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That axle won't fit yours mate.
Not crumbly enough!
When No longer Craftsmanship and quality materials equals a quality vehicle but how many toys and Play Stations its got ....Does matter ........
And next week none of the toys work then what .............
I am still shaking my head over an add for one of the big 4wd off road pickups. Don't remember which make but what struck me was that the stand out, must have item. the "specification" most pushed in the add, was... limited edition decals!
I don't know how much they are, must be 30 - £40,000 and more, and their USP is... stickers.
Cheap and cheerful for me too.
If I were to experience repeated loss of grip and slides, I think I would adjust my driving style before spending £500 on tyres.
Mine is like a builders van too. But I can still live in it as comfortably as I have ever lived anywhere. Even in winter.
Currently -3 and snow outside, 21 and cosy in here.
Are you sure it's charging properly? And if it is, is it holding charge?
If you have a multi meter, check volts at the battery with the engine running. If it is charging properly, check if it's it's loosing power overnight. Even a new battery can fail.
If there is a fault, a bigger battery might give you a few more starts but wouldn't resolve it.
When you say the windscreen channel is clear, have you also checked the rubber drain pipes at each end of the channel?
Unless there is any structural problem like leaking windscreen or holes in the floor of firewall, I can't think of anywhere else for it to get in. We struggle to get even a single cable out into the engine bay.
I have heard that there is no difference between the 2kw and 5kw ones. Sometimes from people who have stripped both types down.
Anyone know if this is just rogue suppliers, or has anyone found any specific differences?
I am wondering if it's a case of being cheaper to just make one model and detune some via the electronics or fuel feed.
It is a pity that the glow plug isn't a bit smarter. In a small van the starting cycle is likely to be constantly triggered by the thermostat trying to maintain a steady temperature.
You will never stop it all but ventilation is the the best defence.
Not nice letting warmth out when you are sat in on a night but anytime during the day, vent as much as possible. If you are driving, have the heater and blower on full and open a couple of windows an inch or so. A good idea to open cupboards too to let them air out.
As Casper says, breathing and burning gas causes a lot and we also bring a lot of moisture in via wet clothes, boots, dogs, etc. With little or no ventilation this just builds up. I get a lot less condensation nowadays that I am less active and am not out getting soaked all day.
Covering cold metal surfaces hides obvious signs of it to a great extent, but the moisture is still there and will make fabrics damp and musty.
Condensation has been no problem at all for me this year as I have been glamping on hookup all winter and can ventilate as much as needed and still keep warm.
Look on the bright side.
It's set back capitalism's plan to destroy the environment by at least ten years!
Yes, handy little things and so cheap.
Just ordered 5 from china.
Like tee_cee's (Top Cat?
) switched meters too. For one thing I don't like anything using power in standby. But I also find meters giving constant readings very distracting as they are irresistible to watch. Then there is the inevitable LED indicators. A few years back when I worked in IT, I ended up with dozens of different colour LED's all over my bedroom on servers, routers, modems, etc. Was like Blackpool illuminations. Then they started to creep into the van.
Thats another good thing about these piggyback fuse things. You can pull the secondary fuse to switch off the extended circuit.
This won't give specifics for your van but gives a good overall description of the job without assuming previous knowledge of electrics.
I remember when I was looking for a new resistor for mine, the Polish seller made a point of reminding purchasers to check the part numbers. Apparently there are two different but identical looking ones used.
I ended up getting a new full blower unit for only a £10 more than the resistor would have been.
Like ken said, I would see if it is capable of running direct before doing any more dash dismantling. I think many of us have been there.
The unit looks to have had water through it at some point. This happens when the scuttles are blocked and could be the origin of the problem.
For an "Oldboy" Mick you are doing a good job of keeping up.
i am so out of touch myself. There was I thinking "just disconnect and whip it out" totally unaware of the potential electronic mayhem that might result.
"O brave new world…”
Hello and welcome snapuswip3
Cosy.
Looks like my bedsit back in the 70's

It's could be the trunking to the vents have dropped off.
Or the flaps that redirect the air are not opening. Can you feel resistance at the control when you move the slider? If not, the cable might have disconnected from the back of the lever.
Mine intermittently jams too. I hardly use it but suspect as dRoyd says that it might be when one of the latches doesn't catch properly. It might free if you can push the open one fully closed. Or it could be that one of the pull rods has detatched.
As it has always surrendered with a bit of swearing and beating I haven't bothered investigating further. It's a system of pull rods inside that when stressed or distorted by one latch open when the other is latched, it can't pull properly on the latched one.
When I replaced my sliding door I refitted the lock from my old door. The pull rods attach to the back of the handle/lock assembly and it was a right pain attaching them. There is no slack on the rods to withdraw them enough to hook them on. I think I might have bent one of the rods in the struggle and it too now sticks if I don't ensure the rear latch catches.
I would take a picture if I was you. It won't last unfortunately. I tried allsorts with my little Yamaha scooter which had lots of black plastic. Even expensive car valeting stuff fades in a matter of weeks.
Best success I had was rubbing in boot polish and building up a coat. It lasted a bit longer if unbuffed and left mat but still faded in weeks. It also came off on cloths if you brushed against it.
I think we just have to come to terms with going gray with age. 
Where about is the connector located?
if it's reasonable to get at, I have access to a scrap van I could check out.
No abs on mine.
WTF!?!
That pic was just last week. 
Not so good today though.
Relay on my earlier model is under bonet over off side wing.
Aimed at earlier engines but may be some help with diagnostics here :-
My own welding experience was with oil cooled stick welders in the shipyard. Like oversized dustbins that needed a crane to move them.
Don't remember what power they were but they could use rods over 1/2". By striking and sticking a thick rod to a bulkhead, you could get the rod glowing red and make a very good electric heater. Another trick was to coil the long thick cables up and levitate bits of bar in the magnetic field in the middle of the coil.
The most amusing trick was to sneak up behind another welder and weld his boot heels to the deck.
This was all before the invention of health and safety of course.
Can't help re the parts but if you can identify the relevant wires it would be simple enough to bypass the box with new wire from switch to pump and use an inline fuse. I suspect identifying the wires might be the problem?
If all else fails, an old fashioned manualy pumped one would get you through the mot. They used to be common when new tech like window washers were rare.
Pretty sure someone had similar recently.
Can't remember where though. You might find it if you browse recent posts I think it was in the past month or so.
As you said, sounds like a good check of the fuse box. The buzzing sounds like a dodgy relay.