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unrelated to you timing belt change, but most definitely worth taking a look at is the EGR valve. When they play up, smoke from the rear is what happens. Best option is to disable it (easy job) and see what effect it has on your issue.
follow this thread to learn more...> https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … php?id=715
Yes, it's still on the road and just passed another MOT, I love my Mk1.
So my issue is the speedo drops to zero once a day or so for a few mins, then pops back to normal. I have managed using a scanner to verify that the signal drops out, so this (I believe) rules out that the instrument cluster to be at fault. This in my logic leaves the sensor or the wiring to be the suspects. I cannot find the location of the speed sensor! if anybody can guide me to the general location, I'd be most grateful.
James
Just another thought...
Could it be a weak lift pump in the fuel tank? (Assuming these vehicles have one)
Please let us know if you resolve
Hi
Re: 2004 1.9D dispatch (WJY)
Long story, but I've managed to break off the electrical component of the EGR valve. 
This Obviously results in the 'K' light illuminating!
I am hoping I can fit a passive resistor to the end of the the plug and trick the ECU that the component is still there...
I just need somebody who would be willing to unplug that component and tell me what the internal resistance of the EGR valve is.
Big thanks in advance
James
Yes,
I installed one made by a company called hawk about two years ago. Best thing I every did!
If I remember correctly, it had several wiring diagrams of the typical setup on cars. I recall that the system on our van holds both terminals of the actuators to ground when idle. Therefore, if you want to send a positive pulse, there needs to be a break in the feed from the oem wiring or you get a short! I found out the hard way.
I made all my connections at the BSI module which is found under the steering wheel to the right behind the cubby hole.
Ask me some specific question and I'll try to help
James
Hi,
Re: 2004 1.9D dispatch (WJY)
Just wondered if anybody has experience removing the Injectors. I need to replace one of mine. I've not yet identified which one it is, I'll do that during the swap.
My biggest question is whether the Injectors can be removed without removing in inlet manifold?
Thanks
James
Excellent - really helpful - thank you
Hi,
On a 2004 dispatch, does anyone know of the exact location of the engine code identifier?
Thanks
I'd love to upload a picture, but I don't seam to be able to figure out how... 
I used an angle grinder
Awesome... Thank you.
Since this van is my way of earning money, I got desperate. I guessed that was the location and have already exposed, removed & confirmed that the solonoid was infact the source of my woe.
I'll be ordering new one today from my motor factors
Cheers
Mine is a 2004 model
SO relived - problem solved.
The fuel cut-off solenoid was sticking in the off position , but only when cold, massive curve ball!
I could either remove entire pump or cut away the metal casing to access the solenoid in situ , cutting is messy, but far easier! OK for an older vehicle.
Hopefully image will upload
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1s3ULG … oan1VLJXeh - or just view here
Thanks for your suggestions and input
James
Hello
I highly suspect my fuel stop solenoid is to blame for my non starting van
an old post suggests it can be removed without removing the entire pump by Simply breaking off a bit of shielding
however I really don't know where exactly the fuel stop solenoid is located if somebody is able to provide detailed description or even better a picture I would be very grateful
James
Wow- interesting read....
I thought the whole pump needed removing to change the solenoid. Mine is having cold starting issues (no fuel delivered) and highly suspect the stop solenoid is sticky in the cold.
Can you share in more details how you changed solenoid and how you broke armor
Pictures would be great
take a look under the passenger side dash, you will see the blower unit and there is a connection on the underside of it. mine over heated at this connection and the connection broke down. I totally removed the plastic connector block and connectors. Soldered on standard spade type and all was well
Update: (not good)
so, the cold has returned to Kent... and my van would not start at all today.
Things is have checked -
Glow plugs(GP).. I actually 'hot wired' the GP directly to the battery with jump leads, so i could totally rule out supply issues - The glow plugs have been replaced.
Fuel: I cracked open the fuel line to number one injector, made sure the joint was properly opened and there is NO fuel being delivered to injector!
The manual fuel primer pump required only two presses to become firm
know facts...
Lack of fuel is not related to time , i can leave van all weekend and it will start on the button
Lack of fuel is 100% linked to the temperature, as soon as the temp drops, the engine becomes harder to start and when frosty, it wont start at all.
I am at a loss as to why lower temps result in fuelling issues, any thoughts would be very welcome!
James
Incidentally I have a 2004 dispatch and it does not lock rear doors after 30 seconds..
I guess this is one of the subtle differences between manufacturers. 
The location is under steering wheel to the right there is a removable panel. It has a little shelf built into it. Take this off and you will find module there
Be warned, that this module is integral to the engine being allowed to run and if you simply unplug you will find van won't run. So be careful with meddling around with it!
James
Bleeding may help , but all sounds like the clutch is nearly worn out. As the clutch wears usually the pedal pressure increases and the clutch releases right at the full extent of pedal travel .
I did wonder if it was a sign of clutch wear... My brains logic made me think the biting point would get nearer the top until finally slipping.
I will still try bleeding system - it won't take long and I don't have anything to loose!
I changed the brake and clutch fluid in my convoy as it was black and had water in it. The difference was staggering. If you have no history then i would try that first. Unsure where you bled the clutch fluid but i would look at the slave cylinder first.
Renewing the fluid is an excellent idea! I can clearly see the bleed nipple on the gearbox, but am struggling to find and identify the slave cylinder (no idea what it would look like
) a little help would be good!
Question1: Does this circuit share the brake fluid reservoir ?
Question2: Purge technique? OPen nipple, depress clutch, close nipple - ie, same as a brake system?
Thanks
HI,
Re: dispatch 2004 1.9D
I've started to find engaging first gear quite hard esp. when cold. with the clutch to the floor i can gently grind the reverse gears together which proves (to my mind) the gearbox input shaft is not 100% free running, but still getting a bit of drive from the engine. The biting point is very close to the floor.
I've been told these are hydraulic clutches and therefore not adjustable
Any thoughts or experience on this issue would be most welcome!
James
Dont start it when the light goes out wait till you hear the relay click
Update:
I've only had one frosty morning to try these ideas out. Previously (for many winters) i would start a few seconds after heater light goes out. But as suggested i waited 30 seconds before crank. amazingly it started right up! if this is my fix, i will be very happy.... I need a few more frosty mornings to confirm result. Currently raining hard this morning here in Kent.
thank you for speedy reply - I had read the previous post- However, since i get a good voltage to the glow plugs ,I assume the entire relay system is working just fine. I will try your trick of waiting a long time for the pugs to really cook. obviously i will need to wait for another cold snap for this to be tested - van started on turn of key this mild morning
QUESTION: why does a small temp drop from 4 Celsius to 2 Celsius have such a profound impact? (see original post)
Hi ,
I,m hoping somebody can help with this fault
My van is a 1.9D 04 plate dispatch
If the night temp gets to about 4 degrees the van starts on the button - perfect! 
If the night temp is 2 degrees or less, I'm in trouble! it simply cranks and cranks with no sign of life for up to two minutes, then suddenly without hesitation it runs.
Things i have done/checked...
*Glow plugs replaced
*Voltage across plugs during heating is 11.0 Volts (measured directly from plug to block)
*Voltage across plugs during cracking is 8.5 Volts
*I own my own scanner - no faults
*During cranking the engine is turning at a good speed, so battery is in good shape
any thoughts or suggestions would be very welcome
Hi,
I suspect my ECU may be the cause of some odd behaviour, however I don't know if I can simply swap in a new one without coding or immobiliser problems.
Any advice would be very welcome.
James