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Would running the higher octane (Super) diesel (such as BP Ultimate) help out? Seems if you are saving a bunch of money you could use better quality diesel with the SVO to help in the burning and to keep down carbon deposits, etc.
One Meth (well, eth) lab in my back yard, coming up!
If its eth I guess a bottle of Poitin could be made once in a while, obviously not using the same kit unless you want to go blind (and die). 
I'm guessing you will need to improvise something for now. I did a quick search and I can't find any, full stop, anywhere. 
Could you not just turn it into biodiesel if not. I used to make it myself 13 years ago when i was doing a renewables course and learnt the process. I would then cut the end product with regular diesel 50/50.
Used to make it in an oil drum in 50L batches. Its really easy if you are methodical. Basically it boils down to putting meths and lye together, heating up the veg oil and mixing everything together then leaving it to separate. Just keep records. But then in the four years i ran my old fiesta on that 50/50 mix I never once got stopped and tested, nor did anyone come knocking on my door.
As a side hustle (if you did make it), you can take the glycerin by-product and use it to make scented soap that could be flogged on ebay or just given to anyone who wants it. I used to make lavender soap using lavender I would grow in the garden, which i then extracted and then mixed with the glycerin. Easy Christmas gifts from a waste product that you might have thrown away.
That ghetto airbox is very sweet. Looks like a K&N filter.
What size alternator did you manage to get in?
What are those two bars for? They were rusting on mine before I cleaned them up and painted them.
The bushes didn't look too good on mine either but they should go a little longer.
If you know what its actually called you could try here.
https://www.mister-auto.co.uk/peugeot/e … 2003-2006/ - not sure if this is your vehicle.
Funnily enough it isn't on the ridges AFAIK. There is about a 5mm gap. The panel has four angle brackets on it, two per side. They then sit on the roof. I put a good dollop of stixall under them and a good dollop on top of them. I don't think they will be going anywhere.
The only holes I drilled out where for the roof vent and the gland box. The roof vent I used a 80mm holesaw, which was a pig, but as soon as i realised that lubricating the cut area made it easier, it didn't take as long. The gland box I just used the biggest metal drill bit I had, about 15mm I think and ran the cables through it. On my last van the only thing that ever leaked on the roof was the skylight, even after spending hours faffing with butyl tape, it still leaked. This one I won't be having a skylight, so its fine. 
Today I have started on the floor tiles. I have also, kind of, finished the (comedy) bed frame off, but it still needs plywood attaching to the outside of the frame and some partitions on the inside. The toilet now fits under it.
I need to do the roof insulation tomorrow as I have been putting it off.
What is the timing belt interval for one of these vans? 60k?
Since I will have to get it fitted by a garage I might just see how much they would charge for one and let them handle sourcing it. Is it worth getting the water pump done at the same time, or leave it?
A small update. Did the solar panel and roof vent last week before it went to the garage. Never posted a picture of it in case anyone wanted a look. So here it is. The cables between the panel and gland box will be tidied up in the next few days. The panel is only glued on with Stixall for now, as it isn't the final panel. It's an interim solution. When i have the budget to do it, I will pick up a 295w Perlight panel and replace the current one with it..
On the DW10 it simply pushes on to the hose below, similar to how my old Punto's air box connected to the engine. Couldn't find any clips, but they might have existed at some point.
I am going to have a look at the bottom of the engine. I believe the plate with the VIN and engine code is on the nearside bottom, near the oil sump. I will go and find out exactly which model it is, but I think its the RHZ. To find parts so far, I have to admit ECP is still the best for detection. You put the reg plate in and it works. According to it, their is only one timing belt model that fits it, but they only do SKF, Inna and Dayco belts, but only had the SKF ones. I would rather pay a little more and get the Gates one with the 5 year warranty.
So I tried the easy one first and unplugged the MAF sensor. Took it out for a drive and touch wood, the smoke while going up hills has gone. Have ordered a new one. As it stands I could happily drive it like this indefinitely. The lack of acceleration while going up hills is mostly moot.
As for removing the airbox, i feel like a dunce. It pulls off.
The boost pressure solenoid is currently covered in oil from something. I am going to get it off later when it stops raining and clean it up. If its leaking from somewhere I will probably replace that too. The MAF should arrive Tuesday and all being well when its on that should get rid of the problem.
Is their any weird way to unplug the battery on these vans. I've heard that you have to go through some ritual whenever you change or disconnect/reconnect the batteries on sevel van.
Is this Gates Timing Belt the one I need for my van?
Thanks. You are one person i hoped might reply. Your youtube videos are extremely good and the one with the square box sections behind the rear bumper mirrors a problem I also have with them. It seems you have taken apart and rebuilt a lot more than most everyone on here.
Tomorrow, once I get the van back I will have a poke around. I have one dumb question. How do you get the air box out? Is it clipped in somehow? I tried to get it off when I changed the filter out a couple of weeks back after finding the hose from the pressure sensor hanging off. I couldn't work out where it was clipped or bolted down and no amount of pulling seemed to free it.
As for the EGR, I would like to blank it if possible and yes I know it voids the MOT and if its found out its an instant fail. But if its a major pain to get to, I don't see any mechanic spending the time to take the engine apart to get at it.
Thanks for your suggestions, John. I will update the thread tomorrow or Sunday with what has been tested. i do hope its that sensor. I might also charge the battery given your experiences, as it was registering at 12v last week when i stuck the multimeter on it. Its easy enough to put it on charge overnight.
And its back to the drawing board.
The mechanic I use has had it for a couple of days and thinks the wastegate valve is stuck open. So I have done some research, watched a bunch of youtube videos, studied the DW10 specs, especially the EGR section and plan to do two things to it myself.
1) Find the Turbo Pressure Valve / Wastegate Solenoid and unclip the electrics from it which according to my research should make the ECU think the sensor is no longer faulty (if it is faulty). If that solves the problem, then buy a new sensor and fit it.
2) Find the wastegate actuator on the turbo, disconnect the vacuum hose and try testing it by flicking the actuator into the closed position and placing my thumb over the hose nipple. If it stays sealed after releasing the actuator, then the wastegate isn't sticking, nor losing pressure.
If neither of these fix it, then check all the sensors and if still broken, then it might be a loom issue. I have no idea where to begin if its that indepth.
Failing all of that I might try and find a garage that services the Expert Taxis. They are going to know better than anyone how to fix the issue.
Its one of the pluses of my van I guess. It came with A/C and it seems to work ok too. The tint thing for me will probably be revisited at some point. But for now I have other issues.
Well it looks like the garage is struggling to find the reason why the turbo has low boost. If it hasn't been found by tomorrow I will probably pull the van back home. Order a copy of Lexia and the cables from ebay and maybe replace the Turbo pressure solenoid, which i believe is the wastegate solenoid. It's £35 for one on ebay. No idea where it is located, but guessing its somewhere behind the engine where the EGR and turbo are.
I believe its the EGR page in the DW10 Spec, component number 4 on the diagram. That would be my first guess. At least that's what a lot of sites say might be the cause. Checking it requires causing an open circuit, which I guess means unplugging the power connector.
@tee_cee, which Lexia/Diagbox is sufficient. Can I get the v7.83 which seems quite old. Like below?
Lexia3/PP2000 Diagbox V7.83 Interface Diagnostic OBD2 Chip For Citroen Peugeot
I suppose that's the difference. My van will be somewhere I sleep. Besides that I will spend as little time in it as possible. obviously in Winter that will change, but i'm not full timing.
J
Pathfinder100 wrote:What you do now will save you down the line. Welding is expensive.
Whilst I don't disagree, here is a tip from the transit owner forum:
1. Buy a second hand mig for about £50.
2. Find a washing machine that is on the street for uplift, or been fly-tipped and either take the plate cover. Or throw it in your van, and dump it at the tip when you got the plate off.
3. Buy the gas and wire needed for your welding. Do some practise on the plate until you can at least manage some bird-sh*t welds.
4. Get old speakers and salvage the magnets for holding your plate to the van before you tack-weld it in place.
5. Weld your van in the required areas.
6. Sell the mig as.used for £50.
Cost? Price of the wire, gas, and fuel.
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Yeah i already have MIG, have had for years. It was more an assumption of if you didn't have one or know how to weld. But it seems many on here do. A friend said to me long ago, anyone can weld with a MIG, the welds will redefine the word shit, but most of the time they will hold and do the job. I tried to learn Arc a few years back and still intend to get that done at some point.
All vans have issues, even new ones. Be glad you managed to avoid the Transit. My one failed MOT a couple of months back and they wanted 1800 to repair it. I flogged it and bought an Expert, that also has problem, just not as bad problems. On mine no real maintenance seems to have been done for a while, so the entire engine was caked in dust, the oil hadn't been changed in a while and it has an issue with the turbo. not to mention the power steering fluid leak and the smell of diesel on the underside.
At a guess, the smear on yours is where the oil came out of the rocker box after a previous owner probably overfilled it. I had similar on an old fiesta some years back. As you say a gasket is cheap. Taking the rocker box top off isn't hard either, just time consuming. A split o-ring is also cheap to fix. I'd fix the brakes issue because that is a critical component.
My other suggestion, is if you don't have a set of cheap ramps (and maybe axle stands and a decent trolley or bottlejack), invest and see how much rust you can find on the underside. Then wire brush it, paint it and seal it, paying special attention to the sills. What you do now will save you down the line. Welding is expensive.
As for the door issue, mine all open and close, but the central locking only work on the front doors, but that isn't a big thing for me. As long as two doors work its fine. But most of them don't freely open or close.
In this country it is less relevant. But when you are driving down a road in the arse end of Spain and its 35C outside and the sun is beating down, that's when you appreciate them the most. It makes driving so much easier. The same at night when the HID numps are blasting you in the face, it makes a difference. Anything more than 20% isn't useful, unless you are a drug dealer or just want the privacy.
For general use, I think 10-20% on the front and front side windows is sweet. If I get mine done it will be professionally. Ideally i would like it the same level as my parents C4 Picasso. It is pretty sweet to drive and the glare is reduced quite a lot.
Of course it's not for everyone.
I was thinking of taking mine down to about a 20% tint. If mine is tinted, it isnt by much.
This is something i will need to do at some point. A new windscreen is a lot, second hand windscreens can generally be had for around £50-100 on ebay. Unfortunately at some point in the past, a previous owner got a chip and did a bodge job on it. It will probably pass the MOT with it, but i find it really annoying. It's at the bottom of the screen in the middle. At some point I will rip the screen off and put one without any damage in its place. maybe also have a protective coating put on it.
Do any of you have tinted windows?
What you say kind of confirms what I thought. In the end the only way forward is to leave respirators behind and move to an air fed system running from a compressor.
For now I can try different masks. I hope to not need to go to ABEK level for a while. Once I've completed this round of usage, then i won't be using anything toxic again, for a while. Most of the painting I do is by brush and using far less toxic paint. Just an odd few things need something a bit stronger. 
Thanks for the advice, its been useful.
It sure makes the vehicle side of the electrics a hell of a lot easier.
I now have the roof vent and gland box on order. I hope to have the solar panel glued down on Friday, the gland box installed and the solar cables down to that pillar and any cables for lighting put in place ready for when that happens. Then over the weekend, attempt the the stretch carpet trim. Tomorrow is bed building day. I basically want the vast majority of the basic side of the build done by next Wednesday, so i can get a holiday in it before summer ends.
What that means in reality is bed, toilet, cooker and water storage. If I have some basic power and lights too, that would be sweet.
If I had more cash I'd buy a cheap compressor, filter, regulator and a decent airhood. That would probably be the ideal solution. Long term I will definitely look into it. But it's not in budget for now.
I am considering the 3M 6000 half face from Screwfix. £20 for the mask, £17 for ABEK1 filters, £9 for P3R particulate filters (to go on the ABEK1's).
I literally use these filters no more than once in a year or so. Mainly for spray painting and Isopon Filler work. I have asthma and most solvent/polymer/resin smells aggravate it. I need something that works well. Most of the time the mask will be running P3R filters or A2P3.