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Cheers.
And a good guide to fitting them from MRE here :-
https://thefixinglibrary.blogspot.com/2 … rrels.html
edit.... cheers Stu
I think that from a known source and with the required certification they are much of a muchness.
Considering their relative cheapness and their potential importance, I went for a brand I had at least heard off "Ring" and from a large supplier.
I also paid a few quid more for one with a display as I was curious to gauge the effects of my then new propane heater.
They have a limited life. I think 3 years or 10 years. Not sure if that's battery life, exhaustion of some agent used in the detector, or both.
For the little price difference I went for the 10 year one. Now on it's 4/5th year and working well. It did once give a totally false alarm for some reason which I posted about at the time.
I bought a seperate gas alarm but on arrival it requires a constant 12v feed. I haven't used it as I think something likely to be totally neglected until critically needed, should be independently powered.
Plenty on ebay and very cheap, but the quality is very variable and for me, impossible to judge. I suspect many are assembled from reject components. My current ones have lasted a couple of years now though with virtually daily use.
For example (no recommendation of this particular listing)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Car-Festoon-Bu … n_38514089
Another type come mounted on a tiny pcb and usualy have more LED's and so more light.
Thanks Griff but please don't go to the trouble.
I will find an old battery to drain.
After a spill of one of my leisure batteries I have been trying to find some electrolyte to top it up.
It not being urgent I have just been asking at any motor factors as I passed. They just try to sell me some distilled water or battery restoring tablets!
The last two though said it was no longer marketed, one even saying it was "illegal"! Is that so? Collared an AA man today and he. mid thirties age, said he had never topped up a battery in his career. low electrolyte means a new battery.
I can understand there being a lot less demand due to so called sealed batteries, but there are still times when even these can spill.
Available via ebay but only with ridiculous postage from USA.
Any suggestions?
I nave tried many different types of LED lights in my van. None have been perfect.
There may be good ones out there but most if not all of the cheap Chinese stuff is rubbish. But it is cheap enough to use as disposable. Much of it now comes with the required circuity, ready to plug into USB and light up. In various lengths and often sold as TV backlighting. You can also get tape that you can cut to any length
The only tape one I tried didn't last long at all with individual LED's failing after only a week or so. Another thing I wasn't keen on was that the light was very spread out. Most often when I need light I want it stronger and more localized. The tape seems more suited to background light than one to do any work by.
You can find very cheap LED panels or strips for most of the older 12v tube or bulb units (including standard interior lights) with connections that match the old tubes or bulbs. Another advantage of using proper light units is the diffuser takes the edge of the LED glare. Again though they vary in durability from poor to very good, but all are very cheap.
I have recently started using these :-
I have 7 and a 26 LED ones. Lasting well so far. The 26 LED one is rarely used. The seven LED one illuminates whichever end of the van it's pointing towards good enough for reading. The 26 LED one illuminates the whole van very brightly. Rarely needed by me. Like most LED's though they are not comfortable to look directly into so thought is required as to location and direction of the sockets.
As USB charging is available all round the van anyway these will make a cheap flexible lighting system with no extra wiring required. Even available when on hookup if you use a battery charger
Me neither. But I rarely use motorways, or even A roads if possible to avoid.
Set the satnav from one place in the middle of nowhere to another in the back of beyond via the shortest route, and you get some interesting drives.
Have had mine still pulling well through 90, just to see. Seemed so wrong though so I backed off.
Moist wrote:Hi, anyone help?
2012 Expert with curtain airbag in the seat
how the hell do you disconnect the wiring to the airbag in the seat! Fitting swivel seats and need to disconnect to pass through the centre of the swivel
cheers Andy
Are you sure it's the airbag and not just the sensor that detects someone on the seat?
Seatbelt pre-tensioners?
It appears that no one knows!
Got me curious and I couldn't find anything online.
How about searching for specs on the pump part number?
Before you blame the relay, have you tried charging the battery off the van to confirm that it is capable of taking and holding a full charge?
I have always just used off the shelf generic relays myself, usualy from truck garages.
My current van has a branded one fitted but I havn't noticed any advantage.
Is there any?
I know you can get advanced charging/monitoring/management controlers with b to b charging and set priorities etc, but the cheaper, simpler ones just look like a relay in a branded enclosure. Do they do anything more than a simple relay?
Do you all live in Holland?
I never seem to find flat parkups so the tilting floor isn't usualy a problem. I do tend to visit hills and mountains a lot though so can't realy complain. If sloping the "wrong" way, I sleep the other way round.
My fridge is more fussy than I am though so in summer I too do the leveling shuffle and resort to ramps.
I would wait for confirmation but earlier ones are just a friction fit. They need a very strong pull and twist.
Your later model may be different.
If it is just a pull, mind you don"t smack yourself on the nose when it suddenly let's go.
Where abouts do you see the movement, outside or in? Just had a look at mine (98TD) and I couldn't see where the cable went through. Didn't have a torch but couldn't even feel it.
I wouldn't be surprised to see a couple of mm play at the end of the outer though.
If it's the same as mine, they have quite a conplex self adjusting mechanism which can cause intermitent and/or erratic faults when it fails. Mine sometimes lost all tension as if snapped but with gentle pumping could be persuaded to bite again, until the next time. At other times it seemed to loose grip and then grab again half way through travel which gave it a harsh feel. I remember it was a ridiculously expensive cable to replace.
Make sure the balls are smooth, clean and free of corrosion
Sound advice there Zippy.
I don't know much about newer vans either. But what I do know, I don't like!
I can't see anything in them that would be an improvement and lots of things that would be a dissadvantage for my useage. Perhaps improved mpg, but any saving likely to be eaten up by higher servicing costs?
Apart from what seems to be an increasing adoption of planned obselesence and dissposable vehicles, even the basics are impractical for a full time camper. Can you even buy a new van without such "features" as tinted and electric windows, central locking, complex emision controls and a "computer say's no" attitude?
In the longer term I realise that we will all have to move with the times. But I think it will be a long time before any vehicle highly dependent on electronics will match the advantages of a simple diesel for an off grid camper.
Not sure if I am being ambitious or pessimistic but I am hoping my 22 year old van might see me out even if requiring an increasing injection of cash each year.
Aye... the newness has worn of that clutch.
Are those frames curved tee_cee or are they let into the door?
I haven't done the job myself but I think the gearbox difference relates to if it needs to be lifted to engage reverse or not.
There was a thread on it recently.
edit..... https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … hp?id=1199
There are a few others if you search for "gear cables"
Haven't done it myself but apparently its a pain of a job.
Careful appliction of brute force seems to be the way.
Yes it is and yes you can.
On a sunny day it"s like Butlins.
Is it these pipes?
I had a right job finding a garage to do my glow plugs.
I got the impression that their biggest worry was breaking them in the head. With one garage I told them to do it whatever the risk but when I picked it up they had only managed two!
I eventually found a diesel specialist in Keighley who had no problems and did a good job.
Just to address the elephant in the room here though, does anyone else think that if the belt was that tight, it may be stretched and worn enough to ask them to replace it?
Cheers, Griff.
I was wondering this myself. The uncomfortable fact is that we can only guess.
There must be a point where overtightening would cause damage/weakening, but we have no way of knowing where that point is, or if it was exceeded.
If possible I would try to get them to replace it.
But Nobody in Europe is happy with the deal ............
And we are needing it looks like Boris and his team to convince us how great it is...............
(Apart from Boris ...Who is Happy with it ?)
The fish.
There are various universal swivels available but they do tend to be expensive.
You would need to drill them to match your bases.
You would also need to replace the base on the passenger side.
This is the type fitted in my van and on standard bases and work quite well:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Sw … SwKsRebqmW
These look better value:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Universa … Sw1JVaJ~QD
I notice that there are a lot of cheap ones on ebay now that are advertised for boats. They look more suitable for a bar stool to me but might be possible to modify.
Edit...
Be aware of clearance for the hand brake lever and headroom under the overhead shelf. Mine fouls the hand brake which needs to be released to swivel then re-applied. you may have one with a dropping lever which avoids this problem.