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Well, that could have been a solution, but the sound from the engine is nerve wracking when the solenoid is disconnected. It has been working fine for a while now, but I still don’t know how it works. And when it comes back…
Does anyone know how this solenoid actually work? What does it do inside the pump? I need to know, because it's driving me nuts!!! I have a problem that comes and goes, and I have tried "everything" to fix it. The engine light comes on, and the engine sounds like the valves are about to jump out. Traced it to the advance solenoid, because if I disconnect it while the engine is running normally the sound appears with the engine light. I have taken the solenoid out and tested it, and it clicks inside it. Put it back into the pump, and it can work for some minutes... or days... or not at all. But suddenly it's back... rattling and the amber glow of the engine light...
I really need some help here, guys.
Lifting this thread… My old girl har developed a diesel knock, with the engine management light turning on. Tried to disconnect the lift sensor, and the sound is unchanged. Also if I disconnect the yellow connector on the ECU, nothing happens. Haven’t tried anything else yet. The problem started as a intermittent issue, but has moved on to be more or less permanent. Any ideas as to where I should start looking_
Yeah, but I am still a bit puzzled as to how a dodgy alternator could create the symptoms my engine had...
A little update... new alternator in place and charging is OK!
And as a bonus the problem with powerloss is still gone. Looks like the alternator was the culprit all the time... strange..?
Funny thing... I have posted earlier about the feeling of intermittent powerloss... Now that I have been driving for a few days without a functional alternator, that spesific problem is completly gone!? WTF!?! Could it be that the alternator have had som funny voltage issues for a while, before it died, and that this has affected the ECU and in turn the advance on the diesel-pump? (DW8B) New alternator is due to arrive tomorrow, and will be fitted during the weekend. It will be very interesting to see if those poblems re-appear...
Had the same problem on mine. Turned out to be the rod from the central locking device inside the door. A slight adjustment there, and VOILA! Never been a problem since.
My trusty old van decided to quit charging yesterday, and in the process the heaterfan stopped. Checked the belt, and it is OK. At high revs the charge light flickers a little bit, but doesn't go out. Gave the alternator a dose of WD40 and called it the day.
This morning I started the van, an after a couple seconds the charge light went out, and everything was working fine. Parked the car at work and let it idle for a minute while I measured the voltage. It was between 13.5V and 14.5V, before I heard a click. The heaterfan died, and the charge light came back on.
So is it some french safety-circuit thingy gone crazy, or is it just a faulting alternator on its way to die?
(...and why oh why do these things have to happen in the middle of the winter???)
Probably a simple question, but where is the fuse for the ECU on my 2003 MK1 (DW8)
Can a leak in one of the leak-off lines cause engine studder or other running problems on a DW8? Where does the leak-off line go? Back to the tank... into the filter, or back into the pump? If it goes back to the pump, could a leak cause air to enter the pump, an in turn cause problems?
So to be clear, John... is it the bolt in front of the top rail you spaced out? The one over the cab-lining? Sorry for being a little slow... 
Seems odd to me that spacing the door out at the bottom by 4-6mm would help but it did.
You got a picture of that, mate? Got the same problem on my van...
Maybe the flower wagon should make the trip across the pond one day…
Thanks mate. Does that help to bring the door into alignment too_
Is something missing here, and if so- what?


The old girl passed MOT with flying colors, so we just had to celebrate... Spring is in the air, with flowers EVERYWHERE

Hi.
I'm thinking about a rebuild of the exhaust on my van, from the standard long version, to the short one with the outlet on the side of the car. Anyone done this? I would greatly appreciate pictures of the short system, if anyone of you could provide.
Found the reason yet? Just chippin' in that my 2009 Skoda TDI does the same, by design. Here I can turn it off by disabling ESP, so maybe it is made this way by design on your car as well...


I went for full blown xenons. A friend of mine had a hi/lo xenon-kit lying around. The difference is very noticeable, and very easy to get in place.
This has been a busy weekend, but the van is now ready for the winter. The old girl has got an engine heater, xenon lights and oil change. Today she got her winter shoes on… We’re ready… I think.
There are two types/sizes of clutches. One is 220mm in diameter, and the other is 215mm. Wich do I use? Could of course take out the old one and measure...
The thrust bearing of my car is shot, and I am about to go through a clutch change. Trouble is that it seem to be at least two kinds of gearboxes on these cars. Mine is a 2003 1.9d WJY engine. What kind of gearbox do I have?
Glow plugs are brand new. Put in a nearly new 110AH battery just the other day.
Hope this works... The ticking sound in my dieselpump after turning on the ignition.
Vaz, as long as it is a normal sound, I am good. Still looking for reasons of the intermittent loss of power, so anything that seems out of the ordinary is a subject of suspicion.