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The thing is the way lockdown etc is going bud, eberyone and their granny is doing campervanning in some way shape or form, or expecting to.... so the quiet places I know I'm afraid I'm gonna keep to my self, as I'm sure will many others - Maybe we can get a private forum or something going for that, dunno if mods could do a subforum or something maybe? or may be too much work for them, but keep the places off social media and public forums! 
Cheers.
And a good guide to fitting them from MRE here :-
You need to remove the nd from the end of https://thefixinglibrary.blogspot.com/2 … rrels.html for the link to work, fyi :-P 
Nice, what happens with the code/immobiliser side? Although I've bypassed my start solenoid wiring so it comes on with the ignition (12v reverse switch lol) so maybe immo does not work anyway? I've only got 1 key for mines so something like this would be good.
I run phillips racing vision bulbs in my van, made a big difference and not blinding people like bodged/illegal HID does.
Edit: I'm sure the requirement is they need to be self levelling and have a cleaning mechanism, I know alot of MOT places will let it go but the traffics/vosa won't if you're bilnding them and/or have an accident because you've blinded the folk coming towards you.
Nearly every car with bodged HID gets a full on make sure they seen it w4nker hand gesture, especially if they have needlessly blinded me! :-P
Well I ended up cutting the old CV in half with the angle grinder, just inside the ABS ring, took some time but was not to painfull
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … /929/2.jpgThe clip was deformed, would never have been able to slide that off.
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/foru … /929/6.jpgI went back to the box after reading the comments and found a new spring clip included, hurray!
Was expecting to have to order new clips from Peugeot and not get this done until end of the week..Splines on the shaft was fine, just needed a good clean.
So one side is now done, just the other to go.
Just to reaffirm, just counted the splines on the one I marked for JR, they must have sent me 4 shafts and CV's by the time they got it right - "Be careful if using CV joints or shafts from JR driveshafts, you need to make sure its a 27 spline CV or it will not fit into the hub properly and or at the gearbox end, when driving you'll hear a clicking noise as the CV is not seated correctly due to the splines".
Jesus that's rough, I managed to knock mines off with a mallett without an issue! - Be careful if using CV joints or shafts from JR driveshafts, you need to make sure its a 27 spline CV or it will not fit into the hub properly and or at the gearbox end, when driving you'll hear a clicking noise as the CV is not seated correctly due to the splines.
The whole while I've had my dispatch the temp gauge has never went past 70 driving, but if I let it idle it will get up to half way...anyway its been about a year since I changed the senor in the expansion tank and the one down near the fuel filter, tonight I found when out for a run that the gauge decided to run all the way up to maximum heat and I was given the stop sign on the dash... as soon as I turned the heater up the gauge dropped, but then continued to fluctuate from cold to fully hot all the way home.
On getting home I find its runnning the cooling fan (I'd only done 7 miles) Radiator not hot to the touch, top hose warm, bottom house cold-ish (Always been like that even with a new thermostat), pop top off coolant bottle and the level looks OK - Could this be the sender at the diesel pump and/or the level indicator in the bottle/expansion tank? I'd have had expected to get more than a year and 3k miles out them, hence my asking.
Thanks,
-Stu.
When I removed mines I think it was just 4 normal 10mm bolts, about 15-20mm long, they may have been 12mm but I do remember thinking they were quite small given the weight of the cage/ladder thing - Hope that helps 4 months later lol.
Hmm, On mines after i rebuilt the CV's after 4 weeks of back and forth with the driveshaft/CV lot, I torqued to about 160, put the cap on the nut and the secure/split pin, not had a problem since, you sure you need that much torque? Indeed I think I treated it like a Mk4 golf 1st which is what caused me the hub/cv etc problems lol.
Paying more money for the extra weight (glass) imho...but aircon would be nice, and a turbo... hmm lol

They line right up the inner on the underside pf the sills, I got away with cuttng out just the front bits and replacing/welding in some new 1.2mm steel.
This soul destroyingly slow van, which at the worst of times when you need something to work, especially as a camper.... it sbeen a great bus/home/haven on the whole 3 trips it's had in the almost 2 years that I've owned it...
Anyway, now the rants out the way, is it the fuel advance solenoid that makes it lose it's pep? I've done the injectors, cable, egr etc etc, but now running out of ideas...unless its related to ECU reading coolant temp? It never seems to get to half way, replaced everything related to it, including belt and water pump, thermo, etc etc, still the same lol.
..running out of ideas.
Best,
-Stu.
Indeed or make sure no cables/hoses fouling the linkages, and give the nubs on each linkage a good skoosh with fuchs or some ptfe spray, including under the gear lever (oull off the fake leather housing) .... worth a check. 
-Stu
But cannot help my self, so while it was broken i carried on, managed to get 10 meters of 4mm double aluminium insulation, so bodged it in somewhat.
Meanwhile the resonator on the standard intake pipe broke off do I did this as a temporary fix lol...

Still got more to do to it and these are just some of the pics... for a cheap van it's been an epic mission so far, at least it now has an MOT but many more things to still sort lol.
Mate I'm not positive on the turbo ones but on my non turbo (Lucas system) I had and do have similar issues but it seems to start on the button since manually replacing and wiring a 12v feed to the fuel stop solenoid from the 12v reverse feed on gearbox, possibly not lift pump related at all? Does also ring a bell of an immobiliser issue to me.
Best,
-Stu
Anyone have a cheap one of these for a lucas system non turbo DW8? or do you know if I can just pull the top hat off it, or disconnect the feed to it? 
-STu
If I can sort the cooling and pish fuel economy of my one I may keep it since there really is not that many left on the road, therefore if one of these events happens again and I still have it (all based on getting the cooling/fuelling right) then It'd be great to come to an event like this. 
-Stu
Christ wish I'd seen this, for that money I'd of had it lol - These are slow as fk but the build quality is not too bad, I kind of like them all be they challenging at times. 
Wow, sorry to hear this bud... did a driveshaft let go or something? sounds quite catastrophic?!
I've been battling cooling issues with mines which leads to terrible fuel economy (18mpg if i'm lucky and lucky to get to 60mph), i turns out the thermostat in it was a circoli and was maybe like 2mm too small in diameter, the other defining difference is the rubber ring seal has a slit in it so that it fit over the outer edge of the thermostat, anyway I tried the cheap circoli and normal ring seal (no slit to fit over thermostat outer) and sealed the whole housing up with some train grade sealant lol, anyway, engine would still not go past 70c (this included a new sensor on thermostat) I think the coolant was blowing past the thermostat I installed, today I installed a Quinton Hazel thermostat that had the correct rubber ring seal and this fitted perfectly in to the thermostat housing once fitted around the thermostat...
But I now have the issue you have where coolant is purging while I'm trying to bleed the radiator. Dillemma... I did try driving it this time round instead of bleeding it in a parking space, maybe that was the wrong thing to do? I'll try it the other way tomorrow and will report back if purge and/or if manage to keep at 90c.
-Stu
How do you wire them in?
Hi Bud, just like anything else, red to positive black/white to negative, only needs wired from one side, you can cut off each LED and wire each from one side if need be. 
Also usage report on the cheap remote dimmer, it has all sorts of silly flashing modes but works fine, turns out if it stops working you just press the speed + and - on the remote which retunes it to a new radio signal. 
Best,
-Stu
Hi guys, sorry for the long time posting, got pissed off with it and almost scrapped it, but I'm just a drive shaft and a driverside wishbone with new ball joint away from using it again after welding sills etc etc.
It may be slow and need twek timing wise with the fuel economy, but I've invested so much time in this "cheap camper/bike van" that I'll need to keep it and MOT it on the 21st of September...it ain't no Caddy but will do for now. 
Edit: Aside of mechanical I've been sorting carpet, bubble/alloy insulation, 12v LED's, split charge, side vents etc etc, will eventually show pics, usually too busy with work and trying to do things to van and etc etc etc don;t always take pics, I can perhaps show some of the driveshaft etc fails after thinking i can change a boot and then get a hand full of needle bearings etc etc etc lol.
-Stu
Runs great ish, but still getting terrible fuel economy, random rev surge when starting etc, tried different grades of diesel, no difference, seems to be overheating at times but no sign of HG failure, have freed the brakes off etc etc, i did read disconnecting the vac for egr can help with this? - I mean I think I've done something silly like 840 miles to £180 of diesel, so somethings clearly not right. All it needs is some basic tlc possibly but might just scrap come end of MOT date, been offered £220 lol
So much for a 'cheaper than a b&b' get about the UK vehicle lol.
Stu-D wrote:All fixed, got a used starter from scrappy, it literally fired up on the 3rd revolution!
FFS Starter
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Where did you go SCB? Do you still have that one up at Camps Ind Est? Got back doors with glass for my last Expert from there a few years back. Seemed keenly priced at £50
Hi bud, I rarely go to SCB these days as their prices are terrible, not sure of a breakers at camps, used to be one up greendykes in Broxburn if that's where you mean maybe? - I ended up at Jocky Campbells in Bathgate/Armadale as things are usually free, £1 or £20 for things like starter motors.
- They do have a 04 plate expert in just now but not much left of it to be honest.
Stu-D wrote:Yes bud, I've got this £3 dimmer coming, if it ever comes lol - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Inline-M … 2793182284
That is the first one i bought. Filed that under B for bin as it never worked. Ended up with this one, bulky but works well
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-24v-8a-p … d8af4fb62e
However......... Just seen this so may swap it
Thanks bud, if this one is as crap as the price would suggest I'll grab one of those - I'm chuffed, managed to get van to start tonight so my august time off is not going to be totally wasted! 