You are not logged in.
Hi again.
Things just keep happening with cars soon 30 years of age.
My blower unit works perfectly fine a heats perfectly fine but I can't get it to go into defroster mode, ie blowing upwards. It changes fine between legs and front.
I've taken the lower dash off and checked the wire going from the control to the mechanism and the mechanism seem to work.
Does anyone have any tips or do I have to remove the blower unit totally and check the flap?
Changed battery and voila, it started.
Took her to the repair shop to have some other things fixed and when they tried to start it taking it out of the garage, it wouldn't start again. Starter seems to work just fine when it works, but somehow either something is draining the battery or the engine is not grounded enough.
I took the battery to ground cable off and brushed everything at the same time I changed the battery, so I can't say if it was the battery or the grounding.
But as it came back afterwards, it probably wasn't any of them.
The mechanics gonna take a look at it.
Yeah, they seem to do. Tough I havn't found that kit anywhere good online. Should be OE 1980G6
They seals can be bought at autodoc, searching the parts numberg.
2 is OE 198105
4 is OE 198102
It's really no money, being around €1 for the copper ones and €3 for the steel ones.
Also found a fairly good video of someone changing the seals, but seems he only changes the steel one,
https://youtu.be/qd3x_TWpr1M?si=TASF9TMcLFb4pc8R
While I'm at it I think I'll change the fuel return pipes and plug as well.
12 is 127509
13 is 157363
Onto my next project, I'm thinking of changing the injector seals as I can clearly see mine has been or is leaking some.
It probably wouldn't hurt in any case.
But looking at this image, I can see bothe 2 and 4 are seals.

Checking the oe numbers, one seem to be of copper and the other one steel.
Should I change both while I'm at it or is the copper seals enough?
Changed wheel cylinders. Was quite an easy task. Found loads of them at auto doc.
They sit with two 10mm nuts. Break pipe connects with an 11mm nut. Be sure to clean them nuts properly with a wire brush and cleaning spray/rust remover before trying to move them. Also make sure your break pipe doesn’t move with the nut. (I missed this but seemed to be able to bend them back)
Remove old, mount new et voila.
2004-2007 would be MkII? But the sills are the same aren’t they?
Fuse location?

My spare car won’t start. Thought it was the battery as when I tried to start all I could hear were some clicking noises from the engine bay but the starter wouldn’t crank.
Hooked up a starter pack to the battery, same sound, no cranking.
Had problems with the starter pack before so I charged the battery for 10h and tried again, no cranking, just clicking.
Am I right to believe that my starter motor i bad?
I’ll check the fuses first, but other than that I’m clueless.
Solenoid, is that the same as start relay? If so, is it situated in the fuse box behind the battery? Could dona swap with my working van.
The pipe is definately the one coming from the tap off valve on the fuel filter housing. It’s not supposed to go anywhere
How the f#ck do I get the top shelf off???
I tried taking the top lining off, everything seemed to go well and it was loose all around the top shelf but it was stuck under the top shelf.
Ive found no manual explaining it.
I found four small covers inside the top shelf and took them off, but it revealed nothing except a pin which the lining was attached to.
I didn't want to use any more force unless Im sure there's no screws Im missing
Hi!
I might be stupid or lazy, but how does the hand break adjuster work?

In the pictures left, theres a nut I can adjust, but this does only affect the left wheel handbreak.
Is there something in the right part of the adjuster that I can adjust?
Here's a picture of everything removed exept the wheel cylinder.

So, this is what i looks like, drum removed. Looks as if my shoes are in quite good condition, Service Manual says at least 1,5mm and I think its about 8mm left on mine.
Cleaned with brake cleaner and brushed everything off. Lubricated the auto adjuster and checked function.

Pulled the handbreak in the car, suddenly it went through five or six notches so obviously something I did have effect.
Pu GF behind the wheel and asked her to brake. Everything seemed to work. Started engine, telling her to push the break again and the wheel cylinder turned into a fountain. Gasked popped instantly and squirted break fluid in a nice arch.
Ordered new wheel cylinders.
Drum removal problem fixed.
The swedish proverb, "If force doesn't work, use more force" came in handy.
In my case, there were no catches or anything, I just hammered around the drums' rim with a screwdriver and eventually it came loose.
Edit: Also, in some videos they show that you can access the auto adjuster through the nut holes. On this car, you don't. In the Ulysses Manual, theres a hole in the drum covered by a rubber cover but I didn't have that either. If you don't have that hole, don't bother try.
Now trying to fix the two original problems.
1 Uneven break force on rear axis
2 Parking break, rear right, no function.
To fix the break force, surely all that is needed is to adjust the breaks? Maybe adjusters are broken? They seem to work fine using a flathead screwdriver, when the drums are off. But how do I measure the force?
I'll get under the van later today, if this rain is stopping.
My issue at the moment is that I cannot remove the drum from the wheel.
Fiddling with the drum, I can get if off about 7mm on the upper side, this makes the drum stick and it won't turn the wheel. When pushing it back, the wheel spins.
Will try to loosen the tension on the handbreak and try to remove them again.
Also, I will try to find the adjuster wheel with a flathead screwdriver. Read somwhere it's about 1 oclock.
Having a sprained back as well, I'll probably be staying under the van for some time. :-)
Hi!
Meet Lancaster (named the white one York), my newly aquired Jumpy 1998 1,9TD. Same year and model as the first one. Got her off some bloke for €500 including a set of winter tyres.
Originally bought as a spare parts car, I realized, upon driving it home, it had AC, which York doesn't have.
Took Lancaster to the swedish MOT yesterday resulting in four remarks.
-Left beam to high (crap remark as they had the tools in the shop)
-Right headlight loose (some white plastic thingy apparently fell out from the fastener. Bought a new used headlight from the scrapper for €37,50
-Something minor
-No brakes in the rear.
From the start, I felt the parking brake was really stiff. Pulling all that I can I can hardly pull it to the first click. MOT guy said there was no breaks using the the parking break. Former owner claims the rear brakes was changed last year
Now I'm thinking it must be the wheel cylinders. As I have York I'm not i a hurry fixing Lancaster so I decided to disassemle the rear brakes. I've watched some youtube videos of how the rear brakes work but I havn't found a guide how to exactly do them on a Jumpy/Dispatch.
I've removed the wheel and tried to yank the drum off, when I started, the drum would spin, but the more I tried, the more stiff it got. Seemingly hitting the drum with a rubber mallet made the brake work. Seeing somewhere that I should loosen the hand break wire I got under the car and looked for the adjuster
Looking at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MzV7bIVdnM I thought it would be easy.
But then looking under mine it looks like this:
How do I get the drum off?
Do I need to loosen anything from the hand break and if so, how?
Thanks!
I can't see any leakage when I've been parked either at work or at home, being parked on asphalt i would se some evidence. Im parked in a basement garage at work.
Regarding the oil, what I could see upon changing it was that it was quite black of soot but I think that's quite expected when changing.
But surely the coolant level can't go from filled to lights on in 2000km? Something must be wrong?
In my 2012 skoda I've never even thought about coolant levels and I've had it since it came from.the factory.
Back to the jumpy. I'm thinking of changing the timing belt. Mostly because I don't think its been done and its at 280 000km now... Want to enjoy the van a bit.longer
A change at the shop.is around €1100 which is far more than I bought it.for but now I'm getting quite attached to it.
Hi...
Upon buying my van, I did a service on it. Oil change and topped up the coolant (also changed the glow plugs).
For some time, I've not experienced it having much of a trouble starting and I havn't experienced any white smoke upon startup.
Now it's back though. Also, the coolant level light turned on a couple of days ago. It disappeared almost immediately but I checked it anyway. It seems I've lost quite some coolant.
The manual says it should be between the minimum and maximum marks, but a can't really see any such marks.

Is the red marking the max and the blue marking the min level? In that case I've lost almost all in driving about 2000km, seems a bit excessive eh?
I've never reached 90 centigrades on the thermometer so it seems it still cools well.
How do a check if coolant is leaking into engine and how do I stop it from doing it?
I read in the other white smoke/trouble starting thread about loosing three bolts on the pump pulley and turning the pump and this should fix the trouble. I'm happy giving it a try but I'm lost as to where this pulley is and how to turn the pump.
Can anyone help by marking them out on this picture?

I found an aftermarket remote central locking unit which I am thinking of fitting.
This one, (subtitles in english)
I read in the comments of the product that some people experienced only being able to use one button, for locking and unlucking.
Also, I've read on this forum that the dispatch/jumpy/scudo/expert uses just one polarity for locking/unlocking i.e. 12v on or off.
Where is this "H bridge affair" to be found? Is it in the lock?
Do you know where the control box is situated?
Did it? Thinking of this myself.
Jeez.. You've got steering wheel controls? I've got a MkI, you'd be happy to get a steering wheel. :-)
Thanks for the info. I'll browse around.
What android unit did you get.
Loads at Amazon, strange reviews. What does work?
In the 90s I had Ford Transit - version for Finland. It had two washer pump also. Bigger for the front lamp, both worked at one time. I disconnected for a few months this one on the lamps. Thick tube, efficient pump, every time working with the sprinkler front glass.
Buy the reservoir with one pump and forget about the problem.
I bought the Volvo pump today. Will try to fit it tomorrow but it looks identical to the eye. It was €18. It it fits, I don't need to buy a new reservoir. I'll report back.
Oscarklemo wrote:Have you tried using some sort of injection cleaner? Made a huge difference on mine.
What did you use? Might give it a go on mine
I used STP Total Cleaner and STP Injection Cleaner.
First I felt the engine was quicker and ran much better. On the second clean my turbo started working.
Dunno if it was just placebo. I also tried sooting it out with high revs before changing gear, given I don't really know what it was that worked. But it sure as hell didn't make it worse.