How to Fix the P1108 Code?
Start by checking the "Possible Causes" listed above. Visually inspect the related wiring harness and connectors. Check for damaged components and look for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded connector's pins.

Search P1108 Questions and Answers
What is the Cost to Diagnose the Code P1108?
Labor: 1.0
The cost to diagnose the P1108 code is 1.0 hour of labor. The auto repair's diagnosis time and labor rates vary by location, vehicle's make and model, and even your engine type. Most auto repair shops charge between $75 and $150 per hour.

Does your Car have Safety Recalls? → Check here
What are Code P1108 Possible Symptoms?
Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
Engine rough idle
Engine hesitation

Hey I'm not that senior yet!