The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

Luv ya!

BTW, EuroCarParts, GSF have got some sort of direct access to detailed Citroen parts and maintenance records site, just by using Reg.... why it isn't available to public?    

@GRIFFIN yes mate, 100% correct as it comes to ERG and consequent issues with vacuum leaks etc and in general it being stupid "innovation" it's useless engineering, design and manufacture. Indeed, isolating EGR is the best thing for several/most models of these vans since sliced bread.

How to isolate?- several ways work, but both EGR connectors need be disconnected (pipping plugged back on or not.... doesn't make any difference) HOWEVER once van has run for a while with vacuum leaks and/or ERG membranes faulty(ruptured) it seems to make one or the other valve to NOT to open fully due to sutt build up. I'm certain it's weak vacuum that caused those issues in my case and fairly certain , that actual EGR valve now fully open and would function perfectly if it would've had appropriate suction to it.

I aught to apologise for a sort off hijacking the thread with my personal issue of "spongy/weak breaks", but indeed it has been issue of weak vacuum : sucker pump/piping/servo/EGR/(computer operated) solenoid chain-circuit of devices that only need one critical function- to power up brake servo, the whole circuit for EGR is utter nonsense.
Once again here (in this thread) I aught to explain, that once I isolated all but the pipe to Servo and having run engine warm-cold few times, the ERG valve opened up- engine runs fine and brakes are good.
Once again, my issue most likely was caused by two (both) sucker pumps being identically "inefficient".

Once again, thanks for all the help gents!

Thanks for that!
bit iffy, not having identification by Reg, but clicking about got me some answers... not clear still unfortunately

(everything is in filters)
all of the particle ones... they are only good for particle filtration, those that say solvent fumes and particle filtration- hard to breathe through, the only really good ones that are expensive, don't last, with carbon   my $0.02ct on it

once a year, you have to try and see what will work for you

I've had hot starting issue, no crank sensors changed, had to get a starter motor for mechanic to change, but what arrived (S.H.) wouldn't fit, so he took old one apart, cleaned all sorts put it back on, for until, another one arrived (- it improved little bit, but has remained little slow to turn when hot), and the second starter with new battery has been flawless, after changed for couple of years now...
Temperature on a crank sensor might play part, but doesn't make sense... But I'm not a mechanic.

evilBay ...

Hello
Ebay itm. N: 132876043265 Reference OE/OEM Number
1705NS, 9456199680

and itm. N: 142258455145 Reference OE/OEM Number
9456187880, 1726NC, 1726HS, 1730L7

Am I missing anymore fittings and gaskets?
Will they be 100% "like for like" for a Dispatch 1.9D 2004 DW8 (non turbo), reg: xxxxxcc ?
Thank you

Response

Hi there,

the listing is compatible with your vehicle, thank you and have a great day!
Kind Regards

Nightmare...
What's "funny"  they have an access to the proper Citroen site, that works just as it should with all the parts, diagrams, just by registration

Thanks @Pathfinder100
Really not a fan of evilBay....

In current standing, there are ever so many offerings, but no definitive confirmation on what part is correct for me, TBF, for middle section even more options, than in eurocarparts.... That might fit, might not, but then all the fixings, gaskets... And all returns is absolute pain.

Auto factors (ex Andrew Page?), nothing there for Dispatch at all.

One of those partfinder sites listed the parts numbers for Dispatch (with registration), couldn't find nothing nowhere else, under those reference numbers, it's their "proprietary" interpretation?

I mean, surely there's some Citroen site, to get geniune part numbers, like parts fiche?

@mrtwisty
got mine "fixed"
Replaced vacuum pump unnecessarily, got 2 spare EGR's
Blocked some of the pipes (eliminating EGR) brakes worked, later didn't, ended blocking all pipes with ball bearings, but the one that goes to servo... didn't work.... next day- brakes are fine, no warning lights etc.

Went back to mechanic for a chat now, he goes: "your pump (both) or either should've had some sort of valve bearing, that gets stuck or you had a vacuum leak somewhere, that's intermittent. All works now, shall not bother doing anything else"

find a ball bearing (6mm) stick it inside the pipe (2)...

should solve all or many issues, solved my brake inefficiency question

Tempted!
i've heard, with good tyre tuning, I could gain extra 5HP from alloys alone  
on a serious note- you are way too far for me to get to yours (from Guildford), but one day might change my mind and make the drive 

Me thinks- I'll block everything properly....

From the sucker (pump), now it's only split in to "1"- directly to servo as grey tape is acting as additional squeeze to smashed 6mm bearing ball blocking "2"

The bottom connector on EGR is isolated once again ("4") with bearing ball and taped up

so the pipe that goes to (from) "solenoid" (???) is blocked both ends (it was named "3")

Results?:

Engine runs so so, still uneven, rough sounding a bit, but better, than it was before, however not as good, as it has been before it was messed with pump and things...

Brakes... really good first pump braking, not great second time round (fast push) at all. Could it have been, what mechanic "1" overruled me on "having aged/bad fluid need replacing/ pumping through?" only, that was is wrong, need be done?

(Still have old pump (that wasn't needed to be replaced, but whatever)
Have both spare EGR's, one clearly has been busted, other clearly broken nipple)

any more suggestions gents?

Leaks, should've been eliminated, by now, having had very extensive testing many times over by 2 mechanics and myself, one of them  did what your vid shows and was adamant it was leak, hence I was driving up and down hill 10 times, isolating one pipe after the other, until my braking on second pump become as effective as first, by blocking "4." , (that connects to the EGR), that brought suggestion of it being faulty, that after leaving him (mechanic), immediately got the engine to splutter whilst gaining revs... Which kinda means, it was funcioning better connected, than not, but was perhaps wrong amount of vacuum consuming by design?... (Could it have been messed up previously by connecting incorrectly or the unit should've been different cap- consuming less of the suction?)

BTW ordered one (SH EGR) last night from Germany, will be here whenever, most likely will not make any difference, replacing it.
Q- them clips- what's the proper procedure removing them, if no correct tools are about?
Cheers