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I would have thought that with all your electrical gear that you would need a lot of battery power. Especialy if you intend to use an inverter for anything.
The cheapest ones seem an expensive risk and the known branded ones are far too expensive. I will just have to stick with lead acid I think.
its not noticeable however.
Not till your 6' 2" mate gets in. 
When I bought mine the whole front end was covered with red flowers. Not as varied or as colourful as yours though.
They had to go but as a survivor of 60's flower power, I did leave just one small one low down just behind the front wheel.
Any recomendations for CHEAP gell bateries?
Apparently retired hospital ones can sometimes be found?
Thanks for the update. Glad you are sorted.
I wonder if perhaps a slightly thicker set of pads than standard had been fitted. I don't think it's normal to have to adjust the push rod for new pads. Never had to do it myself and I use every mm.
I gather the rocking back and forth thing is worn brushes on the starter motor, but that seems unrelated to the dash lights situation
If not the brushes, it could be the armature is dirty from arcing. If so rub it back till shiny.
Also, it could be the drive which engages the starters gear to he flywheel sticking. Old fashioned method was a bendix drive which threw the gear into engagement along a spiral groove. The groove could get clogged up.
I believe more modern way is pre engaged, not sure what if these vans use?
I am realy not good at this but as they are all in bed, I will go for shut down solanoid.
Doesn't sound good.
Have you checked your hoses? I would suspect at the bottom or at least low down.
It could be that a hose connection cane loose or sprung a sizable leak and it heated up as the water got lower. As the rad approached empty it cooled and the gauge dropped although the engine was still getting hotter.
Currently in N Yorks, will be back at Tibbies at some point in the next few weeks.
Also thinking of a trip across your way in summer. Eyemouth to Aberdeen. Hoping it may be a bit quieter as the west and north will again be overrun with Winnebago Warriors.
Spooky. When i posted that ^^ it was my 2000th post
Funny that, I didn't notice.
I was far too distracted by the spliff temperature gauge.
But guys, do you run your cars on veg without ANY modifications at all? Do you even use the standard, toy-like ful filter?
Mine with no mods.
Mostly in Scotland or northern England, sounds similar to you with only occasional extreme cold. Just a few liters of diesel in worst of winter.
I like the idea of a controlled pre heat. Any concerns re it taking a while to warm and taking increased electrical load at exactly the worst moment?
Obviously your climate is considerably colder than ours in the UK but I have had no problems so long as I dilute with diesel as the temperature drops. Not very scientific, but if sub zero is expected I will put 15 - 20 lt diesel to a full tank of veg oil. Good for our usual low single figure frosts. When dropping to -10 or less it will still start, but sounds so lumpy for quite a while that I avoid when possible.
Ken I think runs neat veg but has a small secondary tank of diesel for starting up. If I could be bothered this is what I would go for. I am sure he will be along with a few details.
Interesting, thanks for posting updates.
Mine is I believe built 97, first reg 98.
Would tapping into the fuel line further up not work.
It would work but having a separate tank for the heater would allow for different fuel mix. I don't know how good the heater would be on almost neat veg oil.
it does have a thermal cut off but its not great.
This one's thermal cut out wasn't great either:-

A lot of Chinese electronics are lethal. But at least they are cheap. 
Dono if all the same but the 10lt one is 8cm thick and about 40 square.
Cheers, that is about the space I have. Means running a feed all the way to the front but not much different to running from the tank I suppose.
Does nobody here have windows to admire the scenery? That's the biggest reason I added more to mine
You know there is. 
Probably less of an essential if you are away on a break or holiday when you are likely to be out and about. Bit different when living in a van and potentially sitting through days, even weeks of bad weather.
Also it depends where you stop I suppose. For myself, if it were a place where I felt the need for "security", I would go somewhere else. That's the advantage of wheels, you can choose your neighbors. And, if you have windows, your view.
Strange that they give no indication of safe clearances.
I would expect an inch or two to be ok but it would be nice to have manufacturers recommendation.
I meant the overall thickness of the tank Casper, looks about 2-3 "?
Looks like it's the LCD controller that dictates those Vevor prices.
I think only the smallest would fit under my front seat and that would be dependent on required clearances around it.
I have resisted fitting one until now but crazy gas prices have converted me. Hopefully veg oil prices might not rocket so much but we do get a lot from Ukraine I think.
Anyone know how thick the supplied tanks are? I am hoping one might fit in the narrow, otherwise useless gap between cupboard an rear door.
Oh, mine is propane not diesel. I guess the exhaust is odourless, which is nice
Odorless but deadly... nice. 
Cheers for the dimensions.
How much recommended clearance around them?
Only got the 2kw myself for my larger Convoy. I am happy with just the chill out the room but with smaller vans i would say the 5kw is over kill and the two is smaller.
Shouldn't hardly be noticeable heat wise I wouldn't think but would go for 2kw myself as 5kw is likely to be on and off more frequently in shorter bursts. Starting up is the biggest drawback with then I think.
Are the 2kw physically smaller then?
When they first came out I heard of them being advertised as 5 or 2 kw but were just the same and rebadged by some suppliers.
^^ same £190 the whole year with commuting!
That's good John. I am with Flux and think I am over £200 even as an oap!
That's the trouble with just letting it run on each year I think.
My van has no anti roll bar fitted and drives fine round bends and roundabouts. Have you checked the state of the strut on the nearside
Surprised to hear that Joe.
I have no anti roll bar either and it is very noticable. I have driven many older vans over the years and am quite used to the sometimes wallowing feel. With my expert though, it tends to stay level to a point, but once the forces overcome the suspension, it tilts alarmingly and instantly. I have had this van almost 6 years now and it can still catch me out.
Not too bad when there is power on but if cruisin 40 - 50 and caught out by a tighter than expected bend, it can be terrifying. As an ex motorcyclist my instinct is to lean further, Sometimes to the point of hitting my head against the window or almost laying across the passenger seat. It has never lifted a wheel and I am sure it's only the body rolling, but makes you momentarily feel that you are not going to make the corner. Just turn harder though and around it goes.
Not my driving style either. MPG being far more important than MPH for me. Definately among the worst body roll I have experienced. I wonder if there is something wrong with my suspension?
I think if they had bent the shaft you would have noticed vibration right from it being done.
They may have nicked the seal though causing it to eventually leak.
You might be able to glean something from these:-
For comparison - TD version:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304348931552 … Sw51Vh1u7d
I suspect the value of yours might be as much affected by the conversion as the base vehicle. Someone might be more likely to consider the work involved in replacing the belt or the engine knowing that the basic conversion is ready to go.
With the demand for campers, it might be worth trying as a camper for repair before stripping to a work van.