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Well it's in the shop today and I hope he doesn't find too much rot to fix
the failure sheet mentioned a few other place that need attention
figners crossed
You haven't mentioned the front side lights or dash warning light
the fault you describe would suggest they are not working either, but it would help to have this confirmed
Those diagrams look useful, finding anything similar for my Expert is real PITA at times
I'd consider removing the step trim and probing the V12 and V13 cables
in the harness to see
if there is a voltage present when the side lights are switched on.
if there is then the fault is probably down stream
if not upstream
Downstream could be better and easier to fix as it doesn't involve digging under the
dashboard and/or engine bay.
Maybe a previous owner has 'improved it' or fitted a towbar socket and fudged the electrics ?
my diagram for an Expert shows a separate fuse for left and right sides with the number plate light
being supplied from the LH circuit
F12 for the RHS and F13 LHS
the diagram also shows the side light fuses are supplied from the switch
Are the front sidelights working?
If so I doubt it's the fuses or switch at fault but something else like the above mentioned
'owner improvements'
I found this but have no idea if it's at all useful
https://autofuses.online/citroen-jumpy- … relay-box/
Yes, I knew the sill was needing attention and as you say, it could have been a lot worse
the dreaded sub frames etc.
My guy says it isn't that bad and shouldn't be that bad (expensive) to do
There was bit of wittering going on, but on reflection I 'think' the issue was his dipstick probe wouldn't fit
into the tube so he tried to get the oil temp from the ecu and my ecu didn't like being probed by his gizmo
I recall him saying he will order another probe so next time lets hope it all goes smoothly.
Coming up to my first year with this van and
Its taking a while to get the van MOT'd.
1st time I made an appointment and turned up to find the tester has gone off sick
so had to book another date the following Tuesday
I turn up for this one and go for for a walk and when I get back they say it cant be MOT
as the handle of the OS door I sealed up cant be used
It had never occurred to me this was an MOT issue so I made an appointment for the next day and go home and put a plate over the non functional handle
the next day I drop it off and toddle off to the cafe and just as I get me cuppa I get a call from them saying the engine keeps cutting as the try to probe down the dipstick hole for oil temperature
wtf?
Luckily I'm close by and when I get back I find they have some gizmo plugged into the
OBD port to read the oil temp prior to doing an emissions test.
Dont ask me why they cant just read the temp gauge or use a thermometer.
The gizmo must have been interfering with the ECU as the van has never ever cut out on me.
In the end he does the MOT and it fails on the NS sill as I expected and a split drive shaft boot and it's booked in with my local guy to do the work next Wednesday
After that I hope I can go for a retest and get it MOT'd without any further issues.
That looks better if a wee bit yellowish
Is this SVO or are you adding a percentage of diesel?
That reminds me of me old chip pan mate! 
it looks like emulsification to me due to the water content in the tank
I'll admit didn't follow the vid that closely and the OP is pretty vague about what he has exactly and doesn't provide any pics so we can only make guesses.
If it were mine I'd be examining wiring diagrams to determine the possibility of externally hacking it.
Going by the pic just posted, that grey part may be a relay which has power but will only feed the solenoid say on a short internal lead under the armour when enabled by the control unit after a code is input on the panel.
This would make breaking into the box necessary in order to jump the relay.
I'd have it gone anyway even if I had the code cos inputting a code every time you want to nip to the shops
would be a chore and I'd fit a more modern remote alarm system and maybe a hidden switch too.
Just watched the vid and wondered why not tap into the loom, cut the solenoid wire and connect that to a 12v supply?
no need to remove the armour then.
As the van (2006 MK1 Facelift) is due for MOT I checked the lights today and
found the high level brake light wasn't working and one numberplate light was out
The high level brake light was easy.
One 8mm nut inside the door at the top to remove and the assembly
can easily be removed.
Mine didn't even have a bulb in, which was sorted with a BA15 21W indicator bulb
It took me a wee while to figure out how to get at the numberplate bulbs without breaking stuff as is my wont at times.
I found text but no pics on the subject so took some pics while I was at it
each assembly has a fixed hook on the left and a sprung hook on the right
I used a hacksaw blade to get at the sprung hook to start teasing it out.
Once out they have a white socket holding a capless bulb
I fitted some led types I had to hand in both
Thassit! HTH


RE welding
IIRC if you plate it with tack/birdshit welding it will probably fail
but a decent seam weld not hidden by thick black underseal has a better chance of
passing inspection.
Mine has 3 x M6 Countersunk screws with a T30 socket but normal hex screws could be used of course
These M6x16mm HT 10.9 Hex head ones are £2.53 for 5
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183666055465?

As I have the same model I'll take one out tomorrow, measure it and let you know
I assume the HDI being common rail etc expects a consistent viscosity of fuel and therefore it stops it getting too hot?
Common rail DI pumps running at higher pressures tend to impart more heat to the returning fuel
than conventional pumps which lowers its density and viscosity, so the coolers try and compensate for this
by keeping the fuel within an acceptable temperature range.
The higher temps can also have an effect on plastics if not kept within certain bounds.
I read somewhere that 40-50C is an optimum fuel temp for deisel and if it rises significantly above this,
efficiency drops away in relation to the lower density.
I does occur to me that the ECU should be able to alter electronic injector timings to correct for this but
not sure if this is done on these engines or not.
It is a fuel cooler so I'd say it has to be a 2.0 HDI/JTD
Wouldn't a 2005 be post face lift like this one?
This is a pre face lift
Interesting.
I wouldn't use SVO/WVO In my direct injection turbo lump mind you
but I get it, we'd all like cheaper fuel right?
I have experimented with mixing SVO and deisel in previous vans with both direct
and indirect injection and know in a pinch I could use it, but long term
there will probably be consequences of using SVO/WVO in a modern engine.
I've been down the rabbit hole of transesterification, pre heating, filtering,dual fuel, pre heaters etc
but the low time/cost/risk benefits don't look attractive..
For myself who probably only fills the tank 2-3 times a year it's an easier life to just try grin and bear it when filling up.
There's lot of stuff out there but for reference this sums it up
I don't have the wiring diagram for this engine but if the fans are low side switched
((ie permanent voltage to motor and relay between motor and ground)
It's possible the contacts have fused together or being held together by mechanical failure
or have a fixed 12v on the coil side due some other fault.
if i find a diagram I'll post it up.
you may need a better VCI to get codes from the Citroen
I has some probs getting codes with basic stuff, see on this thread
Now I have a Lexia PP2000 thingy too
I installed the software/VMware and have only done some basic tests to read fault codes so far
and none reported.
I could already do this with Delphi/DS150e to be fair so time will tell if it will get further under the hood
and be worth the time, cost and faffing about
I've collected so much various OBD stuff for car and bikes I knocked up a wee box
to keep it all together


2.0 HDI ? well mine starts as soon as I turn the key whatever the weather.
Today I turned the key right to start without waiting for any dash lights to go out and it fired right up
so this and it being direct injection suggests it doesn't rely too much on glow plugs
unless it's really really cold.
I'd probably be checking the tank supply pump and pipework around the filter for leaks
but reading the fault codes should be the first step
What mileage does your have?
BTW I bought that VMware software
some useful stuff but mostly crap and slooooow!
XP ? seriously?
I'd suggest you check and clean the existing ones
IMO Its rarely the cables but the terminals that go bad
Diagrams show these vans have various searth/ground points
The main one near the battery another just in front behind the headlight
One on the driver side near the ECU
in the cab there are points under the dash either side with 2 near the heater motor and fuse box and this is where the heater motor and it controllers get a ground.
A can of contact//switch cleaner and squishing it into any connectors you come across will do no harm either
Alternatively
Refund the money and offer it to the bidders just below who'se bids were close to the winning bid
or just relist it while reporting the non collector to Ebay as a time wasting arsehole 
Send them a registered letter saying the van (goods) are overdue for collection
and becoming a nuisance as you need the space for a new vehicle.
If not collected in good time or fixed date arranged and held to for collection
the good will be disposed of probably by scrap vehicle collection.
The fact they've 'gone dark' works in your favour IMO as you held up your end of the deal and they are at fault
by them making no attempt to communicate with you to arrange collection
This page is not quite the same situation but may help