The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

It only says that list is commonly seen motorcaravan external features that might guide the DVLA to a decision it does not say that all motor caravans have these or must have these, could be construde that they want it to look enough like a motor caravan to be a motor caravan.

So for instance Muffin 1 my last camper had 3 windows, had an awning bar on the side and motor caravan graphics down both sides but did not have the high roof.

I guess they are trying to avoid all these stealth campers.

On a lighter note Muffin 2 did the drive to work this morning and really doesnt seam like a 320,000 mile vehicle

Yes thats what they do, just carry on until oil supply stops and engine seizes or until it over revs until it litterally blows apart.

Unless you can stop it, only two ways, safe way is to stall it but that depends on if you can stall an engine revving flat out. I did thankfully on second attempt it stayed stalled too, but after 1st attempt it just restarted.

2nd way which I hear is possible but I wouldn't consider it, is to take away the air supply to the engine, basically shove something in the air inlet so no air gets into engine, however this means going very close to an engine that may detinate at any moment. TBH if the first doesnt work I would personally run away and warn off people getting close and just wait for the bang!

And dont suppose they clarrified what they think of as what looks like a campervan?

Well its dead

As you may know had an issue where the cambelt (which was at correct tension jumped 4 teath at crank (8 at cam) and was somehow able to run kind of backwards with air sucked in through exhaust and exhaust blown out through inlet.

Anyway, Canbelt re-done and it runs, starts first turn of key and drives, however compression is slightly low accros all cylinders so suspects valves might have taken a knock and are not seeling well so running a bit guttless, but no smoke, just slow.

However I was thinking still usable and so was going to MOT and sell and start converting my potential doner Expert I picked up while it was dead, howver then the below happened.

So now I am stripping it of good bits and scrapping it! Unless someone wants to buy this weekend its being weighed in without the camper stuff. Weirdly the oil leak happened on way to MOT! And exhaust leak is a pin hole in down pipe.

MOT results

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
•Oil leaking continuously from engine posing a serious risk to road safety (8.4.1 (a) (ii)) 
•Exhaust fumes causing a danger to health of persons on board front pipe (6.1.2 (b) (ii))

Repair immediately (major defects):
•Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength (5.3.6 (a) (i))
•Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength (5.3.6 (a) (i))
•Offside Front Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced (7.1.1 (a) (i))
•Offside Front Outer Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot split or insecure, no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (6.1.7 (g) (ii))
•Nearside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
•Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
•Nearside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded to abs pump (1.1.11 (c))
•Offside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded to abs pump (1.1.11 (c))
•Offside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded to hose (1.1.11 (c))
•Nearside Front Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
•Offside Front Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
•Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
•Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
•Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
•Offside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.1.3 (b) (i))
•Offside Rear Shock absorbers has a serious fluid leak (5.3.2 (b))
•Emissions not tested (8.2.2.2 (e))
•Towbar attachment insecure (6.1.6 (c) (i))
•Nearside Front Tyre has a cut in excess of the requirements deep enough to reach the ply or cords (5.2.3 (d) (i))

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
•Offside Registration plate lamp inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources (4.7.1 (b) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
•Offside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
•Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
•Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

Inlet gets full of shit from the EGR too, you could send back and get the one from Allparts SW think its up for 250 quid, unless thats the one you have ofc.

You need to get a meter across the wiring for the pump when its bad ideally as close to pump as possible and see if its a break down in the cable or a faulty pump.
The looms on these vans are not great so I think it could be either but when its not starting if you dont see 12v across the pump connections it will confirm its the wiring.

So an update, so does this picture look like TDC, i have not yet taken off starter and tried to lock the crank yet but this was the position of the crank pulley after getting the engine turned so I could lock the camshaft.

20190817_170218 by k_wyndham_t, on Flickr

Tell me if I am wrong but the woodruff key is at TDC on the crank and as the line of the sump is not at 90 degrees to this the engine is not at TDC at the moment?

So update for this weekend, I have done a compression check, it is the same on all cylinders so not a burnt or holed valve (or piston), but does seam low for a diesel, its about right for a petrol car but would think a typical diesel would be about double.

I think I will have to check the timing, I doubt very much the belt has jumped as nearly new and I have taken the covers off and its at correct tension and all looks good, but maybe a woodruff key has broken and a pulley has moved or something similar as something is going on to make the exhaust exit the inlet.

Do I gather to do the timing there are two locating pins used, one in the cam pulley at about 7 0'clock and the one in the flywheel is through a hole behind the starter motor which has to come off to access?

So I blanked off the EGR and I am still getting the banging and fumes coming back out the inlet under preasure, this is bad news.
It did occur to me that it sounds like one bang per cycle so that would indicate its only fumes from one cylinder coming out which implies the other 3 are OK, but its cylinder related.
I'm guessing its going to be broken/stuck/bent valve.

What is the best way to do a compression check on these engines?

I use one of these, the 4G aerials on the outside and WiFi aerial on the inside.

Proroute H820 4G Route