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#276 Maintenance » P0243 WasteGate Solenoid Failure » 2021-07-27 17:11:38

Pathfinder100
Replies: 31

My OBD scanner throws up this error.  It is likely also the reason the van is in limp mode.

So today i decided to have check of the various pipes and hoses that are in between the manifold and turbo.  The first problem i identified was a pipe that was 95% split and was not connected to a nozzle on the main turbo pipe.

mini_IMG_20210727_155049.jpeg

The red circle is where it was hanging off / split and was trimmed and refitted with a new clip.  The red arrow is the sensor it connects to.

The red stop light is still flashing on the dash when ignition is on.

Anyone got any ideas?

#277 Re: Maintenance » Engine Oil » 2021-07-27 17:00:31

Mine didn't come with a manual.  But both ebay and Euro suggest 5w30 or 5w40 as viable options.

#278 Re: Maintenance » Engine Oil » 2021-07-27 16:41:16

Yeah mine is the 2.0 HDi, it requires either 5w30 or 5w40, depending on the site you look at, ideally in the C2/C3 spec, but you can also A3/A4.  As long as its mid saps, fully synthetic.  I'm not worried about the DPF getting clogged at present as it will be changed in the next week or two, but doing a 1-3 weeks oil change and flush could be useful as I suspect an oil change hasn't been done on this van for a while (judging by all the other issues i'm finding).

Anyway i have 10L of Fully Synthetic 5w30 A5 spec oil, perfect for Fiats and Fords (and Land Rovers).

#279 Maintenance » Engine Oil » 2021-07-27 13:52:49

Pathfinder100
Replies: 14

I have some Ford Spec 5w30 Fully Synthetic left over from the Transit.  Would I be ok to use this for short term use in the Expert?  I'm looking to put it in, use the van for a week and drop the oil and replace with ACEA C2 or A4/B4 spec, ie, use the Ford stuff as an engine flush.

#280 Re: Maintenance » Access to Citroen parts site? identifying parts woes using EuroCarPart » 2021-07-27 13:49:56

I haven't found one yet.  I've been getting my stuff from ebay for years and contrary to popular belief none of the parts ever failed.  In fact most of the time they are just as good as the stuff you get from factors, but a hell of a lot cheaper.  i'm afraid your choices are limited at present anyway due to the shortage of parts worldwide.  i asked a local garage if it could find me a fuel pump for a mk7 transit van (new) and they couldn't after calling all the places they normally use.  That was 3 weeks back.  Yesterday they were saying French/Spanish/Italian car parts were like gold dust at the minute.  My dad needs something for his Ducato and they've been searching for a few days.

As for actual part numbers, you need a service manual for the van.  The official one should have complete diagrams of every part including every part number / serial number.  Sometimes if you go to certain pattern part sites you can find the breakdown diagrams with the numbers on them.

One thing I have noticed on ebay, especially for Peugeot parts, there are a few places in Germany that have surplus.

As much as you maybe hate ebay, you might have to use it to find things.  My sister won't use it and she was quoted £500 for a part for her boiler by a gas engineer.  i looked up the same part at Bosch and on ebay and it was a £80 part.  Fitting took 10 mins.  I had a similar part go on a boiler when i lived down South.  The quote for fixing it was £300, I did it myself and got a mate who was an engineer to check it, total cost £55.  You might hate the place, but it is one of the biggest places for vehicle parts in the world.  Either way i wish you luck.

Whatever you do, get under the van and get a picture of the part you need.  Then whichever place you buy from send them the reg of your van and the picture so they can confirm it is the correct part.

#281 Re: Maintenance » Access to Citroen parts site? identifying parts woes using EuroCarPart » 2021-07-26 20:48:50

Don't use Euro for anything asides from filters and maybe lubricants.

Ebay for me, pretty much for everything.  Don't get me wrong, Euro sells some good stuff, things that are named brands, but not batteries or exhausts.  Filters and lubricants, they are fine.  But anything complex, like injectors or water pumps, not a chance.  Get them from ebay or a motor factors place.  Same with exhaust bits.  Get them from ebay.  Go take a picture of the part you are looking for and send a message to a seller asking if they have one for your_vehicle, the year it was made, the engine, the registration.

#282 Re: Camper Conversions » New Expert Build » 2021-07-26 00:21:34

Can't be any worse than driving up the A1 the other day trying to overtake an HGV up a hill, without the turbo functioning.  I managed 63MPH.  Didn't realise the van was essentially in limp mode at the time, anyway that's Tuesdays problem.  I think its the pipe running from the manifold to the turbo.  If it isnt then i will be investing in Diagbox/Lexia and trying to work out what has gone kaput (presumably the turbo).  I have found one for a reasonable price with a 12 month warranty, assuming it fits, not that i'm sure I could fit it.  I'm guessing i would be looking at a big bill to get it done at a garage.  If the quote was high enough i would probably try and do it myself.  Worst case I suppose I could do the legwork of removing everything and then use a mobile mechanic to handle the rest. 

That video is very informative.  I could probably do most of that, but don't have an engine crane/winch.  The thing that would scare me the most is actually making a new loom.  Everything else is undoing things, taking lots of pictures and watching youtube videos.  I do like the idea of having an old school diesel engine, much like my first car which was an E Reg 1.6D Fiesta.  It was a good runner and as long as you dropped the oil every 6 months and replaced the filters it never missed a beat.

#283 Re: Camper Conversions » New Expert Build » 2021-07-24 23:20:09

Day 2: Rust removal / Hammerite.  I have spent a few hours just painting over rust.  The worst part was the metal box section at the rear right and left sides.  its the one that JohnDragon had to rebuild/weld in his Youtube videos.  Thankfully mine is in slightly better shape.  It isnt fully painted yet as the amount of dirt and crap in it took nearly 20 mins to clear and I got bored and went off to paint the spare wheel carrier as I had some neck pain from laying awkwardly.  Eventually i came back and painted it maybe 25%.  Will finish it tomorrow.  Thats the nearside one.  Haven't even touched the offside one, its mega full of crap.

I am also worrying over the turbo problem.  Is it a pipe split between the manifold and turbo, or is the turbo shafted?  That is the question.  A refurbed turbo is sadly far beyond my budget and getting a secondhand one, while affordable may not be a solid fix for the problem.  Could I remove the turbo and turn the engine into a badly configured old school diesel minus the turbo and EGR?  I don't know.  Not to mention the need to remove the exhaust, cat and subframe to get at the Fkr.  I have no pit or lift, but do have axle stands, bottle jacks and ramps.  From what I've seen the sub frame weighs quite a lot.  The job could turn into a large nightmare.  Still after watching a bunch of Youtube videos, it may be possible if I have to do so and an upside is i can do some anti corrosion on the subframe.  Anyway, this is a backburner job.  I am rust proofing the underside currently.

On a side/crazy note.  Will a 1.9L Diesel engine fit in a 2.0 Diesel Engine bay?

Signing off for today and drinking more beer.  Tomorrow is general cleaning of the inside, which is mucky.

#284 Re: General Discussion » My favourite four letter word... » 2021-07-23 20:44:54

Why do the give advisories for grease on brake pipes.  On metal pipes you get corrosion, so grease is a buffer to stop that happening.

#285 Re: Camper Conversions » New Expert Build » 2021-07-23 20:42:40

Day 1:  Removal of Bulkhead, removal of window cleaning kit installed in the back, have also discovered the spare wheel and found a bunch of rust that needs dealing with.

Discovered the flashing Stop light doesnt mean the van is currently not moving.:P  I think its flashing because the intercooler pipe has a hole somewhere judging by the oil leaking from it.  Easy to fix.  The whirring noise on the steering is at a guess the power steering pump, or maybe its low on fluid, either way that something else to check in the next coupe of days.  Its currently on my ramps and will remain there until I have completely rust proofed the underside (bits I can get to).  There is a bunch of car parts that are also rusting, so will also give those a lick of hammerite and probably kurust.  God the wheels are in a bit of a state.  Totally rust everywhere.  Will be going wire brush and sandpaper on them in the next 5 days and then they will get a lick of black hammerite.  All in all there are a few things to do.  Oh and the airbag light came on, no idea why.  My basic OBD scanner will get plugged in, in the next couple of days and the error codes written down so I can find out what broken.  Then in the next couple of weeks I will try and get the DiagBox/Lexia software and kit as I think it might be a worthwhile investment. smile

#286 Re: Camper Conversions » New Expert Build » 2021-07-22 14:54:54

Well I picked it up yesterday and drove it back home.  It took a few hours, mainly due to rush hour in Southern Essex, but I got home at 10ish.

So  things I know need sorting:

1.  Turbo / Boost pipe is probably split.  Whenever the turbo kicks in while accelerating, smoke pours out of the exhaust.  When the turbo is not running, no smoke is produced, ie, when I keep the RPMs low.  Had a problem like this on a mondeo a couple of months back and discovered a large split on the boost pipe.  it might be the same on this van.
2.  Bonnet catch is non-existant.
3.  Some rust needs dealing with.
4. Steering has a noise when turning the steering.  i think maybe the strut mount bearings or possibly the lower ball joints or track rod ends.
5.  Timing belt needs a change.
6.  Need a new aerial for the radio.
7.  Need to do some internal rust painting.
8.  need to remove the bulkhead.
9.  Odometer doesnt function but everything else does (speedo, fuel, temp, warning lights, etc).  i can get this figure from the ECU so its not a big deal per se.
10.  Gearbox is pretty worn and clutch has a really high biting point.
11. Drivers side keyhole spins around endlessly.  Common fault as i remember and needs a new clip to hold the lock in place.

Aside from that the fuel economy is staggeringly good.  I went from Harwich area to Sheffield on just over a quarter of a tank of fuel. Up the M11/A1 to Worksop and cut through on the A57.  All driven at roughly 50-60.

#287 Re: General Discussion » Tools - Halfords Advanced » 2021-07-20 23:31:29

Halfords Advanced (which I believe is either made by Snap-On or Sealey) or Clarke/MachineMart stuff is mostly what i use. 

Probably the most useful tool I have is a 240V Impact Wrench and set of Impact Sockets.  Absolutely any bolt or nut you can find on a car or van it will take off with minimum effort.  Absolutely brilliant doing wheel nuts and hub nuts.  I also have decent ratchets and breaker bars.

A good set of metric sockets, a set of hex bits, a set of torx bits, a good ratchet and a set of spanners will allow you to tackle most jobs.  For more advanced stuff (engine related) a decent torque wrench will be useful too.

#288 Re: Maintenance » Driveshaft fun!! » 2021-07-20 20:33:20

A mechanic I use said they bought Lucas and now they make Lucas starter motors, even though Lucas hasnt made starter motors since 2001.  The only thing to use ECP for is filters and lubricants.  Actual car parts, not a chance and especially nothing that is core to the van, like driveshafts, timing belts, etc.

The same mechanic says all the ebay parts are made of chocolate, but i've been fitting them to my cars and bikes for years and not had any issues.  Just do your research thoroughly before getting them.

#289 Re: Camper Conversions » New Expert Build » 2021-07-20 12:31:46

Yeah, I think the wear and tear end of it will just happen.  I had the same on the Transit, mainly with the towbar electrics which in the end I just disconnected since I don't tow things.

What do you guys prefer for interrogating the ECU?  I see the software is different for these vans.  I hoped with the Scudo being similar that multiecuscan would have worked, but their website says no.

#290 Re: Maintenance » How to work out exactly which engine you have? » 2021-07-20 12:26:34

I actually did do the reg into carparts4less (which looks a lot like EuroCarParts under a different name).  It gave me 3 different parts, presumably because that year came in both the 1.9D and 2.0HDi engine variants (and maybe a petrol too).  From the vehicle report i did for it, its the 110BHP model.  But I will wait until I get it home and then start working it out from there.  Then get a decent timing belt kit and find out how much it will cost for a local mechanic to fit it.  But that's my first upgrade.

#291 Re: Camper Conversions » New Expert Build » 2021-07-20 02:35:42

tee_cee wrote:

I was somewhat unlucky with mine, but worth reading https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … php?id=954
The only other thing is that split relay charging wont work because the alternator voltage droos below 12.7v when the ecu thinks the battery does not need to be topped up.

So I guess i need to skip the VSR and go straight for the B2B then.  Another thing to add to the to-do list. hmm

That thread of yours is a bit of an eye opener.  Amongst the first things i intend to do to mine, will be a complete basic service, ie, change the oil and the filters.  Might have to plug the OBD scanner in as well and see if any hidden horrors are lurking in the background. wink

At present the only fault I know mine has is the front brakes are binding slightly.  So new discs, pads and a caliper overhaul, will be on the todo list at some point.

kenbw2 wrote:
Pathfinder100 wrote:

I do want to move up to a LiFePO4 battery or LTO battery somewhere down the line, probably no more than 100ah, but its a massive pain to do that upgrade and you need so much extra stuff (BMS, B2B, BatteryProtect, decent Victron charger), so its not high on the agenda.

I have this 75Ah LiFePO4 battery in mine, it juuuuuust about fits in the engine bay next to the 45Ah vehicle battery. I got a drop in for exactly the same reason, it avoids all the BMS, protections etc. Very pleased with it.

One of my possible routes was to go for a Sterling LiFePO4.  They sell the old stock with new BMS for a fair chunk less than the brand new ones.  I've seen 80ah on eBay for £385, 100ah for £450 with 3 year warranty.  The other possibility is to go all out and order 4x 280ah 3.2v cells and DIY a 4S battery with a 12V 4S 100A Daly BMS for around £700 (cells can be sourced from a couple of people on Will Prowse's site/forum).

Im not decided on Lithium yet.  But if the alternator wont easily charge via the VB i might look into wiring the VSR directly to the alternator and if not, I guess go straight for the 18A Victron Orion Charger B2B for £155 (which futureproofs things).

#292 Maintenance » How to work out exactly which engine you have? » 2021-07-20 00:24:34

Pathfinder100
Replies: 9

Is their an easy way to work out exactly what engine you have, prior to buying a timing belt or similar specific item? 

My van is a 2006 Peugeot Expert 900 2.0 HDi.

#293 Re: Maintenance » Recommended Rust Treatments » 2021-07-20 00:20:15

Dinitrol RC800/900 s what I've used in the past.  800 is straight up rust killer/converter, 900 is rust converter and primer.
POR15 do something similar.
Hammerite Kurust is another.  Technically you can do the same by painting Hammerite paint on the rust.

I tend to hit with Dinitrol or Kurust first.  Then put a layer of Hammerite (or other metal paint) on top of it.  Then underbody seal or waxoyl or rubberised enamel, depending on what i'm doing.  My Expert will be getting the dinitrol/hammerite/underbody seal, treatment.

If you are spraying, use a mask.  Seen far too many numps spraying without one.  Most of these paints are pretty toxic and dont use 1K or 2K unless you have an air fed mask.

#294 Re: Camper Conversions » New Expert Build » 2021-07-19 19:09:43

kenbw2 wrote:

That sounds immensely exciting, that's a lot of solar!

Not really in comparison to the Transit with its 400w primary solar array and 20w secondary (that trickle charged the VB).  As long as I can generate through winter I'll be happy, even if it isn't at the same level.  Its just having enough power to run everything.  On 400w I could run a small computer, fridge, heater, lighting, etc.  I do want to move up to a LiFePO4 battery or LTO battery somewhere down the line, probably no more than 100ah, but its a massive pain to do that upgrade and you need so much extra stuff (BMS, B2B, BatteryProtect, decent Victron charger), so its not high on the agenda.

I will probably be partially living in this van for a couple of nights every week, so it needs to be pretty squared away.

#295 Re: General Discussion » Drive away awning » 2021-07-19 15:23:59

Outdoor Revolution Cayman Classic.  That's the one i'm looking at getting.  Not massively cheap though at £320.  But size wise, if you get the low version it should fit a Dispatch/Expert/Scudo without any issue and gives living space of 2.5mx2.5m, which should suffice for inner tents or a table and 2 chairs.

https://www.outdoor-revolution.com/caym … 2-f-g.html

orda1020_caymanclassic_l6.jpg

#296 Camper Conversions » New Expert Build » 2021-07-19 15:01:18

Pathfinder100
Replies: 50

I have acquired an 06 Peugeot Expert 2.0 for conversion to a micro camper.  I will be picking it up later this week.  I previously had a SWB Transit that i converted, so I am looking forward to a new blank canvas.  Initially its going to be a bed/bench seat and small cupboard unit with cooker/sink in the top.  Toilet somewhere.  200w solar/30A MPPT/130ah AGM.  Sometime in the next couple of months I will add the compressor fridge and diesel heater, and upgrade the solar to a single 295w Perlight panel.

I'm looking forward to picking it up and starting work on it.  I am looking at a 3 week window to convert it.  I already have most of the materials and wood I need, plus all the electrics kit and about 16m of 5mm foam/dual foil insulation.

Are their any quirks with these vans that i should be aware of?

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