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Yes my antique has been commented on! (Still man enough to open my own windows and lock my own doors though.
)
I was hoping this manual might cover your variant but the section on the turbo seems to be missing now I look
:-
Well I poked the camera in everywhere I could. I left the pics big so they should blow up well.
Must admit they don't mean much to me when I look at them. Hope they are of some use. Hard to even see the turbo never mind the connections!
To tell you "this 1 goes from this to that" I would first need to know what "this" and "that" were. 
Happy to help though, fire away any questions with reference to the pics and I will do my best.
I also dropped the manual in there in case you haven't got it :-
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/xb72df … r29/shared
EDIT...
Uploaded wrong folder for the manual. On it's way now.
That would be great OAT.
Or maybe I could give you a bell and you could talk me through them? Might be easier than getting pics in the dark depths of the engine bay!Andy
Happy to do that but not sure it would help. I know nothing about diesel plumbing at all.
I will post some pics as a starting point. Will be tomorrow evening though.
I don't have a clue but would be happy to take some pics and post if they might help?
So they had the part for 3 days but didn't bother checking it?
Sounds like the type of service I often get. It's only in recent years I have resorted to paying to get work done. It is rarely done when they say it will be though. I must look a soft touch or it's how they treat everyone.
I know from past threads that many others have problems with sliding door guides.
Both were snapped on my own van when I got it and after replacing, now one is again broken and the other distorted. I ordered another pair and was going to try strengthening them up with plastic metal to see if that helped.
On arrival though they were not the plastic I expected but well cast metal with an internal reinforcing web.
Anyone else with plastic ones which are not doing the job properly or keep breaking might want to consider these:-
or if none left, a bit dearer here :-
The stiffening web can be seen in the pics but the plastic ones don't show the back so you can't see they are different.
Annoyingly I now have a few of the socket pieces going spare if anyone needs them.
As much as the plastic ones are sub standard, I must admit that its peoples lack of mechanical sympathy which does them in. People seem to fail to close them properly on first go then just push them forward as hard as they possibly can the next time. No recognition of the need to ease them in at the end of the track at all! Had one fully engage the latch while the guide was totally outside it's socket recently. I had to jemmy out the top of the door to release it!
I now behave like an attentive chauffeur and dash round to close the sliders when anyone gets in.
I have no experience of them myself but as you say, the amount of problems people have with the electronics and engine management does put me off. But to be fair, I feel the same about any other make of modern vehicle.
I see they can be remapped to 150bhp and would certainly make for a good drive. My own TD has more than enough power for me though. Age and fuel prices have reduced me to squeezing the most out of every gallon these days.
So here's the van in it's (hopefully) finished state,
They are NEVER finished! 
Nice job though and you didn't hang about. Looks like you struck lucky with the fit of those cushions.
When you carpeted the rear doors... how did you do the edges? Thinking of doing mine but concerned about the exposed edges not staying stuck down.
Almost any soap based stuff will work.
Always used washing up liquid on m/c goggles and visors.
Most effective was to smear all over then rinse under running tap. Not so practical on van windows of course. Trick is to leave a smear free film on the glass.
Plenty of expensive branded options. Muc-Off and the even better named "CatCrap" are supposed to be very good. But shaving foam or washing up liquid are always to hand and a fraction of the price.
Bear in mind though that some rubber suckers for internal blinds won't take to any of these coatings. I now just leave the corners untreated just like the proverbial nautical window cleaner.
Nice use of space but hate the finish.
Never been a high priority for me.
I did think it a bit sterile at first sight and thought about wrapping the units. But in use it's so practical, and adds to the feeling of space.
I could get a wrap of smashed up euro pallets I suppose and be bang on trend.

Should have got the earlier model with factory fitted side door vent-o-matic. 
Those spinners can drive you mad! Don't know if you can get them with an off button or if you could dampen the paneling around them. Bearable while driving but can drive you to extreme measures if you are trying to sleep and the wind gets up.
Looking seriously into condensation, like insulation and spinning vents, can also drive you mad!
Lining like Casper suggests will help a lot. You are reducing the cold surfaces for air borne moisture to condense.
But that moisture, about two liters per human per 24hrs I think (don't know about dogs), is still in the air. I will surely just concentrate moisture as condensation on other perhaps hidden cold surfaces. It has to go somewhere until there is some sort of equilibrium between internal and external temperatures and humidity. Unless anyone can tell me different?
Despite that I think anything to reduce cold surfaces will be good but bear in mind if you expect high levels, and don't get chance to air it out often enough, soft fabric liner can get damp and musty very quickly.
I have been wondering about neoprene wetsuit type material?
Like insulation, it's far more complex than I realised. In the long run adequate ventilation is I think the only real remedy. Trouble is wet weather, gear, dogs, etc so often come with colder weather. Just when you don't want to let any warm air out.
Full 2 berth conversion but missing a seat which would make up the second bed.
While you might think I would be biased, I can honestly say this conversion is by far the best, for my sort of use, that I have ever had. And I have had a few. Absolutely perfect for solo touring and as good as most at this size sleeping two.
It's only downside for many would be the beds. Being made up from the contoured driving seats, they might not suit the princess and the pea types. But I find them no problem at all. Years of ultra light camping mats make these feel like luxury. My partner can sleep on them ok but would like them a bit flatter so we are getting a thick good quality topper for her side. Oh, and I can't say they improve intimacy but neither do they totally prevent it. 
If I were to only use mine solo I would take a seat out too.
Apart from that though a great conversion offering facing seats for four (-1!), and comfortable lounging in any direction with views all round beating that of many larger vans. Full and easy access to all doors, all cupboards and all facilities even with both beds down. Can get anywhere a car can and carry four belted passengers. And, you can stand up in the back.
If it's as good as claimed, it could be a real good buy. I almost wish I was in the market. Took me 18 months to find mine and this one might be better.
No connection... honest.
edit...
Don't know why I posted it down this end?
Thanks for the suggestions all. As all seems ok when warmed up I think I will live with it for now and see how it goes. It's just a bit embarrassing when starting from cold in a crowded area.
I can understand your need for an early night after all that climbing Ricko. Having always had problems getting off to sleep I am often still gazing out the windows to 2 or 3 in the morning myself. It's surprising how few nights are truly dark in the summer. Especially as you get further north.
Hello Bobby.
Don't think I can help myself but have you checked the "Repair Manuals, Publications and other Downloads" section?
Your heater problem sounds the same as was common on the earlier models. I think there are a few threads on it in the 1996 - 2006 Vans section. The speed control resistor may well be mounted on the fan housing itself.
Well my scepticism about these things has been cured.
After arriving at the remote Stour Head lighthouse after driving through heavy rain I left my lights on. It was an hour or so before I noticed.
I was so concerned about it starting in the morning that in my panic I forgot to put in the immobiliser code before I cranked it a few times. This finished it of and there was no way it was going to start.
There was a few tourists arriving and a sandwich van which I hoped might have a genny so I rummaged around to find my charger and jump leads.
As I walked toward the sandwich van to ask about a charge or jump start a man I had noticed watching me earlier called me over. He had one of these emergency starting charger things and was quite keen to test it.
It started the van instantly.
I am definitely going to treat myself to one although there are mixed reviews about their performance after storage unused for extended periods.
With the multiple charging options available though I think I would make enough use of it charging phones, batteries, etc. to keep it in good condition.
Like having another leisure battery but with the ability to start the van.
Nice trip Ricko. Make the most of the hill climbing while you can. I can only sit and look at them these days.
Although I spent a lot of time and money sorting out my own dual charge and lighting recently, I find my most used light is still a single led bendy map reading thing with a clip to attach where needed. Enough light in summer for most things I might be doing after dusk.
Different in winter though and I can't find any leds that I like for full illumination of the van. The ones I have now are very unpleasantly glaringly white (like the van!
) Those very cheap triple a push on/push off leds are useful too. Surface mount magnetic, velcro or sticky wherever you need one. Very handy in cupboards.
Most of my use was charging the phone and camera batteries which could mostly be done whilst driving.
Just back from a northern tour myself. No plan, just wandered for 1,400 miles. Van ran perfect apart from me flattening the battery! (a post on this to follow.
It has developed a smoking habit on startup though. Clouds of grey which disappear as soon as warmed up. Am I right in suspecting worn valve stem oil seals?
Some pics...
Loch Voil:-

Scourie Bay:-
On the Nigg - Cromarty ferry overtaking an oil rig:-
Christ even my 1.9 had central locking
What year is yours? Mine was 2001. You still using the original radio? I bin them for these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluetooth-Car … Swrf1ZZznq
One up front and one in the back. Cant go wring at that price
1999 and I am pleased to be without central locking thanks. I can also just about still mange to wind down a window unaided too.
Anyway, with a stereo like that, even with two of them, you can hardly knock it.
Mine came with a Kenwood KDC-3047 but only standard speakers which can't handle it.
Any recommendations for decent three way co-ax door speakers? Nothing too exotic (read expensive) but no Lidl specials please.
Anyway... off to do battle with the reported record midge invasion. And/or the weather by the looks of it. If you see my antique Expert along Scotlands NW coast over the next week or so, come and say hello.
Yes WOW.
I would love one of those. I am finding the expert the best size van for my sort of use I have ever had. Just that extra few cubic meters would be very welcome though. Well worth putting up with the extra wheelbase for.
Wouldn't want to go back to anything wider, both mirrors pruning hedges through the lanes of Wales last month.
OAT ya drama queen
You main battery will be fine but if you must how about buying red battery lead and bringing it into the cab and connecting to this switch then back out to starter. Bummer is radio memory, clock and central locking.
That'll be some heavy wire to somehow get through through to the cab. I will stick with disconnection on longer stops.
"Central locking"!?!
What is this magic of which you speak? You will be telling me next that windows can go up and down without any visible winding.
Just reminded me though, I don't know my radio code but despite quite a few disconnections, I have never needed one.
As I mentioned in another thread, despite my van never failing to start, I constantly worry about a flat starter battery after a remote camping stop. It shouldn't happen as I don't use it at all when camping but all it takes is a stuck relay.
I have been thinking of those small starter power packs. There are some very compact ones about now but reports are very mixed. Seems their reliability over time can be suspect. One thing you do need from an emergency back up is that it works when you desperately need it. I think a year or so developement and they will be a good option.
Anyone used one in anger?
Not particularly this one, just an example:-
The Max’s supersized 13,600 mAh battery capacity and USB means power for all your devices, whilst the handy, inbuilt multi-function LED torch means you can use it night and day. Every Max comes complete with 4-in-1 charging cable, featuring USB, micro USB, 30 pin and Lightning compatible connections. Slot it into the Max’s USB port and your favourite device will be charging in seconds.Additionally, the Max also comes complete with a wide range of laptop tips, making it ideal to charge almost any laptop – excluding MacBooks, MacBook Airs and MacBook Pros – helping you make the most of this powerful lithium battery pack.
What’s it compatible with?
Fully compatible with a wide range of electronic devices including iPhones, iPods, iPads, Kindles and Nooks, together with smartphones, laptops and tablets from leading electronics manufacturers including Huawei, HTC, LG, Nokia, Samsung, Sony and ZTE.
It can also jump start most petrol and diesel engine cars, motorcycles, vans, tractors, lawnmowers and quads up to 2.5 litres capacity.
As Casper says May notice slightly longer
An electrical ignoramus myself but I thought I would pass this on...
I recently had a chat about fitting an uprated alternator with an auto electrician. He suggested that, at least in my own case, the charging efficiency and duration wouldn't be affected as even the standard alternator puts out far more than required for the limited (primitive) system of a 1999 van. The charge rate is limited to protect the battery and more power available would just be surplus.
The basic electrics and lack of computer "aids" was a big point in going for as old a van as I did. Making a point of finding the most isolated places to camp as I can, the last thing I need is a flat starter battery.
I have even taped up my courtesy light switches in the door jambs and yes they are converted to leds. I am still paranoid after anything more than an overnight stop though. I can't walk very far, usually out of signal, and I doubt the RAC would come to some of the places I get anyway.
I like how it looks relatively straight and "normal", but still has a bit of an edge. The Germans will love it.
How much on the ferry btw? Bit more than the Expert I expect.
But you get a lot more for your money with the LDV. I find the Expert perfect for solo but a bit restricted even for two. (Especially when she still insists on bringing at least three times the stuff she will ever use!)
Nice job C, whens lift off?
I don't know if that one fits or not but there's a good chance it would. If your getting it for nothing it would be worth a try for the cost of postage. You could get your money back on ebay if it didn't.
Seems to be plenty of Expert/Dispatch/Scudo ones about for £30 - £40.
A few posts here may give some pointers:-