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Thanks for all the advice,
Forgotten to post back the jobbie that was done by a monkey wrenches local to me.
No joke two of them where hammering with sledge hammers and cold chisels for an hour in turns to get it out and where using special threaded bushing kit with extensions to get a new one in.
In short unless you are well clued up and we'll geared up it absolutely is pig of a job... Hence I didn't even try to do it own self (or that is my excuse) ;P and I wasn't going to start teaching them how to do it easier ways (or to read advice here) as they seem to have been enjoying it.
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1667
Forgotten to post back the jobbie that was done by a monkey wrenches local to me.
No joke two of them where hammering with sledge hammers and cold chisels for an hour in turns to get it out and where using special threaded bushing kit with extensions to get a new one in.
In short unless you are well clued up and we'll geared up it absolutely is pig of a job... Hence I didn't even try to do it own self (or that is my excuse) ;P
BTW, I'm certain, you had the engine on, when testing, have you?
I've telecoded the front fogs with diagbox, now I do have both indicators on the dashboard (front and rear fogs).
I measured the voltage on the 3 pins of the connector, here are the results:
pins 1 & 2 : 0v
pin 3; 5v
No matter if I activate the fogs or not I always get these values. So I guess I won't be able to use this connector to plug the front fogs.
Last solution is to pull cables from the BSM brown plug (pins 12 & 24 power up the front fogs) I have to add the wires inside the plug.Do I have to put fuses on each cable, and a relay? or are they already included in the BSM ?
You are on your own now, I think... surpassed my knowledge to the moon and back 
Loom will be 100% different
Lights... 99% the same
90% sure you have wiring for them already, just not seeing (finding) it.
Even I'd be able to, get a tester, flick the switch on/off to see if that wiring/connector working, then ordering the lights and fitting them in
the heater is on full all the ime
It's a direct wire feed connection
All whatever the issue is ignored just wired up...
Made me check what's what and findings are:
there's some wiring from the main headlight loom lose near the headlight
actual fog-light, looks identical to my C3 2009 reg
I remember when having had to replace one of those it Was LHS and RHS difference- confirm, they are on our vans too and fitting most likely identical
Shame, I got not fog-light switch inside the cabin- would make too big on an deal to mess with for me
IF I'm not wrong about them being identical and you HAVE BOTH switch inside and wiring by (from) main wiring loom, it might be just a "LEGO" type of fitting ???
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134142754765
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165780510002
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353162321493
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234778734945
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353111139790
I'm 90% sure them fog-lights are identical across Peugeot Fiat Citroen range for the years ~2000- 2010, but I'm saying so, after having had "Odisy" with near identical looking interior Blower fans, that didn't actually fit
BTW fog lights will be on the same as high beam relay, but might have separate fork and fuse for
Hi just purchased a 06 expert the heater is on full all the time .the slider works well moves any ideas please
Cheers Chris
Wiring is burned somewhere, some monkey wrench just connected it straight, bypassing resistor and everything else.
Hard, but possible to get CORRECT fan from evilBay with CORRECT resistor, replacing it will solve (maybe not) the problem and it can be "un'bodged."
Whilst in my case it was a lesson to not to hate stealers so much, as it ended up way North of £300 and 4+ days of mine wasted, you might find simple replacement of resistor and plugging in correct wiring back being way cheaper solution.
I'm a numty as it comes electricals and mechanicals tbqfah , however, on Escort's (x2 off) I had almost identical issue with internally operated cab lights. It has taken mechanic an hour of internet browsing to get to the bottom of it and half an hour to bring new feed from existing fuse box, that was found which one was it, by locating relay feed and plugging those back on (solid "Bulk-Head") installation I did.
In a search button punch in "wiring diagram" there are also few good Fiat and Peugeot part online sites linked to by the members and few of them might check the forum to give you better guidance.
As long as you have a stalk with wires back to the resistor- fuse box, I've no doubt it's doable.
My old escort van had excessive knocking, lasted for about a month, before had to scrap it, as timing chain stretched and that was jamming output valve ('s) repair wasn't worth it.
ANW, hope it's not the case and it is just an electrical repairable as per your good research so far. More knowledgeable people should clarify bit better, I hope
Stu-D wrote:Norway man wrote:I'm reading this thread with great interest, as I have a blower issue as well. Will the fan be totally dead if the resistor fails? On many cars the blower will still run on full speed when the resistor fails, but not on the lower settings.
I forgot all about this post, sorry mate, getting old! lol - It turned out the alternator had blown, while it had not killed any fuses/relays it possibly caused a surge on the heating circuit, after changing alternator for a 2.0 higher ampage one I still had no fans, I ended up stripping the slider/heat etc selector down and cleaning all the contacts, put back together and still no fan, started poking about in the fuse box with the relays on passenger side, found many of the contacts on the relays had corrosion, cleaned all those, fuses all OK.. put ignition on and fan has worked since lol! bloody thing.
-Stu
Whoo-ho!
Another thing to look at thenwas having a nightmare, due to ownself having hands, but both are left, so kept going to all sorts of mechanics changing things with no joy.. (just back off of a phone to another one, who doesn't want to deal with it TBH), that's after a visit to a ST'ealer, who mentioned most likely some sort of relays to be to blame
![]()
So that's now what I'll be looking at next.. or I'll be saying to old'er mechanic to look at
Recalling what was said by the decent stealer, that he needs to have it booked to investigate, as it could've been anything including RELAYS.. he wasn't wrong, my thinking of support for local trade and fear of stealers wasn't the best call.
Copy/pasta from the other thread
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … 168#p12168
AlvyLad wrote:
(part n.: 655533 ),
IF that'll be it or whatever else. I'll keep you posted!
Relay replaced, but it wasn't it
Actual Fan with RESISTOR replaced (x3'rd one that actually fitted)
Dash lift up, investigations x4 off (some wires stripped etc- unsightly down there)
Relay replaced-
NOPE!
Turns out, once resistor goes "funny" it does burn connectors and wiring, what was said by the good mechanic (although operates well far away from me these days) ~ 3 years ago
The other two instances of investigation/repair was a bit of time waste
the FIX (to my van) was wires melted behind fuse box (re'isolated). Indeed, some might end having some contacts or wiring burning, once resistor goes KAPUT in variety of places.
Not going to list out who did what (right or wrong), just going to say, that including the last striping down and isolating melted wiring was £90 and in total all the messing about ("work") + parts costed me well over £300, that even for these parts of the country is rather steep
ANW, onwards and upwards 
(part n.: 655533 ),
IF that'll be it or whatever else. I'll keep you posted!
Relay replaced, but it wasn't it
Actual Fan with RESISTOR replaced (x3'rd one that actually fitted)
Dash lift up, investigations x4 off (some wires stripped etc- unsightly down there)
Relay replaced-
NOPE!
Turns out, once resistor goes "funny" it does burn connectors and wiring, what was said by the good mechanic (although operates well far away from me these days) ~ 3 years ago
The other two instances of investigation/repair was a bit of time waste
the FIX (to my van) was wires melted behind fuse box (re'isolated). Indeed, some might end having some contacts or wiring burning, once resistor goes KAPUT in variety of places.
Not going to list out who did what (right or wrong), just going to say, that including the last striping down and isolating melted wiring was £90 and in total all the messing about ("work") + parts costed me well over £300, that even for these parts of the country is rather steep
ANW, onwards and upwards 
You'll be best off, to find which brake caliper it actually is then
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333980552362
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333980548549
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231675165220
BUT!!!!! don't know how to be sure which will actually fit your van, as in my case 2/3'rds of parts, that were meant to fit my van in accordance to evilBay- did not...
Apologies @peterlatham to have completely hi-jacked your thread
Van is going to a different mechanic (than this Fri bushings replacing) one forthcoming Tue, Fan worked twice in a couple of weeks, despite having had resistor and motor replaced, still unsure what the outcome will be once he'll have the relay (part n.: 655533 ), IF that'll be it or whatever else. I'll keep you posted!
Unfortunately @NastyBaz was right about the serial missing, as code turns out to be 2524 regardless how I'd try to reverse engineer numbers (serials) on it- none a matching existing "row" of digits to start with
ANW thanks to all interested and helped, hope it might end up of some use to somebody in the future
Good job ended up visiting a dealer, turns out for my particular model there were 2 types of bushings (bushes) (part n.: 515261 )and the type that "fitted" in accordance of ebay- was wrong. ANW stealer was going to order it and get it for me in few days for a "measly" £42.00 each.... went to EuroCP- £22 for the pair! BUT neither had bolt (+nut) for it.
Had to get over to nearest FIAT (Vauhxal) dealer with a hope to have it in stock- nope! so ordered x2 sets at £19.
Hopefully I'll have x2 sets of bushings and bolts (+nuts) on hand to take it to mechanic on Friday, let him decide if to do both or just one.
(Wish I wouldn't be such wolly, could do it own self) 
0.4 l come out
Do let us know if it is "healed" now?
When the diesel bikes were getting discussed on The Rev Counter Forum (Now Gone) some 5-6 years back that triumph was some Dutch company where you could take your Tiger and get it converted. Dont think they lasted long. probably the Greens killed the idea off
Ditto! :clink:
https://web.archive.org/web/20200919221 … mit.co.uk/ but only goes so far...
Old, half hearted attempt this one
I remember, just can't find a very long and good discussion on one of the motorcyclist adventurer forums/boards with every single aspect and model discussed to absolute minutest detail and the actual attempt of some to fit engine in one of the adventurer type bikes
I always think they should do diesel motorbikes. Imagine the efficiency, I bet you'd see over 100MPG
Has been done, never worked well out due to "power range" Vs unit weight + gearbox issue, bit of shame, as there has been whole load of decent-promising prototypes
ANW here's some publication on a subject
https://manofmany.com/rides/motorcycles … otorcycles
Only an article https://www.advrider.com/a-fuel-and-his-money/ but I think it was AdvRider forum topic "my" scepticism stems from 
Them diesel bikes never were going to end well
