The Dispatch | Expert | Scudo Hub

The consumption figures look about right.
The standard thermoelectric coolboxes take about 4 or 5 amps - continuously, and will cool 15-20C below ambient (which isn't a lot of use when the inside of the van is 35C!) . Since an 85Ah battery only realistically gives you about 50% of the rating, this equates to about 10hours.

Waeco tropicool boxes are a little more sophisticated - cooling by 30C below ambient and using a theromostat to switch on and off, claiming to get down to and equivalent of 2A an hour, which would be 20 hours on the leisure battery

Waeco Coolfreeze compressor boxes will cool down like a regular fridge, consuming abut 3A when running - but the difference is that once its down to temperature, and depending on the ambient temp, it can take very little to run. Usually less than 1A per hour - which would give 40 hours on the leisure battery.

Of course the Waeco boxes cost a small fortune, so it depends on how much use you are going to get out of it.
Personally I've used all 3 types, and wished I'd just spent the money on a compressor at the beginning.

One thing that I would say is that any wiring to the coolbox should be as big as possible (10mm 75A) - once cables are routed they can be quite long, and the voltage drop can be significant, especially when compressors startup.

Here's some instructions that copied a while ago - not too difficult (after you have done it once)

1) Remove 2 steering column torx screws (same head as the other screws)
2) Remove top cowl only (may not be neccessary) Bottom cowl is clipped at the bottom.
3) Remove right vent
4) Reach through right vent to unscrew plastic trumpet that holds the bottom of instrument panel cowl
5) Remove 3 screws holding in central vents - remove vent
6) Remove 2 screws holding top of panel surround and remove surround.
7) Remove 2 bottom and one top screw of instrument cluster.

I don't think I needed to remove the cowl in step 1 & 2
The "trumpet" in stage 4, is simply a plastic part about 5cm across with a bolt stuck in the thin end - designed so that you can screw it in and out with no direct access.

The bulbs are 286 CAPLESS 12V 1.2W

This year I'm going to try using the aerosol type 220g butane cans, which are cheap and readily available in Europe, and £1 each in Home Bargains ~£4.50/kg
I'll be using them with this Folding Backpacking Camping Stove and this Outdoor Camping Conversion Head Gas Tank Bottle Adaptor Stove Burner Connector

On my 2002 1.9D there is a "engine running" relay, which is fed from the the ECU via F6 (immobiliser fuse).
You could use a tap/piggy back fuse holder to feed the lights relay.

Pretty much the case now for our Euro3 vans in many German cities 

Doesn't actually change the tax class, just the "body shape". It's all a bit odd - they say it's a legal requirement to re-register and then set down a bunch of rules!
The other stuff about it looking like a motorhome, is equally vague.
The only advantage is that you can drive over 60mph, and it makes it easier to insure as a motorhome (which will be cheaper than a van).

Took the stalk apart today, and there was black grease and grit on the contacts, and the sprung copper contact.
Cleaned it all off with IPA and then sprayed with Servisol Super 10. A bit tricky to get back together because you need to push some of the sprung parts with a screwdriver while trying to push the housing back together. But its doable and its fairly obvious where the springs etc go.
Now back in the van working correctly again.

Turns out this has been happening to me also.
Scares the life out of me because I have the bike rack and 2 bikes on the driver side door. So most of the time there is only the single latch at the top of the passenger side door holding the thing together.  With all the weight, if the doors burst open the door with the bikes would end up in the road.

Thanks for the suggestions.  The wear on the rears are pretty even. I must admit that I'm guilty of paying little attention to tyre pressures, other than eyeballing them every so often.
I'll pump them up when I get a moment. Probabaly did them at 36 so maybe 44 would be better.
Another thought was that maybe the brake load balance thing on the back axle could be set incorrectly (i had rear cylinder replaced last year)

If the outlet tubes are blocked, the water will backup straight into the air vent system, and exit at the lowest point. By the time you notice, the foam backed rubber floor will have soaked up 20 littes of water. I had to buy a decent dehumidifer and run it for the best part of week, with the floor lifted with blocks of wood wedged under.

For Peugot you can get the code from Vehicle Charactaristics section on the sevice website http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com so I would expect it to be the same for the Citroen service site http://service.citroen.com
Change the language to English, register, log in, enter your VIN and select Vechicle Characteristics

This is what I get (on the Peugot site)

Vehicle characteristics
TRIM LEVEL     LEVEL 1
PAINT TYPE     NON-METALLIC PAINT
BODY COLOUR     KNP - PAINT IMPERIAL BLUE
INTERIOR TRIM TYPE     ARSINOE "PG" CLOTH
UPHOLSTERY COLOUR     "FL"
GEARBOX (CHARACTERISTICS)     GEARBOX BE4 N
STEERING     POWER STEERING
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE     TACHO TORQUE 22X18