The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

The pressure in a hydraulic system should be the same everywhere ( like current in  a circuit) so either one of the little valves in the load valve was stuck down ( not very common) ... or some fluid was leaking out of the wheel cylinder on one side wetting the shoe and reducing efficiency  or  wheel cylinder siezed. Both last two common problems  with rear drum brakes.

The DVLA have got them selves into a bind here. It states:
In order for a converted vehicle to qualify as a motor caravan it must have certain minimum features, as follows: A door, A bed, A water storage tank, A seating  arrangement, and  table, A permanently fixed means of storage, A permanently fixed cooking facility, At least one window, present, permanently fixed and installed properly.

If the vehicle has all of these features present, permanently fixed and installed properly, then it is a legal requirement to have it reclassified as a motor caravan  Yet when you apply , the application is turned down on the appearance qualification mentioned in paragraph one. So it's a legal obligation, and yet when you apply it is declined. Sounds like a catch 22 situation to me guys.

Do or don't you are in the wrong. Pressure needs to be put on the DVLA to decide which case they want, the law needs to be tested. 

Somehow.

Hi there , finally dug one out , sadly it won't go through the post offices letterbox, so postage will be £2.84 ( I think , will check) If you want to call it a fiver, in total.
3 connections , ign on , lights on and a connection to earth , via the door switch for the interior lights . When  ign off and lights on and earth connection ( door open) made buzzer sounds. All other cases silent.  From memory the relay plugs in somewhere beneath the dash column area .  Could be wired up relativelty easily  from scratch .

If you want a lights on buzzer relay , I have several , I could do one for the post plus a couple of quid.

A very powerful diagnostic tool is the question > " What happened last?"  In your case as the answer is  'I had a new clutch fitted ' There is a 90% chance that somehow the cable that does the forwards and backwards  (1-2 3-4 etc) hasn't gone back on quite right for some reason.

It's always good to know the outcome.  Glad it's sorted.

Unlike Citroen Hydraulics, I can't say I'm very familiar with air suspension, but certainly on Discoverys the first sign of a problem was that the bags used to leak so the pump ran all the time, the way to check this was to spray the bag with WD40, if there were loads of bubbles then it was time to renew the bag *** before it ruptured***.  It sounds like one of your bags has gone beyond this stage and actually ruptured.

The ebay advert says the bags  fit various versions of the Jumpy and I suspect that the item would fit yours too. Why not contact the seller and check if you are not confident. Most car parts are made by third party suppliers, not the manufacturer themselves , like Valeo alternators and Bosch brakes, these air bags will be bought in by Citroen.

On Discos the pressure pipes were a simple push fit system with 3.5mm pipes and a ring that was retracted to release the pipe ( when pressured down obviously). The disco units were held in place with a couple of bolts in an end plate and a cup the other end fitted into.  These ones look like they just fit into cups , but until you examine them it's hard to tell exactly.  You can't drive your vehicle with it down on the ground , so you need either a mobile mechanic, or a mate or it's a  do it yourself job. Always put the vehicle up on stands, don't go under it just on a jack. Crack the wheel nuts loose before jacking up.  I know it's not the same but changing the springs is a quick job.  Release the shock  so the axle can drop  and the springs literally drop out, hopefully the gas bags  will be just as easy to do.

I would suggest  some large slightly off white panels with stylised text similar to Dromabile Riviera Luxe or something, along with curved flourishes, something like this then ...... A van with windows?
https://www.knaus.com/en-uk/camper-vans-cuv/

That picture does make it clear.  When the rack was assembled on a bench it would be quite easy to peen it with a hammer and punch, on the vehicle it will be a different proposition.  You could fit a star washer which is a lock washer with lots of small serrations , or just loctite it together with , just 'nut lock' usually red  loctite, you really don't need 'bearing fit' or 'stud lock'. As long as its torqued up reasonably tight it should be fine, all the force is axial , there is no twisting ( undoing) torque.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INTERNAL-SHA … dd10194b26

You could use both!

If the lock washer is trashed upon removal of the track rods, you can be sure it will be available from the main dealer as a spare part.  You could just loctite them, but not recommended, the original lock washer is the way to go really.

For the notchy steering try lubing the UJ in the steering column just above the rack......

I think the bottom ball joint/ lower arm join  is an example of very poor design. My Xantia ( and 405 the same) uses a taper and a nut. The nut of course  pulls the taper into its socket and its all tight.  Many PSA designs ( Berlingo, etc, etc )use a parralel pin and a pinch bolt, simple and no taper to break , so they can be easier to undo.   The dispatch/ Expert/ Scudo  uses a tapered pin in  split tapered hole , with a pinch bolt.  Unless the taper is pushed up into it's  socket when the pinch bolt is tightened, whats to say it is actually tight in there ( rather than the bolt being tight.) These are well known for rattling loose , some people have to replace the hub carrier as the hole is so worn the pin won't engage. The  taper pin has a waist for the pinch bolt , so it can't actally fall out , just rattle about .  I think it's a poor design.