You are not logged in.
Citroen 2cv's don't have anti roll bars, they go round corners on their door handles as we all know. The heavier Ami ( same engine + chassis) does have an ARB it's a heavier car it rolls more violently. Likewise Citroen Saxo's , the little 950's and 1100's don't have them The heavier diesels and sporty petrols do have one. When a car rolls the weight is transferred onto the outer wheels whilst the inner wheel is nearly off the ground.... The more weight on the wheel the more the side slip and so the more understeer. The anti roll bar keeps both wheels in more even contact with the road and therefore understeer is reduced.. Presumably the vehicle in question is a1.9 rather than any of the more powerful options so the vehicle maker doesn't consider understeer to be an issue. If the manufacturer doesn't fit one then the MOT tester has just overstepped himself.
So are you saying that they don't lock on the central locking , or that they won't lock even if you operate the little pawl inside the door. One would probably be an electrical fault, the other an issue with the actual lock mechanism.
If you look at the top blue van and the bottom white van, you can see that one has the stretch panel in front of the door, the other behind it, so there are 2 options. Never imported to the Uk as maybe they are ' special build' as quite possibly the stretch vans wouldn't fit on the regular production line and so are built somewhere else. It's also possible that they don't have the facility to do RHD on the special production line. Would love one though.
If you say " no diesel to injectors" then it must be a 1.9 , cos the 2.0 is common rail. A common reason for non running on the 1.9 is the fuel cut off solenoid , now hidden under a difficult to remove security cover.
you should hear it click when you put the ignition on.
The other end of the speedo cable goes into a drive unit very close to where the O/S driveshaft goes into the gearbox.
Herein lies the problem. OBD/EOBD is a protocol agreed originally in the USA , previous to this every manufacturer used a different plug and different software to access the engines running data. Cue the yanks . " Right if you want to sell cars here , it has to comply with this standard spec OBD " Never slow to miss on a good idea Europe rapidly followed suit hence the OBD and EOBD. However there is still lots of info not covered by the protocol which you need manufacturer specific software to access. Lexia etc. I have a virus laden cracked copy of Lexia . My mate is in a garage with multi vehicle diagnostic machine , a bargain at £3.5k plus £100 a month for upgrades. Which explains why garages charge a lot for diagnostics.
The valve isn't supposed to move when you press the pedal. The idea is to cut the pressure to the rear brakes when the van is lightly loaded, to stop the brakes locking. When the van is laden ( rear suspension lower) more pressure is allowed to the brakes. Give the valve a good lube and wire brush every service / time you are underneath.
So what engine do you have? The 1.9 and the 2.0 have totally different injection systems. You might want to do a few checks before you start changing pumps. On 2.0 need to be coded in.
Guys Guys, that location for a sensor on the gearbox is for the speedometer, it drives off a skew gear that goes over the o/s driveshaft (#1). The revcounter reads off a sensor fitted in the clutch housing that measures crankshaft rotation ( brown plug?) I know it says tachometer , but that just means rotations , .... in this case wheel rotations.
Do this at your own risk! Careful! ( but it works.)
Get a length of hosepipe .
Place one end in or near your ear.
Move the other end close to each pulley or idler in the axuxiliary belt set up, with the engine running . As the sound of the other idlers is isolated , the loud whirring associated with a worn pulley or idler bearing is easy to identify.
Certainly the 1.9 has a small idler near the crank , that is about 30mm diameter , as the crank pulley is 4 or 5 " diameter , it must rotate at several times the engine speed, it could easily be rotating at 10,000 rpm if the engine is doing 3 or 4k rpm's, is it any wonder they whirr after 10 years or more......
I would agree with the other replies, get your tracking checked, it can make a vehicle feel most odd. Also the tyre pressures affect the handling. Just consider the following a Citroen 2Cv .... tyre pressures front 20 rear 25. Odd you think all the weight is over the front, 2 people can pick up the rear of a 2Cv, wheras the engine is over the front wheels, so why is the front pressur lower than the rear? The answer is that 2CV's under steer frantiaclly so the pressures are set up that the rear tyres are almost domed , so only the middle touches the road. This makes the handling more neutral.
Have a look at the lower engine mounting . If worn this can allow the engine to move too much , giving just the symptoms you describe........ the part is cheap , but fitting is a pain.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-CITR … #vi-ilComp
On the older XUD engines you just locked up the pulleys and crank. If the head is skimmed the timing ends up retarded . On the later engines there are floating pulleys, where the cam and pump are locked , but the pulleys float on the cam or pump being fixed by locking up 3 bolts when the tension is correct. That way the timing can be perfect rather than to the nearest tooth. However it's also very easy for an incompetant mechanic to completely fu.... make a mess of it. Its important that the belt is fitted to the pulleys so that the bolt isin the middle of the adjustment zone , rather than at the end. Quite difficult to explain actually , easier to see whilst you are doing it . For sure either the pump or cam timing is retarded. So do you take it back, or find someone else to do it properly?
A blowing head gasket, a worrying phrase, but what are the implications really. There are 3 systems in a cylinder head combustion , cooling and Lubrication. The lubrication system runs from 0-45psi. The cooling system runs from 0-15psi and the Combustion system which runs from between an almost perfect vacuum to about 800 psi. The chances are then that any leakage isn't going to be of the water into oil , but compression pressure into the cooling system , which surrounds the combustion chambers in the head, there is only one oilway so the combustion pressure isn't likely to leak into the oil. The likelyhood is that the anti freeze has been left until it no longer provides corrosion inhibition at some time in the past. this results in slight corrosion of the gasket and a tiny leakage of pressure into the cooling circuit. It will probably run for a very long time, and then fail at the worst possibile time eventually ( mine did!) You could try a product like 'steel seal' which could well make a permanant repair of an engine with only a minor loss of pressure
Buying vans , eh? I'm still ( sort of ) looking for one, even after I bought one......... I won the auction and emailed the owner about picking me up from the station , what days might be convenient to come etc. I received an email back saying that someone had knocked the door an hour before the auction ended saying " well no one has bid on it, so sell it me cheap." He took it away for £500 less than I had bid for cash on the doorstep. I tried to explain about not bidding until just before the end of the auction so as not to show your hand and all that , but a bit late really after they have just lost about 1/2 the price of the van.......
I'm still looking........
The engine runs with about 40psi oil pressure, the light should come on at around 5-7 psi. If there actually was no oil pressure you wouldnt get to the end of the road until the cam siezed or the big ends went . ( anyone ever owned an old British bike?). The chance of 2 seperate sensor circuits failing independantly all at the same time is very unlikely. So most likely is that one fault is affecting both circuits. Check that the wiring isn't chafed or shorted onto the engine somewhere, or a bad earth somewhere. The oil switch lights up the light by going short to earth , so if you remove the wire from the sensor the light should go off. Low reading on the temp suggests a partial short to earth somewhere. Could also be ecu area fault or a fault at the display end.
There is a transistory thing in the bottom of the heater motor .
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SmartSense-H … SwLlJa6x6z
When Berlingo/ Xantia/ Xsara etc heaters pack up , changing the ' resistor' ( it's actually semiconductors) does the job in 99% of cases. Not the same component , but does the same job in a dispatch. There's a good chance it will be a fix.
In the other models , berlingo etc, after taking it apart the motor will run at full speed with leads on it , but not through the ' resistor'. Resistor is faulty.
The heater resistor ( its actually got 2 transistory things on it ) do go, they can be had on ebay cheapish. The same part fits several models of that age group . Xantia, xsara, picasso etc etc.
Yep , pretty much. Jack under the sump. The 2 parts lock into one another , pia really.
Pretty well all the XUD's and Dw8's have an oil cooler and whilst they are all basically similar there are some differences. The thickness can differ , so if you remove a replacement cooler from a scrap car , make sure you get the central bolt and make sure that you get the o ring from between the cooler and the block as sometimes it can stick to the block. if you use your old bolt it might be too long and it would then not seal. The block is an identical casting with the xud so pretty much any cooler will fit. They can fail, the classic problem being that oil fills up the cooling system. They are either ally or stainless, a bit of rust shouldn't be a problem.
I passed you, parked up in a layby facing west, on the Llangurig road on Tuesday night about dusk.
These screw type self adjusters are not great engineering. They will not take up if there is a lot of adjustment needed. If you are dexterous , you can adjust the little wheel through one of the wheelnut holes. You need a small screwdriver and a small torch ( pen torch) to see down the wheelnut hole. From memory the nut needs to move down to tighten it, after a while it will start to come back into range. It's better to do this than drop the drums off as there is usually a ridge caused by the shoes wearing the drum, which stops you getting the drum off easily. All in all it's a pain to do.
Is your vehicle an ex disability conversion? I had a Kangoo once that had electrically operated jacks which pulled the back suspension down to make loading a wheel chair an easier job. It could well be something left over from something like that.....It looks like the pump has gone.
If the handbrake is good and the footbrake is poor then it has to be a problem with the rear wheel cylinders . Siezed? Leaking? Is there a pressure valve on the rear axle? It could be siezed up also.
You really need to replace this pulley as soon as possible. It has gone beyond the point of failure. You would need to lock the crank and undo the crankpulley bolt , these are very tight indeed and you would struggle on ramps. They are tight to undo even with the vehicle up in the air. Make sure you get a proper good quality damper, there are some nasty cheap pattern parts that dont have the rubber damper, just an o ring laid in a groove to make it look like there is a damper! So Eurospares / GSF , a proper one is about £80 ish , if it's too cheap it won't have a damper, quite possibly.