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This does sound quite similar to when my fuel pump gave up the ghost. It would fail to start, then run, then randomly cut out while driving. I also once saw a video that said exactly what you said about the metal in the filter housing = pump on its way out.
Been a while since i had one of these vans but i am thinking the filter housing only has one intake from tank and one exit to pump. If so then no metal shaving will be from pump. Has it got a return pipe? if so it must be direct to tank. Could you be having a pressure issue? Air getting in and the fuel is just returning to the tank making it hard to start and run till pressure builds up.
There is an inlet to the back of the fuel filter housing lid for the leak off pipes, which doesn't involve a return to the tank.
next thing within a week lost all mileage and fuel gauge/water temp readings went to hell..... I spoke to a company (IIRC "AK Speedo",Stirling?) who suggested that I hunt out another binnacle as it sounded as mine was shot to he** and then take it from there..........
I think mine's playing up in a similar fashion. It's got confused before when I'm doing two glow plug warms - I quickly turn the key to ignition, off and back to ignition. Suddenly all the dials - fuel, temp, speed, miles - all turn off. Except the clock - that merrily carries on. Leaving it turned off with the key out for a while normally solves it.
Not today though, it kind of wakes up for a bit, I set off driving, and they all drop out. I see it pop back up for a bit, then off again. The backlight for the miles works, but the numbers don't display.
Sounds similar to yours. You say it's probably new dash time?
It's worth pointing out that at least in the case of the coolant sensor, being unplugged (ie no signal) doesn't make it illuminate.
The oil light could be oil *pressure* - maybe the pump isn't working? Hard to diagnose that though as it's in the sump.
That coolant gauge looks very low - does it reach operating temp after a few minutes?
All this could be ECU issues though, at which point it's anyone's guess.
I know these aren't much use, but hopefully they give some thinking points.
PS: I'm somewhat jealous that all your odometer digits work!
My manual states 205/65/15 as a valid option fwiw
Can't put anything to the sides in the back of mine as I have built in units there. My fridge and stove are where your cylinder is. I might use the porta-potty locker on the nearside for a 3.9 propane though.
Sealing the rear doors is as much for insulation as anything else. I would also either mount a minicat heater on a door or have a minicat cabinet heater up against them. I would also have a side to side worktop over them.
If I go for a cabinet heater the cylinder will be inside it. If wall mounted, it will be in the near side cupboard. With appropriate containment and dropouts of course.
Only for winter as I like to be able to open all six doors in summer and don't need space for the heater or it's extra gas.
Makes sense 
Good idea with the insulation round the cylinder. I was reduced to taking disposable canisters to bed with me last year when my cylinders froze.
Oh that insulation isn't there to keep the bottle warm. In winter the gas bottle gets really cold and I got condensation on the outside of the bucket which left a puddle in the corner. The insulation is to lessen that.
I've definitely had to share a sleeping bag with those butane canisters before. I switch to propane in winter now I have the Calor.
It's a shame the Campingaz ones are so outrageously expensive to refill as I agree, they're the perfect size =/ I have a 4.5kg Butane Calor for the primary bottle, and a 904 Campingaz as my backup spare.
The Calor is strapped to the inside of the van, right in the back corner. I have it in a sealed bucket with a pipe going running outside to the vent near the sliding door. No need to block off the rear doors, it fits reasonably nicely if you raise it up a bit so it sits on the wheel arch.

Hi
i am watching your progress with a keen eye
well done , its looks like it is going to be an excellent van when you are finished
i just wanted to ask you about the C 8 Seats , i have a 2003 Expert
and i stopped at the scrapyard on the way home today
they just took in a Citroen C8 with nice seats
will they go straight in ? or do you have to modify bases etc etc ?
like use the existing base and put the c 8 seat onto that ?
any help would be greatly appreciated
cheers
Dave
Not quite an answer to your question, but maybe relevant
When I swapped out my Dispatch seats for Synergie ones I found there's two parts - there's the seat itself, and a cage underneath the seat that bolts into the floor.
I couldn't swap the seat itself as the bolts were 1 - 2 inches narrower on the Dispatch, but if I took the seat + cage they were a straight swap.
I'm sure you'll be sad to see it go. I assume you thought about adding an extra seat into the rear?
Onwards and upwards. What's next?
Update: I got brave enough/decided I had nothing to lose, and just tried jamming the yellow wire into the green sticky out contact. Nothing. Stuck it into the black one, and suddenly it spun up!
All fixed 
Sounds similar to my issues here: https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … php?id=574
I lost a solar panel to that. I'd set it up to be safe from front-facing 70mph winds, didn't bet on a sidewind scooping it up and ripping out my fittings. Fortunately the manufacturer replaced it under warranty (which is odd but I didn't argue) and I refitted it with velcro holding down the sides so wind couldn't get under the sides.
My Dispatch one has it firmly tied down at all sides.
I suddenly lost the ability to control the blower's speed and have taken a look at the wires to see what's going on.
The fan is working, albeit on very low. If I remove the fuse it shuts off entirely. It is receiving the 14V feed.
I followed the wire from the fan speed control in the centre panel and found it's loose. It has 0-8V depending on what the selected fan speed is. I assume a passenger has accidentally pulled it out.
Where does it belong?

If it's anything like the pre-2007 model it'll have one positive feed, and two negatives. One of the negatives is switched by the door and the other by the manual switch.
Turn it on, figure out which is the +12v wire, and then choose your negative
Great news, I'm always terrified of my Synergie-sourced ones wearing out/breaking as I have no idea where I'd get replacements.
What do you mean when you say "I had to modify three of the seat pegs"?
The Synergies/806 had alloys too sometimes, straight swap. 205/65/15 iirc
I've been pondering my options with heating. For the record Carbon Monoxide isn't a concern *the vast majority of the time*. I have a CO detector with readout and it's at 0 all the time, unless there's something stopping it burning properly. If you go for this do get a CO detector anyway. For a tenner why the hell not.
I have read that there's Nitrogen Dioxide to worry about. Trace amounts that might maybe increase the chances of lung cancer, bronchitis etc. Maybe. I haven't read enough to dismiss the possibility though so I've been looking at diesel vs vented propane.
I've settled on the Propex HS2000 mostly down to electric consumption. Slightly higher running draw, but no glow plug which is the kicker for the diesel heaters.
Need to get brave enough to hit the button, and also figure out where to vent it.
I've insulated my walls and ceiling with that stuff. It's great - no itchiness!
what kind of noise was it making mate ? I was told mine was knackered, it is making a buzz/whining noise, very loud
Yea pretty much that. Came in at ~1700rpm and again at ~2700rpm.
Mine has two of these idler pulleys, one at the top and one at the bottom. I have a manual tensioner though, which seems unusual.
I saw a lot of grease coming out of it, and inspecting it with an allen key I could physically feel the ball bearings. When I removed it I saw why, all the bearings were exposed.
You could try taking the belt off and rotating it by hand. It should turn smoothly, although it won't freewheel if you flick it.
I've taken the top timing belt cover off - the one that covers the fuel pump sprocket - but can't seem to get the damn thing back on. As far I can see the engine mount is in the way, but surely I don't have to take that off.
I don't want to push it too hard as I don't want to disturb the belt.
Anyone know how to get it back on?
Experimenting on a scrap van tells me the answer is yes. Got a good long spanner on it and off it came. Replaced the pulley and now all is well again 
Got a noisy and sticky idler pulley - the one at the top between the PAS pump and the crank. Needs replacing, and quicker if I can do it myself.
Is it just a case of taking a 16mm spanner to it and turning it anticlockwise? I've had a quick go and it's pretty well stuck on, but then it would be after 19 years.
Unless I'm missing something?
Struggling to find it on Google maps. Do you mean this one: https://goo.gl/maps/yh4c8zourUC2
Can confirm it is 100% valid, it's whats on the log book and has worked for a few parts suppliers in the past. Perhaps the Citroen database doesn't recognise the Fiat VIN?
Ah balls yea, I forgot Fiat is a different manufacturer
Yup thats why I said 'That's not to say the oil cooler won't be all good but it definitely doesn't help the chances' (as in, it's unlikely a linked issue but my mind always goes to worst case scenario
)
Yea fair enough. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a 15+ year old van that hasn't had an oil leak though 
ZFA------------12 Thanks
I'm not sure that's a valid VIN. It should start with a VF and be 17 digits. I tried prefixing what you gave with the standard bit but it was too long.
This is sort of what I'm worried about. On all the breaker vans I've checked the rage and noticed "oil leak" in the MOT history. That's not to say the oil cooler won't be all good but it definitely doesn't help the chances
I don't think oil leaking into the coolant would be "oil leak" on the MOT history. Do they even open the coolant reservoir?
and make sure that you get the o ring from between the cooler and the block as sometimes it can stick to the block.
Hmm, didn't notice an O ring on mine, and looking at my pictures from the time it wasn't stuck to the block.

Citroen Service says I should have one though

Ho hum, it's been over a year and all good.
Pretty well all the XUD's and Dw8's have an oil cooler and whilst they are all basically similar there are some differences. The thickness can differ , so if you remove a replacement cooler from a scrap car , make sure you get the central bolt. if you use your old bolt it might be too long and it would then not seal.
Yea I got the bolt off the DW8B one and it was shorter like you say. Even with that though it still spewed oil out because the diameter where it mates with the block was like 4mm wider.