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Hi, if you can post the model & serial numbers of the radio, I may be able to help.
Mines was a Clarion PU-2294A
Maybe it is the cable, but on my old 2002 Expert 1.9 the gears disappeared and it was the final linkage to the selector shaft.
Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gear-Link-Ro … 1878849085
The plastic cup bit had disintegrated - not surprising after 15 years.
I do have a Revue Technique manual for the Synergie/806. It is very comprehensive, but of course it is in French and only covers the older 2.1td, 1.9td and 1.9. It does cover very comprehensively the other aspects of the vehicles , clutch, gearbox, brakes suspension and so forth, except the later engines. I could scan it one section at a time if there is any demand. It's several hundred pages so don't expect anything overnight.
If you do decide to scan, I'd recommend using a phone and the Office Lens app by Microsoft. It allows you to take pics of pages at an angle, and it will automatically crop and straighten the edges.
Worth noting that the transponder chips (and rf remote) can be swapped over between flip keys - but not the normal keys.
If you can't do that then you will need cut a new key and have it programmed to the van
Did this the other way round - van came with a fixed ball witter tow bar, I fitted the reversing sensors and they don't pick up the towbar. There was cutout areas where the sensors could be fitted - so I expect that you should be ok.
Hi all,
Just picked up my new van - a 2.0hdi 13 plate Expert former police van.
Anyhow, I've gone to fill it up and can't get the petrol cap off. The key fits in the hole but doesn't rotate.
Is there anything I can do to get the cap off? I've seen videos where people say to drill & I've thought about trying a screwdriver with force...
Tia
Assuming it is the correct key, and the stupid design that scoops up dust and dirt, to deposit into the lock.
I had a problem with my ignition lock - initially it was sticking and took a bit of pushing and turning, until it finally stopped turning altogether.
I ended up putting the key in the lock and giving the end a sharp tap with a rubber mallet. This freed it up, but it was still sticky. So I doused it with switch cleaner (Servisol 10), while shoving the key in and out. Hasn't been a problem since.
Hi all,
I've seen a 2014 Dispatch I'd like to buy which has got a single passenger seat, not the more usual twin. While searching for one to buy I've seen 2 or 3 with singles so it's not a unique oddity. (Maybe the twin was an option that most buyers chose but not all?)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2014-CITREON … 3037074230
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2015-CITROEN … SwAeNcy5gV
Is it a straight swap to remove the single seat and fit the twin? What about the seat belt anchor point(s) and is there any wiring e.g. for pre-tensioners to complicate matters?
Any guidance would be greatly received.
Cheers
Done this the other way round. The double base has the same holes - they use a stud that goes into the floor and and then a nut to secure the base

With the double the (middle) seat pretensioner plugs into a socket that comes up through the floor. In my case I put a fused dummy load across it - more than likely they configure the ecu for the single seat, so you may not be able to have the pretensioner.
The (middle) seatbelt anchor is seperate and bolts onto the driver's seat base.
Hope that helps
Hi Folks
I've a Peugeot Expert Tepee 5 door MPV. I'm looking for a sturdy 2 or 3 bike rack to fit to the rear door. The rigid sort rather than the strappy variety. I've checked with Thule and Fiamma but neither do a bespoke version. Has anyone come across this issue and found a way round it?
Any advice please.
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Thanks
I fitted a Fiamma Carry Bike 200D to my 2002 1.9D. It needed a bit of hacking around to fit - but I did get it on. I did find a pic of it fitted to Jumpy, so its possible.
When I fitted mine, I filled the insides around the window with expanding foam to stiffen it up.
The other alternative would be a towbar mounted rack like the Atera DL2/3 which can slide back to allow the doors to open.
We used the van a lot for extended trips, so comfort, amenity and reliability is important. The old van did very well, over the last 6 years, and we felt we had the value out of it. With maintenance and depreciation, it cost less than £5 a night and we covered 60,000 miles. So if we upgraded, I thought we could spend a bit more money since the old one was cheap. Time will tell if it was the right move. Regarding the professional conversions - all the ones I've seen are designed to look good, with very little thought given to space saving. Hence the decision to do the conversion myself.
The old van was looking a bit shabby on the outside, which I'm ok with - but I could see that that would set a ceiling on the added value of the conversion. Seeing as most people go for simple & cheap, I reckoned that the bits I took off were of more value to me. So I stripped everything out, and sold it as a partial conversion - carpet lining, swivels seats, leisure battery with charging, tinted sliding windows, curtains and blinds.
As it turned out I was only able to reuse 4 bits of the wood, all the rest had to be recut and profiled. However the basic design was there - and last time it took almost as long to sort that out as build it. The 12V/5V fuse board was easy to do, and everything worked as before. Costwise, the lightweight ply, bed, fridge & solar controller saved about £1300.
Sizewise, it's a bit longer, 45cm inc towbar (very noticable in car parks). This means that I get a bit extra vertical space behind the bed to use, and a little extra space behind the seats which allowed my to fit one of the leisure batteries. The biggest difference is the extra internal width at the ceiling - makes the inside almost seem roomy, although I've lost a couple of cm of headspace.
The old van was perfect for our purposes and at the time I thought after 6 years that we would probably move on to a larger more comfortable motorhome. So I now think we have have another 5 years doing the same stuff, so I wanted to fix some of the small niggles, and do some upgrades. So the ATV will give a liitle bit help on dirt tracks, air con and 130bhp to get over the alpine passes. Also now have sietz windows with blinds and flyscreen that can be opened in light rain, 2 x 95AH batteies (was 1 x 72AH) and 160W solar (was 100W), and underslung waste & fresh water tanks. Gone is the old grey carpet - now beige, to stop mosquitoes hiding.
One thing I know is it's the last conversion I will do myself - took the best part of 3 months, and I've had enough.
Don't know about mpg yet, trying to figure out how all the Euro5 trickery is supposed to work first.
Am I wrong in thinking you can download PP2000............ It's the equipment to run it on the vehicle that can be (chinese) Sketchy............
As I've been thinking same but for Scanner
Link I've got:
http://blog.uobdii.com/free-download-di … n-scanner/
The Chinese stuff can be a little less than advertised, as I have just found out - my hardware does not want to talk with my 2015 injection ECU. I think the general advice is to buy a "full chip" interface £100+ rather than the £35 eBay versions
Well I managed a find an ATV and set about moving the old conversion into the new van.
So here's the result.











Thanks for the links. If the wiring to the stalk is disconnected and the lights are still on as mentioned in my first post then surely I shouldn't need to start stripping down the switch?? I will take the front dash panel off later and have a good look. I should have mentioned that a while back the drain tubes in the bulkhead were partially blocked, a 2 minute job that got never got done till the tidal wave bathed the fuse box and filled the heater motor and the footwells up. I did dry it all up and everything still worked ok.
Regards Den
What happens when you pull each fuse?
Also, with the stalk disconnected, did you check that the other lights etc. don't work just to make sure.
Looking at the circuit diagrams, there is no relay - the switching is only in the stalk.
There are two 5A orange fuses at the glovebox
F4 for front left and rear right (and headlight adjustment)
F9 for front right and rear left (and number plate)
Since all the lights are on the fault must between the fusebox and stalk
I'd be looking at dismantling the stalk and cleaning it. It's not too difficult if you take it slowly.
The diagrams are here https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … php?id=279
Section 26 page 82/83 - the front sidelights are 2620 2625 and rears are 2630 2635
Well done. It's nice to be able to tell people that there's progress after all the hard work.
Use these type of step down devices before https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Car-Vo … 3844654680
For the dash the Neutrik USB sockets are nice https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neutrik-USB- … 1834560554 and the rubber cover finishes off the look https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neutrik-SCD- … 2457220551
Looks a decent festival T. I can never book anything too far in advance but will definitely consider this as things pan out.
It's festivals that got me on the road in the first place. Totally different occasions back then of course:-
How on earth could Mungo Jerry headline over Van der Graff?
If you don't mind me asking, how much did the van cost?
Had this happened on my 2002 on a road trip to Spain. It was item no2 on the second diagram. The ball joint socket is plastic and just fell to bits - and disapeared. The garage I went too said that you could just use a tie wrap to hold it in place - I went for the new one. Anyway it's impossible to get at this without getting it up on a ramp.
Search ebay for (Peugeot Expert, Citroen Dispatch, breaking) and message the sellers, with a pic.
C8, Synergie, 806, 807, Ulysee - all will fit, though you may need to ream some of the base holes out a bit.
However finding these seats is difficult, and all you will see is high prices & very poor quality.
The single passenger seat can be difficult to get but there are a couple on ebay at the moment
Think carefully about how many swivel seats you need. In my old conversion the passenger seat was never turned.
Another option is to get a swivel plate purpose made for this Fasp 1305.5131.DX or SX - expect to pay £120 delivered, Though I do know of someone who is selling a passenger plate for £75 plus postage.
How about Seitz S4 top opening windows with blind and fly screen - not very wallet friendly, but great for ventilation, keeping open in light rain.
If you think you need a sticker for Germany , TUV will do them by post for €15+
However it turns out that Berlin city will issue them for the princely sum of €6 delivered.
https://www.berlin.de/labo/mobilitaet/k … 595.en.php
Arrived within the week
Note that you need to be at least Euro 4 for a green sticker - the red/yellow stickers are of no use