The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

My 2015 does, but the easiest way to check is to use a plug in cigarette lighter voltmeter. Typically volage will be 12.7 and will increase up to 14.7 when you lift off the accellerator. This of couse means that most of the time the voltage sensing split charge relay does not kick in.

Rather than buy a battery to battery charger I used a relay connected to the ignition via a timer - set to about 20 seconds. This gives enough time to start the engine before joining the batteries together. I came to the conclusion that the slightly higher charge volages would be ok with a std lead acid battery.

Yes air filter was replaced.
When the dpf was broken soot was gathering in the exhaust and being blown out at higher revs - difficult to tell what was going on. Even more so now that the dpf is collecting it all.
Two different garages mentioned how powerful the engine was - hence the ecu  upgrade to eliminate the possibility of a remap.

Sometimes I think that testing parts will always result in a fault of some sort being detected. Problem with the newer engines is that access it so restricted - I got quoted £360 just to get the injectors out and tested. Nobody seems interested in looking at data logs which show that the time each injector opens is closely balanced across each cylinder.

Seen your post in the other thread and was a puzzled as to why your egr gasket would cause black smoke. Figured out eventually that when accelerating, the egr valve would shut, and the boost would travel from the inlet manifold to the egr, and out.
So it begs the question, did you ever have a smoke test done before this?

With the map sensor, again the ecu knows what to expect. So you would get an error - so possibly the P0299 is low boost pressure measured by the MAP.
Blocking the EGR is worth doing - just been reading elsewhere about a fault where high exhaust pressure was pushing the EGR valve slightly open under aceleration, when it should be closed. In this case you would expect the ecu to work out something is wrong , but it didn't. You would see this in the data logs, assuming the EGR has position sensor.

Looks like this clipped to the additive tank

Regarding the P0299 code, I had this when I first seen the smoke, and thought it was related. However when I later looked at the logs I could see that it was triggered when the measured boost was HIGHER than the requested boost.This would not cause the smoking but indicated that the turbo was sticking - probably due to prolonged high soot levels. I also had the inlet manifold replaced with a unit with the same (50k) miles on it, and I could see that there was much more carbon deposits on the old one. It looked more like the 120k ones that I could see on ebay.
I my case the dpf was doing a fantastic job of hiding this from me - until it broke.
Runs great though and no fault codes.

If we leave without a deal, you will need a international driving permit - 1968 for France and 1949 for Spain.
Notes for the drive south

Take A16/E402 south towards Boulogne to Abbeville - toll. Then Join A28 to Rouen - free. Then pick up N154 to Chartres and on to Orleans. Pick up N20 to Vierzon, then N76 to Bourges and Moulins, then N9 to Clermont Ferrand. Pick up free A75 to J63 Beziers - you need to pay for the Millau viaduct which is  worth it. Follow green signs for Narbonne then Perpignan. You can then pick up A9/E15 toll to Spain and come off at the N2 junction

Rouen is a pain to get round - just follow the signs for A13 Paris.

Since you have already ruled out the sensor, it can only be a wiring problem to the ECU.
Someone has posted a sensor wiring fault on a 2006 2.0HDI here which identifies the 2 wires to check

If you still wanted to replace it there are a few cross references for DW8 / WJZ  engines, that I found on the net eBay search

Can't help feeling that it's a deliberate policy, simply to reduce workload.
On the other other hand maybe they are looking at more regulation eg  New Zealand self containment certification

Sold my 2002 but here's the instruction I wrote for myself

To remove instrument panel

1) Remove 2 steering column torx screws (same head as the other screws)
2) Remove top cowl only (may not be neccessary) Bottom cowl is clipped at the bottom.
3) Remove right vent
4) Reach through right vent to unscrew plastic trumpet that holds the bottom of instrument panel cowl
5) Remove 3 screws holding in central vents - remove vent
6) Remove 2 screws holding top of panel surround and remove surround.
7) Remove 2 bottom and one top screw of instrument cluster.

286 CAPLESS DASH CAR AUTO BULBS 12V 1.2W