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Ah the old fallacy of "I'm npt spending £1000 on this old thing, I'm gonna spend £5000 on a replacement instead"
dang rust kills them regardless of TLC we give them
Or in my case an endless money pit keeping it alive haha
Discovered it's got some new features like an adjustable steering wheel
Fancy
a fuel gauge that actually works, and the engine doesn't sound like a bag of spanners
Alright showoff
When I moved from my Synergie to the Dispatch I thought about this, and took the electronic motor from the Synergie door. Looked pretty straightforward and if I remember rightly the trigger actually came from the door mechanism itself rather than a central computer or whatever
Wiring like you ay, I've never seen any sign of it in mine. And you'd need to swap the contacts on the sliding door that make contact when you close it
I'll be interested to see how you get on with this
Oh nice, I'll remember that if and when mine ever goes. The LCD is about the only thing on my dashboard that still works haha
Yea I've had those return pipes perish on various of my vehicles over the years so it's not a bad idea to replace them
I don't have any experience either way, but surely if you're taking them out you might as well replace both? Looks like from the diagram both seals come with the injector
I guess it depends what you define a Mk to mean. I believe the convention is that the 2004 change is a face lift, and I'd agree with that
Post-2007 it's a whole new body
Interesting that you can buy a sill on ebay - mine have all been fabricated from sheet metal
Was it this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226932384538
Agreed it could be the fuses, but you could confirm it by checking the voltage at the starter motor when you're turning the key?
I did those brake shoes and cylinders once in a car park on a cold wet January evening. I swore to myself I'd never do them myself again
I don't thin that's an adjuster, it just clamps the three cables together
The rubber strap just suspends it from the body. You're lucky yours is still attached, mine has decided it likes being separate 
That was exactly my story with my Peugeot 806 (the car version of our vans). Bought as a spare parts car for £89 (including alloys!). Screw it throw in for MoT. Passed! Well, looks like you're a runner now.
As it happens I've just had exactly this problem myself. https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=2173
The handbrake lever would pull, but not easily. And it wouldn't release. I could push the lever down but I could tell it wasn't disengaging properly
I had exactly the same - previously the drum would spin, but once I pull the lever it would stick and I couldn't rotate the drum by hand
The stopgap solution was to wiggle the handbrake cables - the two long ones behind that metal joining piece you have in your photo. Wiggling those eased the tension enough to loosen the brakes
The proper fix was to replace the front section of cable - it was getting stuck in the sheath that surrounds it
According to Wikipedia (which corroborates that RHY is the 8 valve 89hp engine) the DW10ATED4 is engine code RHW with 108hp
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSA_EW/DW_engine#DW10
When you say according to the VIN, what's that looked up on?
Normally people complain that the car beeps at them too much haha, odd to see the opposite
Firstly, good to see a new Mk1 on the forum. Glad to see it's getting looked after.
I wonder how much the fuel cooler is needed. Maybe it is, my experience is with the 1.9Ds so I've never had one but it might be worth looking into how bad it is to not have one
Isn't it on the return line rather than the feed? I'd have thought that makes things matter less. Like I say though I know nothing
They discuss it here: https://frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/view … hp?t=25939
There's one here on eBay from a C8 which is a very similar vehicle: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267188094799
The part number appears to be
1338 A7
WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR,
M12X150 2 VOIES,
GREEN
I can't see the part number on that page, but the thread size matches
That said, it says max temp 80? Seems low
Maybe check if the plug is the same as the one on your engine

In my former van I had oil bubbling up to my expansion tank and in my case it was the oil cooler. I replaced it and it was fine since. But by god did it clog things up. I flushed out the coolant about 7 times and it still had residue.
My heater matrix never worked well since - only getting warm air if the engine was at decent revs
The only places the coolant gets close to the oil is like you say the oil cooler and the head gasket. Obviously we have to hope it's not the latter but without evidence of an issue with the oil cooler I can't think of another possibility
Are you losing oil over time?
On the 1.9s it's on the thermostat housing, just down from the fuel filter, the green and blue plugs below
As I remember it was one for the dash, and one for the radiator fans

Grabbing the last of summer and having an event in Skipton I took the opportunity to meander my way across the hills in the North
As always it was a mixture of great scenery and hassle but that's what you get with the van life
The biggest one was emerging from the van at midnight to find the air full of smoke! I didn't stick around to see if the fire would catch up with me as I slept




Can attest that welding on the sills isn't a huge deal. A couple hundred maybe
When I originally replaced my power hungry incandescent bulbs for efficient LEDs I also hated the cold light of LEDs
I now use the original light fittings with panels of warm white LEDs which gives me a nice bright interior with a warm (2700K?) ambience

A 60-plate Citroën Dispatch does not have a separate "lift pump" in a submerged tank; instead, it uses a single, in-tank electric fuel pump that is submerged in the fuel
...isn't that what a lift pump is? It even contradicts itself
does not have a separate "lift pump" in a submerged tank; instead, it uses a single, in-tank electric fuel pump that is submerged in the fuel
Great
Long shot, but how about letting a parts dealer or even Citroën dealer do your research? Try and buy a lift pump for that chassis number. They should have access to manufacturer's parts lists.
I've had luck with this, they even gave me the part number
My assumption would be the dial has stopped working. Not unprecendented - I've had the speedo needle not work but the miles keep ticking up
I'm already eyeing up a T5 with no MOT going "cheap" so I'm sure my woes are only over briefly.
What's the definition of insanity again? Good luck, hope you have as much fun with the T5 