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I reckon it's the pad sensor wire too.
Mine failed the MOT because the thing just dangling about ( as well as some welding of course)
and it was easily tidied up.
Insulate both cables if/when you trim it as if they're shorted together, this will trigger an alarm light on the dash
Just seen a 2005 Expert 2.0 HDI for sale with 220,000 miles on the clock
and still going strong albeit with some age related issues.
As mine has a mere 136,000 miles I find this encouraging that with due care and servicing
it should last, especially as I do less than 10k a year.
it’s been an absolute weapon.
what does that mean?
Whoa! hang on there
I am confused over whether we're talking power steering as mentioned in the title
or fuel delivery pumps as mentioned too, here
Some pics or clarification would help
A pic worth a thousand words and all that
Mine has a single passeneger seat and that would be fairly straight forward to mount on a swivel
but a swivelling double seat would take a more serious design time and effort (and money of course)
to make it fit for purpose and safe.
I'd like to see a double passener seat or two seperate passenger seats actually fitted and swivelling
in place before I'd believe it, because looking at mine, I really dont see much room for it unless they are child seats.
Pics?
It's to let you enjoy the extra power and good mpg when it goes right
and break your heart and wallet when it doesn't.
That's the ECU, the Engine Control Unit
As per Kens post about identifying engines
Here are some pics of my 2006 2.0 HDI lump which I think is RHZ (whatever that means)
I do know its definitely a common rail direct injection motor though.
with AC btw cos dead posh
Overview:

Close up:

ECU :
label washed out so not sure of model

I reckon Ken's got it right about a new door.
As he says The earlier vans were indirect injection DW8's and XUD's I believe
and nominally 1.9D or 1.9TD.
HDI stand for High speed Direct Injection
and usually 2.0 litre (actually 1997cc) DW10s
It can be confusing
the guy I bought my van off said it was 16Valve
A year later I still have no idea whether it has or not
but don't really care as long as it's reliable and economical.
Yes I'm a twat for not reading the small print
When I saw the pic of the facelift expert and at the advice of the
guy at the MOT garage I dived right in.
I really ought to know better by now, what happened to the cynical old bastard
that is moi?
talking of cynical it really is cynically done IMO
Haynes do not want to invest in the former practise of actually doing any work
and research on a vehicle, but have found sly, just legal, way to profit from as many
models as they can at low cost.
If you've grown up with Haynes manuals, you'd be appalled at the Autofix.
Much of if generalised crap they can copy/paste into any old manual and do
as in the YT vid, the guy had the same pics as my manual and it hadn't anything to do with his car either !
It has a whiff the bland AI generated stuff about it too
Another cynical part is when you use it as you obviously would have to
to evaluate it, you immediately void any chance of a refund !
His previous posts mention a 2012
When I was getting the van MOT'd I mention to the guy at the garge how
finding a good resource for info on my 2006 Expert van wasn't as easy as I hoped
he mentioned Hayne manuals and I said "I wish mate but they dont do one"
He typed in my registration and showed me a page on Haynes' website that appeared to be just the job
so I trotted off home and bought the online version as no paper version was offered
Long story short, what a load of old shite
At first I though that may be I wasn't using it right but kept browsing through trying to find something useful
unique or particular to the Expert but no
I thought "I know I'll start simple with say the air filter"
and browsed the air filter section
All I got was generalised pics of air filters none of which looked anything like mine
of earlier versions of the van.
Then I did what I should have done in the first place, my home work.
I tried Trustpilot and all saw were 1 star posts on what a useless rip off Haynes Autofix was
Ditto a review on Youtube
The Sedre Peugeot parts software I bought last year is a slow clunky pita to use but way more useful to use.
I didn't know the MK1's had a tailgate option.
As I'm not familiar with the van please remember I'm only guessing.
You're probably better asking someone with the same van or at a parts store.
I do know that the rubber inner section of these things is more than likely bonded in and
the whole think comes as an assembly.
Guessing again, but you'd probably need to take the weight of the engine with a jack
to remove/replace it
I don't know, what model is it?
If my guess is correct and torque control has failed, the engine can twist on its mountings
under load putting strain on things like the exhaust, upper engine mounts and any pipe work running from the
engine to other fixed parts of the engine bay.
If I'm right then it would probably be unwise and expensive to ignore
From what I can see and as it's some kind of cush mount and in that position,
I'll guess its there to control the torque reaction of the engine.
Just had all the welding and drive shaft gaiter done
£179
Not bad at all eh?
I'm dead lucky to have an indy mechanic a 3 minute walk away to do all the stuff
I cba to myself nowadays.
This is the guy who charged me £40 when the MOT garage quoted me £210
for a welding job on my old Galaxy.
Good stuff well done.
My van has just had work done to get it to pass its annual MOT (fit for use on the public highway) test
which I hope will be done Saturday.
Not sure how strict your tests are in Sweden but here those faded number plates
would probably be frowned upon.
BTW how "very used" is it in terms of kilometers?
I know I have a later van but unless it's very very quiet, there is no relay between the light switch and lights
and have seen no sign of one in any of the diagrams I have seen so far.
They all show the same system.
Power in to the switch on cable BB4 then power out to fuses 12 and 13 via the VV cable
I amended the rear light cluster pin out
In the last image
using a meter set for continuity and a wire between pin 2 (cable v13W) of 2630 ( LH tail light)
and the fuse should show continuity and prove the fuse (f13) is
definitely the one supplying and protecting the circuit
then the same test between pin2 ( cable V12C) at 2635 and hopefully F12
This will confirm things for the avoidance of doubt
so your idea of rigging a cable between the switch and fuse supply
should hopefully work but I'd suggest checking any connection problems first
and watch for smoke !!

Just remembered I took a pic of tail light back when I was fixing it
Looking at it I see I made a mistake
The cables with the pink dots say
"side and tail"
when they should say "side and brake"
I cant recall which is which right now and cant check because my vans in the shop
but the side should be numbered V13/V12 if the diagrams are to be trusted

If it were mine and just to satisfy myself
I'd probably get a couple of meters of cable for a flying lead and do a continuity test
between the V12 and V13 terminals on the tail lights and the fuse sockets with fuse removed
if you do get continuity from the light to the fuse, at least it will confirm you're tracking in the right area
and then find out why there is no power
No promises but these diagrams may help
I made guesses about your vans spec when selecting them
I based them on Plain SWB van, LHD with XUD engine


