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#526 Re: Maintenance » Front Brake hoses » 2017-11-13 18:50:13

Thanks - I'd heard about the seals before. I don't think I have ABS as the servicebox report for my VIN states
"W/O ABS BRAKES". The local garage suggested that hoses would be £30 each, and a couple of hours labour ~ £180 + vat.

#527 Maintenance » Front Brake hoses » 2017-11-13 17:12:09

tee_cee
Replies: 6

Just passed the MOT for the 5th time in a row, however there is an advisory regarding perished front brake hoses.
I was had intended to get them replaced anyway, since I know that I have been losing some fluid.
Looks a fairly straight forward job, but just wondered if there are any gotchas that people are aware of?

#528 Re: Camper Conversions » Lego Layout » 2017-09-22 16:47:28

In my opinion this is most difficult part of the whole process. I spent more time at this stage than doing the actual work.
Would agree with OAT that setting up and breaking down quickly becomes a chore, and even 5 mins extra becomes a pain. We don't even turn the seats if we don't think we need to.
The lego idea is great, easy to visualise and discuss. I found that cardboard boxes bound with packing tape gives a good idea of scale, which is very difficult to envisage otherwise. Sketchup is great tool once the concept has been decided upon.
I would mention that the main fixed unit is better behind the passenger seat, since the steering wheel limits how far the drivers seat can be pushed back.
Good luck.

#532 Re: Camper Conversions » Trip » 2017-09-08 14:35:49

luthier wrote:

Stunning pic big_smile and the location no too shabby either lol,  Getting the Alfa alloys myself shortly smile . Post a pic when you get them on your van...

Thanks. It's really the tyres that I want. I've been using Vredstein Quatrac 3's but they don't sell them any more, and the Michelins don't come in 14in, so replacing with 15in seems the only option -  unless I just go for std tyres.
Anyway Casper, this trip is purely focused on hiking in the French alps, starting at Albertville & working south around Vanoise & Ecrins. The weather can be fickle, espcially at altitude, but the bonus is that the campsites are empty. When it gets too cold we will head south & over to Cherboug for the (first overnight) ferry to Ireland - which should be interesting.
We have hit a bit of milestone now, after 3 and a half years since the camper was built, and 7 trips, we have been to every country in the EU, spending 470 odd nights in the van and driving about 50k miles. It almost feels like we should do something different, but for us everything works perfectly now it seems a shame to change.
Enjoy your trip, and if you find Como a bit commercialised, head over to Lake Oseo which is much quieter.

#533 Camper Conversions » Trip » 2017-09-03 19:41:26

tee_cee
Replies: 7

Nothing more than a pic of the van at Mont Cenis in France. Two weeks into a 6wk trip, only lost a hubcap so far. Don't want to replace since I'll be getting alfa alloys and michelin crossclimates when I get home.20170903_101528.jpg

#534 Re: General Discussion » Rear Ladder and Spare Wheel » 2017-08-18 09:35:21

Another option is to leave a gap in the flooring at the back, like this
P1000192.JPG
The spare can drop into this when we are at home (though I forget to do this most of time)

#535 Re: General Discussion » Rear Ladder and Spare Wheel » 2017-08-17 22:16:19

I fitted a Fiamma 200d bike rack, and hang 2 bikes of the back, which works out at about 28kg + 9kg for the rack. My main worry was stressing the narrow bits around the window, so I filled the inside with expanding foam to stiffen it all up. It's all worked well with no signs of damage after more than 15,000 miles with the bikes.
http://blue-van.blogspot.co.uk/p/bike-r … -aids.html

As for the spare wheel, I thought long and hard about it, and decided that I could do without. My theory was that the typical punctures are repairable with tyreweld or the gooey rubber plugs, coupled with a pump (built into the starter pack). Of course there is no fix for a shredded tyre, but its less likely, and I'll just roll with it - treat it like any other catastrophic failure.

#536 Maintenance » Stop Solenoid » 2017-07-29 10:25:18

tee_cee
Replies: 0

As mentioned in another thread, I had some problems with the stop solenoid on my 2012 1.9D Expert.

Initially the van would not start, with no sign of smoke from the exhaust - and no fault code.
Eventually the van did start, but after it sat for around 15 or 20 minutes, it would not start again. Remembering the thread here I figured that dirt was preventing the the solenoid plunger from withdrawing. The initial strategy was to leave the ignition on, and bang the hell out of armour covering the solenoid with a rubber mallet, and try starting again. Usually I could get it started in 5 minutes. This kept us going but were were 2000 miles from home, and it puts a dampener on the trip, when everytime you park, you wonder if the van will start again. I tried a few garages who weren't keen to do the work, and in most cases didn't understand that the solenoid was part of the immobiliser system. It was looking like this was going to take time & money to fix, and to be honest I don't really want to lose the immobiliser.
So I bought some injector cleaner and ran that through 2 half tanks, with little noticeable effect. Finally I changed the starting technique. Got the missus to turn the ignition, which while the glow plug timer is on, also pulses the stop solenoid (I still don't know if this is normal), during which time I'm banging the fuel pump. Low and behold the engine starts almost first time. After a few days of this, the engine starts without the banging, after a few seconds the vibration is enough to release the solenoid . A week later & the engine it starting first time and has carried on since.

So I'm not sure if the  injector cleaner softened up the debris or not, but things are almost back to normal now. If the engine is started from warm, sometimes I can still hear a slight hesitancy - but I can live with that.

#537 Re: General Discussion » Emergancy Jump Starter Power Packs? » 2017-07-29 09:16:18

I would have no problem buying one of these if I didn't already have a Ring RPP135 battery pack.
Bulky as it is, it has a built in tyre pump and a small inverter.

#538 Re: Camper Conversions » Leisure battery - How small is too small?? » 2017-07-29 08:56:45

If you work backwards a little you can tell what capacity is needed.  The figures are fairly rough, but it should help in making the decision.

Lights - if you use the 12V round aluminum surface mount types found on ebay, these are rated at 2.5 or 3 watts - which at 12V is 200-250mA. If you run 4 of these (probable overkill) then this would be 1A per hour.
For music a USB chargeable bluetooth speaker will consume much less than a car radio - say 500mA at 5V = 2.5 watts , which  at 12V is 200mA per hour.
Likewise charging a mobile will be about 200mA per hour.
So for an evening, say 5 hours - lights would be 5A, music 1A, phone charge 1A max, which totals 7Ah.
Since you really should not run the battery below 50% - that would mean you need 14Ah, however if you assume that you only get 80% of the rated capacity, that would work out at 17.5Ah.
So if you had a 40Ah battery you would get 2 evenings on a single charge.
To be honest the 4 leds is overkill, most of the time I use a small LED spotlight which runs at 200mA.

I stuck my 80Ah battery in the engine bay, pictures are here http://blue-van.blogspot.co.uk/p/fittin … ttery.html

#539 Re: Spare Parts » Expert - rear door latch » 2017-06-26 05:52:37

The name of the part is - rear door striker.
Last time I looked the part for my 2002 1.9d was
916422

#540 Re: General Discussion » Sometimes it will sometimes it wont » 2017-06-25 14:09:51

I think I have a different problem. The van will start ok if it has been stopped for a few minutes. Any more than maybe 30 mins and its a problem, which is getting worse.
Today I had a listen at the fuel pump, and I'm getting a buzzing noise rather than a solid click. The buzzing only lasts while the glow plugs are on.
This noise has always been there and I just assumed that it was to do with the preheat timer.
Has anyone else heard this when starting?

#541 Re: General Discussion » Sometimes it will sometimes it wont » 2017-06-23 11:49:21

From what I understand the solenoid plunger sits in diesel. I'm thinking that dodgy fuel (we are traveling in the Balkans at the moment) may be a factor, though I did change the fuel filter before we left. I wonder if some additive for cleaning injectors might help?

#542 Re: General Discussion » Sometimes it will sometimes it wont » 2017-06-16 11:17:22

After a few taps with a mallet on the solenoid housing and the van starts up.
I wonder if a dousing of wd40 would get anywhere near it?

#543 Re: General Discussion » Sometimes it will sometimes it wont » 2017-06-14 06:10:34

Did you ever get to the bottom of this?
Mine refused to start the other morning - no smoke and not even a kick. I reseated any connectors I could see around the fuel filter area and primed until hard. One last go and it started up.
It may have been coincidence but the evening before I drove through torrential rain with flash flooding. There was water in the engine bay - the felt above the aux belt area was damp.

#544 Re: Camper Conversions » Minor refurbish/renewal » 2017-05-17 19:42:29

Stuck my rail down with Tiger seal and it has been fine. Needed to bend the rail slightly to fit.
I stuck it in the channel where the roof rack holes are. http://blue-van.blogspot.com/2015/02/sun-shade.html?m=1

#545 Re: Camper Conversions » Peugeot Expert 55 Plate - MY VANSION » 2017-05-12 09:00:53

Your 3 way fridge will draw something like 10A@ 12v continously. This would give about 5 hours on a 100Ah battery. Really the 12v input is only to keep an already cold fridge cold, when travelling between sites.
If your split relay does not have 12v aux/fridge out then you would need a seperate 12v 30A relay switched from the van 'engine running' relay which is easy to get from the glovebox fusebox.

#546 Re: Spare Parts » Remote locking Key fob » 2017-05-01 11:42:54

Had a quick look on eBay, and this key/remote blank came up for £20 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232305233810
Would buy it myself, if I didn't have 4 remotes already  smile

#547 Re: Spare Parts » Remote locking Key fob » 2017-04-30 10:55:13

Hi,

I've been meaning to post some info on this, so sorry for the long reply.

I assume that the key looks like this
Key

Probably the easiest/cheapest way for you would be to get a secondhand key from eBay, and call a few Auto locksmiths to see if they can program the remote. Alternatively I've seen some people volunteer to reprogram on the citroen/peugeot forums - but you would need to have the vehicle PIN (see below) to do this.

The circuit boards never come up on eBay, but second hand keys do (Xantia/Xsara seem to be most common)- expect to pay £10-£15.

Unfortunately it's not a simple matter to program these

There are two types of key, the older IR key (I think these have a red LED on the key), and the newer RF key.
The only way to program the RF key is with the Peugeot/Citroen Lexia 3 diag interface - eBay ~£50.
The software that comes with these PP2000 is usually a hacked mashup that takes a lot of faffing about to get working (only runs on XP/ or XP virtual machine)
Once it is installed you will need the van pin code, which would have been on a card with the van docs - something like "JBS2". If you don't have the code there are people that can lookup the code for $25 - search for "citroen pin from vin"
Once all of this is working the scary part is that you have to reprogram all the remotes & transponders at once.
So if it screws up, you can be left with nothing.

Incidentally the transponders are one time programmable, so a when virgin key is programmed the first time, it is paired to the van - after that the transponder will only work with that vehicle. So getting a second hand key, means that you will need a new virgin transponder as well. Unfortunately different transponders seem to be in use. In my case (2002 van) I could read the transponder markings, which were PCF7931AS transponder ID33 however the guy I bought the key blanks from stated "A Philips ID33 (T5) transponder chip was used on the Peugeot Expert from 1997 to 2001. It then changed to a Philips Crypto II (T14)". The remotes are hard coded, and can be reused on different vehicles.

Getting the key cut requires a code eg  5064613, but online key cutters are able to work this out from a good photo. The key blade type is SX9 and the number for the blade (inc. transponder ID33) is 9926FG.

#548 Re: General Discussion » Hello and Water Ingress Problem » 2017-04-07 17:37:22

If anyone is interested Lidl are selling washable rubber backed mats 80×120cm for £10. Been using these for a couple of years and can reccomend
https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offe … cleId=2208

#549 Re: General Discussion » Only 2 Gears » 2017-03-27 19:05:34

On my 2002, the main link popped out half way up a mountain in Spain - no gears at all. The socket on the link was made of plastic, which disintegrated. Even with the plastic bit missing the link could be tied back down with a tie wrap. The main problem was getting to the the link - I'd say it's impossible without getting it up on a ramp.
Incidently the new link design was slightly different, with a metal rather than a plastic socket.

#550 Re: General Discussion » Daylight running lights? » 2017-03-27 16:03:49

Ah yes the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic. Doesn't help much when you are being given an on the spot fine because the local police feel like it. I think I'll give up on the DRLs since there is no way of telling if driving with "dipped headlights" means exactly that, or if DRLs will suffice. It's an odd situation, when the EU couldn't get agreement, so they forced the manufacturers to install them anyway. I'll just use the headlights - but might put a relay in to switch them on automatically.

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