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but it is a 1.9D
The EGR on the 1.9D DW8 is insanely easy to access - it's right at the front unlike the XUDs and HDis
I know "modern" alternators can be "clever" - the aforementioned clutch situation. Maybe it reads the voltage and alters its behaviour accordingly? I dunno, clutching at straws
But if you've potentially found the answer, that's amazing news. If it is the fridge then that's an easy fix
The plate on the fridge says 60watt. I wouldn't have though that would have troubled a 70 - 90 watt alternator?
Quick correction - it'll be a 60 - 90 amp alternator - 70 amps x 14 volts = 980W. Agree with your point that it should be fine
If it goes to scrap maybe it's worth keeping the injectors since they're like new again
I reckon there's nothing to worry about. Compared to our Mk1s your exhaust fumes consist of rainbows and butterflies anyway haha
One option you could try to deduce if the problem is actual electrical demand, or computer trickery is to put an electrical load on the battery directly. Put some jump leads on the battery, and have a load nearby. Maybe a dead battery or something else
1. Connect jump leads (to nothing for now)
2. Do cold start
3. Connect the jump leads to the electrical load
If it stalls, then you know it's not the computer trickery (unless the trickery is reading the battery vltage and acting accordingly)
I don't know if this is a solution, but it might be information I suppose
This is beyond any of my experience, but I know "modern" engines have a clutch on the alternator that (dis)engages the alternator when the battery is fully charged.
Could it be that this clutch is somewhat seized causing extra drag on a cold engine that's just above stall, causing it to stall?
No idea if that's a valid line of investigation, but it's a thought
What measures do you take to try and prevent rust? The underneath of my van looks to be in decent condition, there is a little bit of rust on the sub frame currently and I know it will deteriorate over time.
Haha "prevent"
. Don't buy a van that lived most of its life in the Scottish islands. Now I just deal with it as it becomes a problem
Rust converter is my friend when I want to try to stop things getting worse
There's a load of trox screws holding the door trim on - three big ones in the middle door pocket - look up from below - then a series of them around the edge. Pull the speaker grille off and remove the speakers, there's 2 behind there
Pics is a bit weird on here, but you should see the Uploads link below the message box
I have the opposite problem - it conks out at just under quarter of a tank. Replaced the sender unit in the tank and no change. I think someone's bent the bottom of the tank
Yea common problem. Interestingly with my 806 it helped to get a new key cut, but that doesn't always work
Otherwise it's get new lock barrels, reasonably easy to replace
As soon as I saw 1.6HDi I knew what was coming. Those Ford engines are the exception to the bulletproof Peugeot/Citroen diesel engines and are notorious for turbocharger failure
But it's sorted now (at much expense, I know). The important thing with those engines is to very regularly service the oil
Welcome to the forum! Would be happy to see pics of your new van
As for anyone else spending more than it's worth - that ship sailed for me years ago. I've similarly had a turbo replacement done, and essentially the entire back end rebuilt last year to resolve all the corrosion
Very happy with it. Economical as a daily driver and like you say the perfect size
Mine's not hydraulic, but I used to experience this on mine, that it would crunch into reverse. I changed the clutch cable and that was resolved
You could use one of those short chrome extensions.
Bloody hell I know Mk3s are modern but I didn't know you could install these in them
Interesting choice to use the rear view mirror but actually it makes sense since you can't see out the back anyway!
I mounted my camera similarly - I specifically wanted it to point downwards for a better view on how close I am to things

I mounted the screen above the passenger seat though because I'm generally looking backwards when reversing. I never understood why they're set up to use facing forwards when you're reversing
The bits of tape on the screen represent the corners of the van

I know when I've driven with my rear doors open to carry a load I can smell my exhaust as I'm driving, although my exhaust is particularly pungent
That said, I wouldn't worry about a 3cm hole. Out of the factory our Mk1s have a large pressure vent hole on the rear corner (opposite side to the exhaust)
The exhaust also doesn't extend out past the bumper
When you say creep down, do you mean after multiple presses or on its own without touching it?
The compensator valve only deals with brake fluid so if it was leaking I'd expect you to be losing fluid although I don't know if it has an "early return" on it
Noice. Proper 3 point seat belts and everything! And they match the van
How'd you bolt them into the floor?
The pre-2000 are the only ones that are 100% ECU-free - there's the DW8 and DW8B, with the -B having the electronic advance and the MAF added
The manifold comes off quite easily - two bolts at the front and I think 3 behind the engine. They're deep in there so with an extension bar you'll get them
Once they're out, wiggle it a lot and it'll come out - I think there's rubber seals on the air intake that make it snug

Welcome to the forum - you've given us all the deets but where's the pics
I can't speak for compatibility between Mk2 and Mk3 but I know I got a Mk2 seat in my Mk1 with no adaptations - the floor bolts are exactly the same
Which means that Peugeot 806/Citroen Synergie and I think Peugeot 807/Citroen C8 seats fit too
Sounds odd. I believe the later 1.9Ds have "electronic advance" where the timing of the fuel is slightly adjusted for cold starts. There's a basic ECU somewhere
If not the glow plug control box then that would be my next suggestion
There's likely a better fix, but you have one option of adding a button in your cab that allows you to bypass all the systems and send a feed to the glow plugs
Some bargains here

In seriousness though this one looks the right diameter - 16" wheel but thin tyre is the same as the 14" one my old Dispatch had

I'm assuming - and it's only an assumption - that being a Peugeot wheel the stud pattern will be the same
I never managed to find a replacement that fitted well.
I bought mine from Citroen themselves! Couldn't believe they still sell them

Step 1: Unclip the gator from the dash and invert it.You'll see a little cable tie holding the gator to the bottom of the gear knob

Step 2: With that off, flip the gator back round and retract it to the base
Step 3: Pull the gear knob off the end. Destroy it if you want to. You'll be met with either a plastic cover (like mine) or a square metal one like OAT says

Step 4: Line it up straight and push your new one on the splines

Step 5: Cable tie the gator and reassemble


Sadly in the last 5 years, Citroen have blocked free access to these diagrams. Used to be that you could enter your VIN and it'd give you every part your specific van was made with
Tee_cee posted some alternatives here: https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1029
It's the closest we've got
Sold.
To a good home?